- Practical advice
- Tracking and implementation
- Common sense
- Identify the location of the lock
- Slash the wood
- Drill the pilot holes
- Mark the axis of the handle
- Drill and cut
- Align the strike on the frame
- A metal plate to guide the handle
- Coat and paint
Widely applied, the wall-mounted locks are suitable for interior doors as well as for entrance doors. Easy to install, they nevertheless require precise tracing and a small carpentry work before taking their service.
A simple "thing" to make finding a replacement lock easy without cluttering the model: take a sheet of paper, sandwich it between the wood and the lock. Draw the outline of the chest and drill with a nail the screw and square passages. Mark a crease on the faceplate and look for the location of the screw holes.
Horizontal or height, lockable or not, the lock applied is mainly used on solid wood doors. It is much simpler to implement than the recessed lock (or "larder") that requires deep machining in the thickness of the leaf and the frame.
● Intended for interior doors, the lock applies the most classic, without key, is reversible left-right. The other models, with keyed tumbler or security, offer a correct protection to the intrusion. The choice will be based on the intended use (bathroom door, service...), and the level of protection sought, if it is to equip a door.
Tracking and implementation
On a panel door, the lock straddles the upper middle cross, that is to say about 1.10 m in height. Block the headrest (the metal flap) on the edge of the door opposite the hinges and draw the outline of the sheet. Cut the wood from the thickness of the metal, then drill the pilot holes of the fixing screws.
● On the back, the lock has a slight circular bulge at the passage of the square of the handle. It is essential to provide a recessed reserve corresponding to the bulge in the wood to put the lock well plumb. Otherwise it would not apply uniformly. This non-opening hole is only a few millimeters with a hole saw or a flat drill of appropriate diameter. The other holes (before the holes of the screws Ø 4.5 x 50 mm TR and especially passage of the square of the lock) are then realized in their exact location and perfectly in the axis.
● For the passage of the working square of the handle, drill with a drill Ø 10 or 13 according to the section of the rod and place a martyr at the outlet to avoid the bursting of the wood.
● Position the striker on the frame frame and proceed in the same way for marking, notching and positioning of the screws. Finish with a good degreasing and painting, avoiding painting the bolt.
There is a simple "code" to remember to easily identify the lock suitable for the opening direction of the door. It is enough to reproduce, with the forearm, the movement of the door to the opening by pushing. The elbow playing the role of the hinge is the hand - right or left - which gives the sense of opening. A mention in words on the packaging always specifies whether it is an opening to the right or left pushing. Some manufacturers sometimes even add an explicit drawing to permanently eliminate any risk of error.
Identify the location of the lock
The lock is centered on the upper intermediate rail of the door. Trace the outline of the headrest on the edge of the opening. At this point, it is not necessary to draw the screw holes.
Slash the wood
After defining the area by striking the perpendicularly held chisel, cut the wood to a depth equal to the thickness of the sheet of the headrest. The tool must be sharp.
Drill the pilot holes
Drill the pilot holes (Ø 3) of the headrest fixing screws. Finish with a milling bit to provide a slight bowl: the sheet is stamped hollow for the passage of screws TF Ø 4 x 30 mm.
Mark the axis of the handle
The lock held by the screws of the headrest, locate the location of the axis of the handle. Mark the wood a few millimeters with a drill Ø 6 through the hole of the square.
Drill and cut
On the square mark, center the drill with a hole saw (Ø 30). Drill straight until you begin a circular cut about 2 mm deep. Blow the wood with the chisel.
Align the strike on the frame
The lock is permanently in place on the opening, place a ruler underneath to align the strike on the frame. Locate the location before cutting the wood for embedding.
A metal plate to guide the handle
On the other side of the door, a metal plate serves as a guide for the handle. Make sure that the square is free to rotate and draw the outline of the plate. Cut the thickness of the metal.
Coat and paint
Use a greasy coating for the finish before painting. Fill the interstices between wood and metal. Block the screw impressions of the headrests. Sand (100 grit) after drying.