- Practical advice
- Opt for a floating or glued pose
- At the time of choice
- Before laying
- Obtain floorboards
- Control the flatness of the soil
- Remove dust
- Lay the first row of blades
- Apply the glue
- Place a tab at the end
- Install the blade
- Using a blade driver
- Tips for crosses
- Start the second row
- Install glue and blades alternately
- Resize some parts
Choosing a solid parquet is choosing a natural and traditional material. It creates a warm atmosphere and fits with all styles. And its life is remarkable.
Time: a weekend
Equipment: notched trowel, rubber mallet, hammer, blade driver, framer saw, aluminum ruler (2 to 3 m)
Opt for a floating or glued pose
- On new floors or in replacement of an old or old-fashioned carpet, the parquet floor is easy to maintain and solves the problems of dust mite allergies.
- On a concrete slab, traditional nailed laying is excluded. The possible solutions are then the floating pose (the blades are glued or clipped together), or as here the glued pose. This type of installation is well suited to solid wood flooring narrow blades.
At the time of choice
- In addition to the budget, the points that must be taken into consideration are: the method of installation, the resistance to wear, and the nature of the material (imitation wood laminate, or authentic solid wood). This is a Vernilame parquet in solid oak, varnished in the factory (vitrifier is useless). The blades of 15 x 70 x 390 mm are bouvetées: a groove on one side, a tongue on the other. The ends, also grooved, are abutted by plastic tongues.
- Many types of pose are possible:
- At "stone cut": the joints are alternated every other rank.
- Has broken sticks ": the blades are arranged in chevrons at 90°, but their ends are not intersected, which gives a quincunx effect.
- At "point of Hungary": the apparatus is also in chevrons but the ends of the blades are cut at 45° to assemble in points. In this case, it is impossible to keep the grooves and end tabs.
- The glue used ("Citywood" Marty) is a water-free product based on synthetic resins, for parquet floors up to 15 mm thick. With the notched spatula attached to the can, the average consumption is 1 kg / m2.
- The plinths are dismantled. The floor must be clean.
- No rise in humidity is acceptable ; if the concrete is new, allow three weeks of drying for a 4 cm screed.
- The flatness of the support is controlled by moving a ruler in different parts of the room; too large hollows require patching.
- Blade packs are stored in advance in the room to bring them to room temperature (minimum 15° C).
- The parquet is here laid with stone cut: the joints are aligned one rank out of two. The starting wall usually corresponds to the largest dimension of the room.
- An expansion joint (circumferential clearance) of 8 to 10 mm should be provided around the perimeter of the room.
- To ensure a good start, the first row is glued the day before the actual construction, in support against a metal rule clamped to the ground. In this way, the start is not dependent on the irregularities of the wall. After drying, the rule is removed and the following rows can be glued without fear of moving the first one.
- The rest of the implementation is (almost) only a formality. The main difficulty lies in the cuts in the length for which it is sometimes necessary to draw with the truscan or the compass.
- Remove the shims. To attach skirting boards, glue them with polyurethane putty, apply them firmly to the wall and knock with rubber mallet.
- Install the threshold bar, screwed or glued. Wait three days before using the room.
15 mm oak blades, factory varnished, are packed in packages of 1.15 m2. Grooved at their ends, the elements are butted using plastic tongues.
Control the flatness of the soil
Present a ruler in various places on the support to check for flatness. Irregularities must not exceed 5 mm under a rule of 2 m. Beyond, a patch is necessary.
- Concrete slabs, especially recent ones, are frequently powdery. Dust being harmful to gluing, carefully vacuum.
- If it is necessary to wash the floor, let it dry.
Lay the first row of blades
The blades of the first row are laid blank along the wall. Wedges make it possible to obtain the expansion joint. A rule anchored in the slab serves as an alignment guide.
Apply the glue
Remove the blades and spread the special glue on the floor with the notched spatula. Squeeze the first blade by crushing the furrows. Calibrate at the end to reserve the peripheral game.
Place a tab at the end
Engage a plastic tab at the end of the next blade.
Install the blade
Put the latter in place. Then to assemble, tap the rubber mallet at the end and on the face.
Using a blade driver
A blade driver facilitates the installation of the last piece at the end of the row. This angled beak plate hooks the blade, allowing insertion into the hammer.
Tips for crosses
To cut blades, it is possible to use a jigsaw, but a framer saw set at 90° is more accurate. Equipped with presses, it allows easy cutting.
Start the second row
Wait 24 hours to remove the rule. Start the second row with a half-blade. Check the squareness and alignment at each blade; use a fall as a martyr if you have to rectify.
Install glue and blades alternately
Glue the floor as you progress to avoid getting bogged down. Lay the following blades, alternating whole and half, not to mention the end wedges.
Resize some parts
The blades of the last row are slotted if necessary to respect the peripheral game. Directly glued - optionally with polyurethane glue - they are applied to the blade.