The flat miter joint with false post is a variant of the mortise and tenon joint. It is suitable for joining in angle and cut tabs, two similar pieces of wood. Its solidity must be reinforced by the internal bonding of the false post. He is invisible.
- Miter square
- Glue brush
- Flat miter tab with false tenon
- Mid-end wood
Flat miter tab with false tenon
1. The layout is similar for both pieces of wood. Just make it on one and postpone it on the other. To do this, use a miter square to locate the 45° angle for this assembly. Hatch the falls.
2. To draw the mortise, use the truscan. Mark the tracing of the conventional sign signaling the blind mortises. This mortise must take place exactly in the center of the face to assemble. Check the similarity of the lines.
3. Dig the two mortises with a chisel. Work by fixing the workpiece on the workbench with a clamp. These mortises having only two sides present less difficulties of realization than conventional one-eyed mortises.
4. A small square of wood plays the role of tenon. Cut it carefully to the dimensions of the mortises. It is always better to cut this square a little larger and then adjust it by sanding it. Glue both sides of the square, place it in a mortise. Assemble the two pieces of wood.
1. After drawing the half-timber end assembly on the two pieces of wood and hatching the falls with industrial chalk, cut out with a fine-toothed handsaw (or a backpack saw). Take into account the thickness of the saw line.
2. Using a paintbrush, apply wood glue to the faces to be joined. Gluing is essential for this assembly.
3. After assembling the two pieces, plant headless tips to consolidate the whole and hold the pieces while the glue is drying. Give a light touch to the point of the nail before pushing it in: slightly blunted, it is less likely to crack the piece of wood. To achieve a stronger nailing, nail nails. Remove nails from the wood with nail strippers. This precaution is then used to plan and file without damaging the tools. In addition, it proves essential to aesthetics for the construction of a piece of furniture.
4. Using a saw, level the two pieces of wood to complete the assembly. It is preferable to provide a few centimeters of margin at the time of the plot and to scrape at the end of the work, rather than cutting right away at the exact dimensions: indeed, a too short cut (due to slight errors of sawing) obliges to start cutting again. Finish with the plane to even the surfaces.
1. The assembly mid-wood realized here, variant of the precedent, is reserved for meeting links. Make the trace on the end of the piece to be cut and put it on the other piece; hatch the falls in red. Allow a margin of a few millimeters at the end for the final leveling.
2. Use a wood chisel and mallet to cut the bottom of the cut after sawing on both sides with a saw. The male piece is cut with the saw, as in the previous assembly. Of course, the thickness of the cut line must be taken into account: always cut slightly beyond the path. Then rectify, if necessary, with a rasp or sandpaper.
3. Using a mallet, fit the two pieces of wood together: indeed, the assembly will hold better if it is done by force. It is possible to strengthen it by gluing and nailing. Plant a nail without a head, so that it crosses the male part and sinks into the bottom of the notch. Some achievements allow the establishment of reinforcing brackets in the corners.
4. Pass the plane over the siding and the edge of the female piece to even the surfaces. As it stands, this assembly is used only if the part in which is performed the male part must be subjected to a pressure perpendicular to that received by the other part. Book nesting for library separations for example.
On the same topic
- DIY tips
- Joinery: tracing
- Joinery: establishment of parts for assemblies
- Half-wood (end), assembly diagram
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