- Necessary material
- Co-ownership insulation before laying
- Opt for floating installation without underlay
- Prepare the site
- Lay laminate boards
- Treat cuts and finishes
- Fix baseboards
- Install the threshold bar
- Alternative: lay on underlayment
Laminate is a coating with multiple qualities. The model presented here offers the authenticity of a massive sawn solid oak floor. Its nestable glue-free blades guarantee a clean and fast work.
- Carpenter's square
- Circular saw
- Radial saw
- Metal saw
- Cartridge gun
- Perforator or percussion drill
- Layered laminate in packages (covered area indicated on the packaging)
- Possible undercoat
- Oak MDF baseboards
- Threshold bar (s)
- Fixing mastic
Cost: approx. 150 € for 12 m2 (skirting included)
Time : 2 days
Co-ownership insulation before laying
In the majority of cases, the pose is floating (without "adhering" to the ground, which makes it removable). It requires the establishment of a flexible resilient underlayment (in roll) or rigid (in plate). Selected in natural or synthetic material, its function is to separate the support coating (wooden floor, concrete slab...). The goal is to avoid or at least limit the propagation of sounds to the parts below. The thickness of the sub-layer varies on average from 2 to 5 mm (Max. 10 mm) depending on the desired performance. Its installation is indispensable in many cases, especially in residential buildings.
Opt for floating installation without underlay
The underlayment is generally in the opposite direction of the blades. In this ground floor of detached house, there is no room to preserve below. Acoustic comfort concerns only the target room and a resilient underlay would intervene little on the attenuation of the noises of shock and the reversion of the sounds. We can do without and be content with a laminate incorporating a polyethylene underlay 2 mm thick. It's as much time saved and savings realized.
Prepare the site
- Storing laminate 24 hours at least before installation in the room concerned, in order to acclimate it to the ambient humidity.
- Place the packages flat without unpacking them.
- For remove existing skirting boards, use tools adapted to the hardness of the walls. Here, a hammer and a chisel are used to unseal the tile baseboards.
- Thefilling plaster is ideal for grinding walls, whether they are concrete or cellular concrete, plaster, etc.
- Observe the indicated drying time.
- Clean the floor.
- Check its flatness. There should be no roughness or dust that can create extra thickness.
- Do not hesitate to patch if necessary.
Lay laminate boards
- Choose the laying direction. In the length of the room, we obtain a better visual effect even if it is advisable to orient the blades in the direction of the light coming from the window.
- Book a expansion joint 8 mm thick device.
- Present the first blade in the starting angle, orienting its longitudinal groove on the wall side.
- Divide three holds thick in the length of the blade to provide the necessary expansion space.
- Place two more shims at the end.
- Present the next slide by tilting at 30°.
- Prime the snap and lower the blade to lock the assembly.
- Tap on a martyr block to correct the alignment.
- At the end of the row, measure the blade length to be cut, by integrating the expansion space.
- Then draw the cut square.
- The circular saw under table allows to obtain cuts perfectly straight and sharp.
- Never remove the blade guard: it is an indispensable safety accessory!
- Present the last blade end cut on the wall side.
- Assemble it as before, or slide it flat sideways.
- Use the blade as needed.
- In lost cut poseyou can use the fall of the previous row to start the next one. It is enough that it is at least 20 cm long.
- Continue laying in the same way as you walk towards the front door.
- From one rank to another, be sure to respect a offset joints at least twice the width of the blade.
- Remove the shims (peripheral seal) as the work progresses.
Treat cuts and finishes
- The very last blade comes to rest at the threshold of the door.
- After a precise tracing, re-cut the last blade (with a table saw as here, or with a jigsaw).
- Then trace the last ones adjustment cutouts: in width and on each side at the foot of the doorframe. The falls are hatched to avoid any mistakes during sawing.
- After checking, put the last blade in place with the help of the blade to fit it.
A pro thing is to saw the bottom of the uprights a few millimeters deep, to embed the last blade and make the joint invisible. The saw blade saw or a multifunction tool is resting on a laminate drop, to adjust the thickness of the notch.
The laminate is completed with MDF skirting boards covered with a decorative film matching the blades. Contoured to hide electrical wires, they measure L. 240 x H. 8 x th. 1.5 cm (6.80 € each). They can be fixed by gluing, nailing or screwing. There are also threshold bars coordinated.
- In the angles, baseboards join with miter cuts.
- The radial saw ensures an impeccable cut exactly to the desired angle.
- Fixing is done here with a putty adhesive in cartridge deposited in zigzag.
- Add dots of glue in the hollows of the bead to strengthen the binding.
- Set up the length of plinth.
- Fill any gaps with mastic.
- Wipe out the burrs immediately with a damp cloth.
Install the threshold bar
- Cut the aluminum threshold bar in length.
- The notch at each end with the hacksaw.
- Set the threshold bar by means of threaded dowels (supplied) to be housed in holes drilled in the ground.
Alternative: lay on underlayment
In addition to the reduction of noise, the resilient underlay can meet other needs: greater flexibility in walking, thermal comfort, compatibility with a heated floor, etc. At the time of purchase, it is useful to indicate the type of floor to cover: walk-in, cellar or crawl space, floor...
- Spread the first by raising it 4 to 5 cm on the walls.
- Cut it with a cutter after flattening it.
- Place the The following edge to edge. The underlayment must not buckle when the coating is placed over it.