- Practical advice
- Gutter and quantity of water
- The right profile
- A quick pose
- Dig a trench
- Pour a concrete sole
- Adjust the elements
- Assemble bottom and starting point
- Nest the elements
- To put a half grid
- Remove the assembly in the trench
- Cuming, tamping and smoothing
Around a terrace or pool, at the bottom of a downhill garage, the gutter is essential to recover the rainwater that flows on the ground. Simple to install, it adapts to all terrain configurations and evacuation systems.
When the elements of the gutter are assembled, they are positioned with their gate in the trench. Each side is filled with a rather liquid concrete so that the spaces are well filled. Indeed, the gutter is not self-supporting but becomes thanks to the concrete. Let shoot a week before rolling on it.
Gutter and quantity of water
In trough form, the gutters have reinforcements to withstand the pressure of the concrete and the weight of the vehicles. They are available in several widths and depths depending on the quantity of water to be evacuated.
The right profile
The gutters are distinguished by the material that constitutes them and the nature of their grid. In polymer concrete, in reinforced polyester fiberglass or polypropylene, covered with grids made of galvanized steel, cast iron or reinforced PVC, they will be more or less able to withstand heavy loads.
● An NF standard classifies them into different categories. The class A 15 is intended for surfaces practiced only by pedestrians and cyclists, so it adapts well to gardens. The B 125 is intended for car parks for passenger vehicles, and therefore for the alleys and descents serving a private garage. The upper classes, C250, D400... are dedicated to lanes frequented by heavy goods vehicles.
● The amount of water to be drained determines the section of the profile. A gutter of "130" or "200", responds to all cases for a house. This number indicates the useful width in millimeters of the grid. The upper dimensions "300", "400"... are reserved for car parks, large roof terraces, public pools, etc.
A quick pose
A gutter settles in a trench and is then painted with concrete that ensures its seating and fixing. The first element to be laid, or bottom, includes a cap that is removed with a hammer blow to end a descent of rainwater.
● Available in lengths of 0.50 or 1 m, the elements are connected in a straight line or angled by male / female interlocking. Some models require gluing to seal. Others are simply clipped. By sawing them between the reinforcements, the assembly socket is kept to adjust the length of the gutter in 10 cm increments.
● A birth, to be placed at the other end, allows the connection to the evacuation network. It is available with an output of Ø 100 mm in general, or with different diameters staggered to adapt to that of the pipe of the network.
● The trench is dug with a margin of 5 cm in depth and 10 in width with respect to the section of the gutter. A 5 cm concrete footing is poured into the bottom. It must have a minimum slope of 5 mm / m (count 1 cm / m, if the quantity of water to be evacuated is important).
Dig a trench
Mark the location of the gutter with cords and stakes or trace with plaster. Dig a trench wider 10 cm and 5 cm deeper than the profile dimensions.
Pour a concrete sole
Pour a lean concrete base (250 kg / m3) on a 5 cm thick trench bottom. Adjust the level to the metal ruler to give it a slight slope (5 mm / m) downstream.
Adjust the elements
Lay down the reinforced pvc channel elements without the grilles. If necessary, cut the starting element with a hacksaw to adjust its length. Be sure to saw between the reinforcements.
Assemble bottom and starting point
Clear the bottom if it needs a downspout. Clip it on the starting element. If it has been sawn, the bottom fits and hangs in the trench.
Nest the elements
Snap the male and female parts together and clip to lock them. Gluing is not necessary. A bead of silicone sealant may strengthen the seal.
To put a half grid
Start laying the grids by one half. Saw the lugs of one of the ends of the first (and last) grid to be able to put it in place.
Remove the assembly in the trench
The elements of the gutter form a rigid beam easy to deposit in the trench. For long lengths, proceed in several times. Connect the birth to the drainage network.
Cuming, tamping and smoothing
Concrete, imperatively grid in place. Pour the concrete on both sides of the gutter. Tamp to get a subscriber sitting and smooth with a trowel.