- Necessary material
- Shutter: a wall-mounted installation
- A manually operated flap
- Pane: precise measurements
- How to take measurements before buying your shutter:
- Adaptation of the shutter reel
- Trunk cutting and assembly
- Info +
- 3. Assembly of the apron
- Laying the shutter
- Adjusting shims for installing shutters
This type of closure secures, isolates and regulates light. The roller shutter installs easily with little tools, without degrading the surrounding masonry, and provides a real comfort of use.
- Sweet lime,
- Metal saw,
- Shears with curved beak,
- Miter shears,
- PZ1 and PZ2 tips,
- Concrete drills and metals,
- chainsaw Ø 125 mm + disc metal 2 mm
- 1 shutter with 225x120cm strap
- Screw ∅ 4 x70mm, sheet metal screw ∅ 4mm
- Masonry anchors full of ∅ 6mm
- Wooden corners or cleats
Cost: about 100 €
Time: 1 day
The shutters are traditionally swinging, but the configuration of the facade may require a different choice. Here, the window located at the corner of two walls did not allow the full opening of the shutter. In addition, the creation of reserves for the sealing of the hinges would have degraded the entourage in relief which underlined the outline of the painting.
The choice was therefore made of rolling shutters.
Shutter: a wall-mounted installation
These offer different advantages: their footprint is reduced, no intervention is necessary on the window panel...
The deck is housed in a box placed, in renovation, in three ways: applied on the front, in front or under the lintel (solution retained here). Only disadvantages, fix the chest under the lintel reduces the daylight of the window, and apply it as a protruding outgrowth very visible on the facade.
A manually operated flap
The trunk has a horizontal axis on which the apron rolls up, that is to say the sheet formed of articulated blades (plastic, wood...).
They are guided on each side by a slide.
The control of total or partial opening is done manually by a strap or by means of an electric motor. There is for each brand a range of products characterized by the width and height of the deployed deck.
Before taking measurements, it is essential to check whether the shutter goes down the window or the outside of the facade. This second option provides a free space between the window and the deck, useful for a handle or an outdoor railing.
Pane: precise measurements
To facilitate the purchase and installation of this type of carpentry, it is necessary to take precisely the dimensions (see diagram opposite). To determine the height of the opening, measure the distance between the bottom of the lintel and the top of the masonry window sill (200 cm in the example presented here).
The width of the board is to be checked between the two uprights (100 cm here). If the opening is not perfectly orthogonal, it is the smallest measure of the trapezium which is to be taken into account.
It remains only to choose from the components proposed in the trade, the one closest to the measurements taken and cross-check it if necessary to adapt it to the opening.
How to take measurements before buying your shutter:
Laying under lintel
1. Height between lintel and support
2. Width of the table
3. Diagonal (support corner, lintel corner)
Adaptation of the shutter reel
Taking the measurements in a table is accompanied by a verification of the verticality of the two amounts.
Use a ruler and check on the spirit level.
The apron is driven by an octagonal axis provided at each end of a roller bearing pulley allowing rotation of the assembly on the central nipple of the cheeks.
Each pulley has a lateral sleeve which engages in the tubular axis.
Ensure the connection of the two elements with a sheet metal screw.
To adapt the axis to the width of the board, mount the other pulley without fixing it.
Measure the overall length and leave a clearance of about 5 mm.
Cut the tube using a grinder equipped with a metal disc 2 mm thick.
Take into account this thickness for cutting
Fit the second pulley by pushing until the tube completely caps the sleeve.
Fix it as the first, with a sheet metal screw.
Trunk cutting and assembly
The box must fit exactly in the width of the board.
Trace the location of the cut taking into account the play of laying and the thickness of the cheeks at the ends.
To cut the aluminum sheet, use a needle-nose shear, or better, a nibbler.
It is also possible to cut with a chain saw equipped with a thin disc.
In this case, make sure that the grinding wheel does not slip on the sheet!
Work on a stable support and position your body on its side.
The trunk is closed by two cheeks, whose front leg is used as a mounting fixture.
Locate the location of the mounting holes in correspondence with those of the cheeks.
Drill Ø 4 mm holes and screw.
The nipple, in the middle of the cheek, serves as support for the retractor (the strap will wrap around).
The boot lid and the slides are protected by a blue plastic film.
To make cuts, holes, assembly operations, keep this protective film in place and remove it only when everything is finished.
Check the shaft rotation perfectly by placing the reel with its two pulleys between the cheeks of the trunk.
To operate the apron, a strap contained in a housing acts on one of the pulleys.
Block this strap in a slot and then roll it in the throat.
Make sure that the bearing is engaged on the cheek nipple.
The strap will exit through a window in one of the corners of the trunk.
3. Assembly of the apron
Determine the length of the apron blades by measuring the length of the drive shaft.
Cut the blades leaving the play recommended by the instructions, here 7.5 mm on each side.
The use of a miter shear allows a more precise cut.
The tool has a support that ensures the perpendicularity of the cut.
Each blade has a rabbet and a tongue.
They fit into each other by sliding.
Bring the blades to the drive shaft by the "T" piece.
Slide the rigid portion onto the tongue of the first blade and insert the flexible portion into a slot in the shaft.
Prime the winding of the apron precisely and tightly.
Ensure that the ends of the blades pass between the rounded lips of the guides located on each cheek.
Go to the end of the winding.
For safety, the last blade has an internal lock provided by two stops with a control button.
The bottom of the apron must pass under the curved guides while preserving lateral play for sliding.
The last blade has plastic guides at its ends.
Close the boot by fastening the two covers with sheet metal screws.
The slides will fit into the front legs of the trunk when it is installed.
Laying the shutter
Slide the box on the support angles until its front face is aligned with the nude of the facade.
If you work alone, nothing is planned to support the trunk during assembly.
To facilitate the installation, peg and screw two angles on each side of the table below the lintel.
They will keep the chest safe.
Measure the distance between the underside of the trunk and the window sill.
Cut the slides to size.
Engage some blades in the slide.
Align the slide on the edge of the board.
Drill 4 Ø 4 mm holes in the bottom of the slide and then 4 Ø 6 mm holes in the masonry.
Ankle and fasten (4 mm screw).
For the second slide, start with the top fixing.
To perfect the tightness with the masonry, deposit a silicone seal along the slides.
The casing of the strap is fixed inside, between 90 and 120 cm high, on the right or on the left.
Mark the two fixing points, drill, dowel (Ø 6 mm) and screw (Ø 4 mm).
Check the progress of the apron by pulling on the strap. He must go back to the top.
Give a blow to the strap; it wraps itself in the casing and the apron goes down.
Adjusting shims for installing shutters
When the masonry is not perfectly plumb: screw the first slide without blocking, place a wedge, check the plumb and screw permanently.
Do this for each fixation.
Cut out the part of the shims protruding with a cutter.