- Detailed execution plans
- Choose your materials
- 1. Realization of foundations
- Concrete blocks
- Styrofoam plates and trellis
- Concrete slab
- 2. Preparation and assembly of the frame
- Blank assembly
- On-site assembly
- Portals and intermediate columns
- Intermediate and ridge failure
- 3. Setting up the first "skin"
- Laying a vapor barrier
- Laying OSB
- Laying a rain screen
- Attachment of the contralates
- 4. Implementation of the insulation
- Alignment of the lines
- Laying of glass wool
- Laying metal furs and vapor barrier
- 5. Laying the blanket
- The choice of backlit
- Laying the underlay screen and slats
- Repeat the latching operation
- Dressing of the fireplace
- Laying tiles
- Hollow seal and zinc plug
- Laying roof tiles
- Organization for laying tiles
- 6. Installation of joinery and cladding
- Sharpening angles
- Laying bibs
- Invisible fixation clasps
- Cutting clapboard
- Pit all waters: do not forget the ventilation
- 7. Interior fittings
- Laying plasterboard partitions
- Smooth the asperities
- Laying parquet on joists
- A pellet stove for heating
- And the joists?
- Ensure the work of a self-build
Motivated by their knowledge of woodworking and their tight budget, Loïc and Marie Budin created a house that combines a traditional frame with a fiber cement cladding. Here is in picture the story of a well-conducted project!
Detailed execution plans
Carrying out the construction of such a house requires detailed execution plans, the optimization of the structural parts and an irreproachable machining quality.
All these phases can be entrusted to a professional who will draw the plans, size the rooms, number them and prepare the complete assembly of the frame.
Then simply assemble this giant mechanic, or rely on the same professional. The final price will necessarily be affected. But whatever the case, further work (insulation, cladding and interior fittings) can then be taken care of by a skilled handyman.
Difficulty : 4/4
Cost: € 52,000 (excluding land,
sanitation and heating)
Time : 2 years part time
(at 2 and sometimes 3 people)
Equipment: mini excavator
and telescopic wagon,
chain mortiser, saws
circular and jigger, grinder,
Choose your materials
Several facing facades are possible. To avoid any maintenance, the owners have chosen here cement-fiber clapboard, which imitate the appearance of the wood and withstand the weather very well. The choice of coverage depends on the region. Here, the slate Beauvois tile was chosen for its simplicity of installation. Inside, the walls are covered with plasterboard and the joists are visible, the insulation of the floors being carried out from above, in the thickness of the joists.
1. Realization of foundations
The leveling of the ground is done with a shovel. The location of the foundations is then identified with stakes and cords. The trenches are dug in the wake (prof 80 cm and width 50 cm).
A formwork board is placed level on the outside of the trenches, before casting the concrete base.
Two rows of blocks are then mounted. To achieve the formwork of the abutment of the slab of the ground floor, planelles of 5 cm thick are laid to the outside bare. The reservations (electricity, plumbing, wastewater, etc.) are made with PVC pipe: this solution will avoid breaking the masonry later. To make the hedgehog, the entire excavation is then backfilled with rubble and rubble up to 30 cm below the final level of the slab.
Styrofoam plates and trellis
Extruded polystyrene plates are laid in two crossed layers and covered with a polyane. After passing the electrical conduits, a welded mesh is placed on the polyane.
The concrete slab is then poured ensuring that the slab of the terrace is lower than that of the house.
2. Preparation and assembly of the frame
Made of Douglas fir, all the pieces of the frame (posts, beams, trusses...) are cut in the workshop. The machining is also prepared and made in advance for on-site assembly.
Each junction is assembled blank to verify that the tenons, mortises or mid-wood assemblies fit precisely. If necessary, clamps or ratchet straps are used. The assemblies are then drilled for the subsequent installation of pegs.
Gables and facades are gradually mounted on site. The first gantry is lifted using a construction machine. The gantries are assembled and lifted in the same way. As and when, they are supported with bastaings and ropes to prevent their fall.
Portals and intermediate columns
After perfectly aligning and calling the porticoes, the upper and lower runners are positioned and fixed with wooden dowels. The intermediate columns of the ground floor are laid with regular spacing.
Intermediate and ridge failure
Intermediate failures are placed on claws (or chantignoles), while the ridge tip is inserted at the top of the punches. After checking one last time the alignment and applomb of all structural elements, the shoring is removed to work more comfortably.
3. Setting up the first "skin"
The 20 mm thick roofing is nailed directly to the purlins. Its underside will be kept apparent in the three bedrooms and bathroom upstairs. The reservations are intended to receive roof windows or skylights.
Laying a vapor barrier
A vapor barrier is stapled on the flight and then covered with thin rafters forming boxes 30 cm wide. The bushels of chimney exceed by at least 40 cm the ridge.
Facades and gables are covered with OSB. By avoiding the deformation of the structure, they ensure its bracing. The locations of doors and windows are identified and then cut into these panels.
Laying a rain screen
The walls are covered with a rain screen. The strips are laid horizontally, from bottom to top, leaving a slight overlap. With the exception of an entrance on the ground floor, the doors and windows are not open to protect the building from wind and rain.
Attachment of the contralates
Contretattes (section 25 x 28 mm) fixed at regular intervals and discontinuously are nailed to the rainscreen. The space between the contrelattes will ensure the good ventilation of the cladding.
4. Implementation of the insulation
Glass wool (240 mm thick) without vapor barrier is unwrapped inside each box. Lanes are set astride the two slopes to avoid a thermal bridge at the ridge. At the bottom of the ramp, the insulation overflows to be adjusted during the installation of the cladding.
Alignment of the lines
Inside, lines are aligned with the line and fixed every 40 cm on the poles. The distance between the OSB panel and the end of the lines corresponds to the thickness of the insulation (28 cm).
Laying of glass wool
The layers of glass wool are crossed to promote watertightness: the first (16 cm) is placed vertically, the second (12 cm) horizontally.
Laying metal furs and vapor barrier
The metal furs are placed during the laying of the second layer. The vapor barrier will be laid later.
5. Laying the blanket
The first under-roof screen is unwound and stapled on the rafters. The battens are then nailed respecting the draft of the tiles (see box). They also serve as a ladder for the roofer.
The choice of backlit
It is preferable to interpose controls between the under-roof screen and the battens supporting the tiles. In case of infiltration between the tiles or condensation, the water can slide along the screen and the battens without risking to rot them.
Laying the underlay screen and slats
On the cheeks of the dormers, the screen is placed and slats are fixed vertically every 50 cm. They receive a zinc pit (nailed) and a cladding (screwed).
Repeat the latching operation
All the cheeks are treated in the same way, respecting the overlap of the cheeks to avoid infi ltrations in the insulation. The implementation of the lathing then continues on the roof and gables dormers.
Dressing of the fireplace
The complete cladding of the chimney is achieved by providing zinc valleys identical to those of dormers.
Then begins the laying of the tiles, advancing from the bottom to the top. A telescopic machine is useful to avoid their handling.
Hollow seal and zinc plug
The junction between the two slopes is made with a hollow joint of 3 to 5 cm. The valley in zinc then serves as a gutter.
Laying roof tiles
The ridge tiles are then screwed onto the skylight ridge, starting from the sprocket.
Organization for laying tiles
When the first slope is finished, the main roof is equipped with ridge boards as the second slope is covered. This avoids having to step on the tiles. The pose continues to the shore. The prevailing winds must be taken into account for the orientation of the tiles.
6. Installation of joinery and cladding
The frames are wedged and screwed into their frame. Along the uprights and lintels, the insulation is reinforced by expansive foam. In the lower part, a silicone seal ensures watertightness and airtightness.
The protruding corners of the facade and the frames of the openings are finished with thermo-lacquered aluminum profiles.
Bibs are attached to the bottom of the walls. Installed perfectly level, these profiles serve as a reference for the installation of cladding.
Invisible fixation clasps
The clapboard is screwed on the vertical slats, starting from the bottom. Each blade covers the one below 3 cm. For no fixation is apparent, the clapboard is only screwed in the upper part (part covered by the next).
On the gables, the cutting of the clapboard does not need to be as precise as for the aluminum profiles of the openings. In the upper part, the roof tiles will hide the possible defects of the cladding.
Pit all waters: do not forget the ventilation
If your house is equipped with a sewerage system, and if you want the high ventilation is not apparent in facade, think to pass a sheath under the cladding. For this, use a simple PVC tube of Ø 30 cm.
7. Interior fittings
The airtightness of the facades is treated with a translucent reinforced vapor barrier. Horizontal cleats (to integrate the electrical ducts) are then screwed: they will support the drywall.
Laying plasterboard partitions
The plasterboard partitions and the doors are laid. Here too, the water and electricity networks are integrated into the structures.
Smooth the asperities
After piercing the plates to install the boxes of the electrical equipment, the screw heads and the plate connections are coated. The plate / panel joint is treated with an acrylic seal to prevent cracks.
Laying parquet on joists
A solid parquet is nailed on joists screwed on the joists. An acoustic insulation (glass wool) is inserted between these joists.
The finishes consist of laying the tiles on the floor, painting the walls, installing the kitchen furniture, installing the stairs and the sanitary...
A pellet stove for heating
Thanks to the quality of the insulation, a simple pellet stove is enough to heat the whole house. For safety, connections for electric radiators were however provided under each window.
And the joists?
The joists (here bastaings) are laid with a spacing of 25 to 40 cm, depending on the range between the main beams or between the walls. If it is intended to hide them by a false ceiling, spacers placed at regular intervals can stiffen the floor, thus making it less sound.
Ensure the work of a self-build
An individual who builds such a house can not subscribe decennial guarantee. In the event of sale of the property within ten years after the end of the work, he must guarantee in front of notary the durability of the construction the time that remains over this ten-year period. Moreover, if other people intervene on the site (friends, family...), the self-builder must check that its civil liability guarantee works in the event of an accident (see "What the law says", System D n° 783, April 2011 and No. 793, February 2012).
• Extruded polystyrene, polyamid film, concrete and cement, blocks 20 and 5 cm thick
• Douglas fir frame, 14 mm OSB panels, semi-rigid glass wool, vapor barrier, plasterboard
• Douglas beams and beams, 12 mm medium panels, joists, semi-rigid glass wool, solid fir floor
• Rain shield, 24/27 Northern pine shutters, stainless steel screws, PVC doors, windows and bay windows, aluminum corner profiles
• Nordic fir floorings, underlay screen, 24/27 battens, slate Beauvois tiles
• Metal rails, glass wool, plasterboard, Douglas plank, silicone sealant, calico, etc.