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Here are about twenty problems or questions posed by the do-it-yourselfers concerning their chimney.

How to properly renovate a chimney?

How to put a chimney to norms? The chimney sweep refuses to sweep it.

The question lacks precision. If a chimney sweeper refuses to sweep your pipe, it is because he thinks that his condition is too degraded for the intended use. Many chimney sweeps refuse to intervene today on a led in bushels of fiber cement before 1997 and therefore containing a certain proportion of asbestos. The simplest solution for securing an old conduit is to to make tuber.

How to recover heat from a flue?

Is it possible to recover the heat from the flue of a wood stove by putting over a larger diameter casing to recover the heat? Are there risks?

A flue emits calories that it is possible to recover. The idea is interesting in principle, but difficult to implement safely, and with a return that is likely to be bad enough. It should be noted that there are systems of heat recovery to redirect it to other rooms in the house, in the form of a housing with motorized exchanger, to be placed just above the ceiling, particularly effective.

Do we have to pipe a chimney?

I use a cement bush chimney for a wood stove with a good seal. Is there a legal requirement to pipe this conduit or can I continue to use it as is? cordially

The casing of a flue is not mandatory for open fireplaces, if the conduit is in good condition and therefore waterproof.
On the other hand, given the constraints of the DTU (Unified Technical Document) 24-1, casing is the rule with the wood burning stoves, the inserts where the closed hearths now high efficiency (> 70 \%), because of the very high temperature of the fumes of these devices. In this case, remember that the casing must be continuous, from the exit of the device to the exit of roof.

Add a second duct into an existing chimney

That's it, I have an open stone fireplace with bread oven that I use frequently. I want to add a wood stove for heating. Is it possible to use the same flue?

In general, two heaters must never be connected directly to a single duct. It is possible, however, to to pass two casings in the same conduit masonry but under certain conditions defined by the DTU (Unified Technical Document):
Thus, the passage of several tubes in the same individual flue masonry under the conditions, imposed below, defined by the DTU 24.1:
"It is allowed the passage of several tubes in the same individual mason chimney under the following conditions:
- each tube can serve only one device.
- The tubes must serve appliances situated at the same level and in the same room or in two rooms communicating through a permanent opening of at least 0.40 m, prohibiting any differences in pressure or low pressure in the said rooms.
- Tubes can serve any appliance except hearths, appliances with open fireplaces, fuel inserts
- The set of tubes made must be of the same nature (example: stainless steel) without being the same shade.
- The tubes may be flexible or rigid ".

Support an existing chimney

I wanted to remove an existing chimney equipped with an old insert that falls into ruin, to replace it all with a stove, but when we broke the hood, we realized that the conduit was built in "hard" and was based on the floor of the house... So to remove the duct that is "in" the house, we must support the upper part of the duct which is in the attic and on the roof beforehand otherwise we will fall on it! What do you advise me for that?

If the duct is leaned against a solid wall: stones, bricks, blocks... it is possible to seal metal anchors in the wall (harp), which will support the part of the duct preserved. A "hard" pipe, often made of earthenware bush or concrete being very heavy, the anchorage must be calculated accordingly.
Another solution is to remove the entire duct, to keep only the chimney outlet, and replace it with a stainless steel tube. This casing will be moreover safer, given the high temperatures of the combustion fumes produced by the stoves and inserts. In any case, even if you manage to secure the support of your bush in bushel, you will have to tap it to use it.

Treat brown spots on a chimney

Brown spots appeared on the first floor bathroom. The chimney flue starts in the kitchen on the ground floor and goes up to the attic through the bathroom. I decapé the gray / brown part until reaching the bricks that constitute the chimney.Les bricks are good.Y has just a crack in lateral.Apres to have well scraped with which product I can reseal? Need a special mortar? Are there products in the trade? I specify that the "hat" of the chimney fell last winter because of a storm. So the rain came inside which caused the stains. Of course I will put the hat back this summer. and also after a solid repair of the duct at the height of the bathroom I will pipe the duct in stainless steel. but for the moment I wonder what product to put that is very strong and especially well sealed to fumes. The stove is powerful. Thank you in advance…!!!

The brown spots you describe are dark spots. They can be related to the penetrations of water which caused a migration of the soot and the tar contained in the conduit. But the bistre is mostly related to a phenomenon of condensation between the inside of the duct hotter than the wall of your bathroom.
Your duct must be cased. It will no longer have a direct technical role and can be repaired with plaster, surfacing coatings, etc. This being so, to neutralize the spots of bistres, it is imperative to apply a painting called "mate without tension", before application of one or two classic topcoats.

What is the minimum distance between a chimney flue and the underside of a static extractor?

Could you tell me if there is a standard regarding the minimum distance between the flue (tube outlet) and the bottom of the static extractor. In my case, the distance is about 3 cm, which causes an accumulation of bistre under the hat. Obviously the roofer does not want to hear anything, pretending he is up to standard. I peeled DTU 24.1 and found nothing. I specify that the extractor is Sebico type

If I am not mistaken, there is no standard to my knowledge. This does not preclude a logical implementation, and a distance of 3 cm between the exit of the tube and the underside of the extractor is an aggravating cause of formation of bistre which could be considered as a workmanship by an expert. This situation is fairly easy to correct, but the roofer must accept the limit of the editing done.

Time to commission a chimney

How long do I wait after building an interior chimney to use my woodstove to heat the whole house?

If your pipe is in bushels, it is good to wait 3 weeks before using it. But a stove is normally cased up to the roof exit. The casing constitutes a protection of the duct. Set up by a professional as it must always be the case, to be in agreement with the standards, it can be used as soon as it is put into service. Do not forget that sweeping twice a year is required for wood heating (only once for gas heating).

Choosing between an duct "efficiency" of Poujoulat or a front air intake

For a BBC construction, I hesitate between the conduit "efficiency" Poujoulat and an outdoor air intake in front for a log stove. Do you have a price order of this system?

The "Efficiency TP3E" system from Poujoulat, detailed on our website, is an excellent and recently awarded system (2011 Batimat Innovation Gold Medal). Thanks to a triple wall it allows the arrival of fresh air and the evacuation of the fumes by one and the same conduit, bringing a real advantage of safety compared to a simple arrival of fresh air on the facade, whose management does not can be modulated. It is not possible to encrypt your project without being on site.
The company Poujoulat can certainly make this study without commitment on your part: [email protected]

Should a chimney pipe be cased over its entire length?

We installed in our house in December 2008 a steatite wood stove (which must transmit heat for 12 hours while the fireplace is extinguished but does not do so). we have encountered several problems with since. During the installation, the craftsman told us that the old chimney we were going to use was not very big, and that the casing was going to be complicated, contrary to what he had told us during the quote.. The solution found by his care was not to tuber until the top, ie it is missing about 2 meters of tube to reach the top of the chimney. No worries since except this year, when when you open the insert there is a good amount of smoke that comes into the house but also a lot of soot, liquid and solid that does not fall into the tube but well and truly in the house.by looking closer I see that the plate installed at the top of the stove is too short of a centimeter, and so I suppose that the soot coming from the top of the chimney falls out of the casing, and so then in my salon since the plaque is too short. so my questions are: -I suppose that the soot falling out of the casing could build up and eventually become a fire hazard, then I ask that the casing be done to the top, and this can it to be done with the ten-year guarantee? the plate too short must it be changed?

The installation of a flue is highly regulated and must comply with DTU 24.1 and 24.2. The regulations clearly state that the tubing of a duct must be continuous from the heater to the roof exit.

In principle, the remedies against your installer should have been exercised in the year of installation. Nevertheless, the non-conformity of the installation engages in my sense its responsibility without limitation of duration. Try to find an amicable solution and if this is not possible, send him a registered letter with AR asking him to put his installation into compliance, stipulating that the conduit is not up to standard and that if an accident occurs (asphyxiation or fire) its civil and criminal liability will be incurred. This is likely to make him react. If this is not the case, assign it to the District Court (it's free, and you do not need to have a lawyer). Also inform the manufacturer that stove that this installer is not complying with the regulations...

Connecting a chimney flue with reduction

I own a Rustica wood stove whose diameter of connection to the duct is greater than the size of the duct itself (150 minutes for a duct of about 140) what to do? Is it possible and legal to install a reducer to make installation possible?

Ready-to-install kits have been specially designed to solve this type of problem.

The flue casing is strongly recommended when installing a new heater to ensure a good draft and ensure safety and durability.

This assembly operation will of course have to be done by a professional.

Enlarge a chimney

We are renovating a house we bought in early June. We are on a living room that we have laid bare in order to redo window (all the house too), insulation and electricity. In short, we want to install a wood stove. The conduit of the old chimney allows to pass a conduit of 180mm. Is it possible to enlarge this duct to have a stove with a larger capacity?

Only a professional who will come on site will be able to judge the feasibility of this project by respecting all the necessary standards (NF DTU 24.1).

Be aware that after careful examination of the existing duct, the professional will be able to propose a solution of casing in order to put your duct to the Norms (see the file on the chimney renovation and the Poujoulat casing solutions). If this proves impossible, the option of a vacuum pellet stove could be considered.

If the duct does not allow the passage of a duct of sufficient diameter, you would have the opportunity to pass an insulated duct in rooms and attics, or establish an outside duct.

Redo a chimney

2 years ago, I asked a well known fog company in PARIS to redo the duct of my chimney. Obligation of advice not respected, they made me an estimate of 1283 euros by specifying "raising duct" including (protection of the foot of conduit, removal of the fibro element at the head of duct, loosening and removal of casing, removal of the piping out of order, supply and installation of an extension of stainless steel conduit "height 2 meters, keeps the whole elevated after collar and cable struts in stainless steel, head protection by static vacuum, supply and installation of a hatch tee visit, mechanical sweeping of the pipe, supply and installation of the pipe diameter 125, cleaning of the foot of conduit.They have therefore deposited the old casing without putting a new one: result: infiltration in my kitchen.The responsibility of this company has has been recognized (I'm short) I now have to find a new business of fumigation to pipe the conduit: I do not know who to contact PARIS for fear of falling again on a business p I also do not know if the news (which I thank you for giving me the coordinates) may tub my conduit preserving the work detailed above and the equipment of the failing company or if he must redo everything. What are the precautions to be taken for tuber, what should I ask, what cost? Thank you for your precious help, I am lost (and say that the failed company was normal!

I can only advise you to contact the Chimneys Poujoulat, specialists in the field. They will refer you to the professional nearest you and the most qualified (customer service 0825 328 329)

As for the cost, it depends on the work to be done and the company that will do the work... Unfortunately, I can not encrypt it remotely.

Difference of flue

I have a woodstove with an exit in 150 and me a driving of 140 is this serious or not?

A casing of the flue is strongly recommended; this is in any case strongly recommended when installing a new heater to ensure a good draft and ensure safety and durability.

Ready-to-install kits have been specially put on the market to solve this type of problem.

It is always best to have this editing done by a professional.

Glass wool in chimney

I had a wood stove installed in my house. The installers have installed a duct and pierced my plasterboard ceiling I had one day inside my living room at the collar of the duct, wasps that passed.I looked in the attic and saw that they had removed the glass wool all around on 60 cm. I asked them to put this glass wool back. They came to give it but they told me without explanation that it is better without. So I wonder if I did well to have them put back this glass wool. Is there a fire hazard? What would be the problem?

Of course it is not very regulatory. According to standard NF DTU 24,1, a safety distance of 80 mm must be provided between the outer wall of the duct and any combustible material. Do not panic, however! Mineral wool is classified MO ie non-combustible and non-flammable. (provided, of course, that it is not mineral wool roll with vapor barrier kraft paper!).

Connect an insert to the chimney

I would like to replace my chimney with insert of rustic style by a contemporary fireplace. How to connect the duct of the new chimney with the pre-existing duct?

The connection between the insert and the roof outlet must be continuous. The section of the duct must be related to that of the new insert. A special connection including an interlocking system adjustable in height is necessary. You will find all the necessary information on the website POUJOULAT.

Attention: by connecting yourself your new device, you lose the benefit of the tax credit (50% currently under certain conditions). It should also be noted that security encourages us not to do this kind of connection ourselves.

Connect two chimneys in the same conduit

Can we install two chimneys (one on the ground floor and the second on the first floor) in the same conduit?

The regulations on this subject are very strict: each heater must have its own duct. It is however possible, under certain conditions, to pass two casings in the same conduit. However, I advise you to get closer to a professional fulist or to consult the site poujoulat.fr

Butcher a chimney

How to plug ducts chimneys become useless all the way up to prevent birds (crow, crows, jackdaws) nest and bring twigs, make fiantes and attract very annoying insects (flies, gnats and others). It is a building of 1902 with 2 floors + attic maid's room and a roof at 14 meters.

The closing of a duct must be done by providing a high and low ventilation (protected by grids).

Determine the number of flues per heater

I would like to drill an old chimney pipe with an internal dimension of 60 cm x 30 cm in brick by 3 casings, one of which is made of stainless steel to connect a wood stove, another casing to connect the hood of the kitchen and a last for the release of the VMC The 3 ducts would come out by the chimney stump. Is this allowed? If yes, must 3 stainless steel ducts? By the way, congratulations for this site, I found several answers to some problems in the cards of do-it-yourself.

Thank you for your encouragement for the site.

A flue pipe, even if cased, can only be used for this purpose and contain only one casing.

What is the legislation for a chimney?

I just bought a house where the fireplace has an insert but not actually a fireplace. Clearly if I remove the insert I see directly inside with the insulation layers placed inside the hood. Is it regulatory? In addition the insert is directly connected to the conduit which is brick square section. Do I have to compulsorily tuber this duct?

Your installation seems hardly regulatory. A direct connection to the masonry duct is possible if it is realized in the rules of the art. It is generally more prudent to tuber, and this over the entire length of the conduit.

On the same topic

  • Questions answers
    • The wood stove and its installation in 5 questions
    • The chimney draw in 5 questions
    • How to recover the heat emitted by a wood stove?
    • What duct does it take for a wood stove?
    • How far is the glass wool from the flue?
    • Upgrading to an open fireplace
    • Recourse against the seller of a house
    • How to isolate the lost roofs of a Phoenix house?
    • Sweeping with insert
    • Wood stove installation.
    • Can we sweep with chimney sweeping?
  • DIY tips
    • Wood heating: efficiency and heat production
    • Chimney ducts and draft conditions: the sources of problems
    • Fight against moisture and mold stains on walls and ceilings
    • Carpet maintenance (repairing snags, stains and burns)

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