- Necessary material
- Laying a floor: adapt to the existing
- Solid parquet flooring: direct laying on joists
- Floor with or without insulation?
- A floor: three possible implementations
- 1. Tracing and landmarks
- 2. Laying the starting blade
- 3. Cutouts and finishes
A mezzanine is an opportunity to take advantage of an undeveloped ceiling height. This volume is even simpler to develop when the joists are already in place: it lacks only a floor and a guardrail...
- Great square
- Cordless drill
- Hunting centers
- Jigsaw and handsaw with fine teeth
- Half-round medium grater
- Folding workbench
- Tongs and grooves 23 mm thick. raw solid pine
- Man head tips Ø 2,2 x 50 mm
- TF agglo screw Ø 4.5 x 50 mm
Find the plan of this realization on duitdesign.com/boutique
- Difficulty: 2/4
- Cost: approximately 20 € / m² (23 mm pine blades)
- Time: half a day
The owners of this house have benefited from the presence of a joist already in place on part of the volume to install a mezzanine reading space. They opted for the simplest and most economical solution by nailing 21mm parquet strips directly onto the joists.
Laying a floor: adapt to the existing
To check the "habitability" of a mezzanine, it is important to take into account all the floor elements forming its thickness and to deduce the free height that remains available.
Where the joists are spaced more than 45 cm apart, it is recommended to interpose joists or decking (OSB or CTBH panels) to support the floor (DTU 51-1 and 51-3). This solution logically increases the thickness of the structure and decreases the ceiling height (see diagrams). If the joists are not perfectly level (which is often the case in old houses), it is wise to interpose shims between joists and joists (or decking). They can be hardwood (hardwood, softwood) or plywood.
To be effective and durable, the wedging must not consist of more than three superimposed elements.
Solid parquet flooring: direct laying on joists
When it is decided to install, as here, solid parquet boards directly on the joist, it is necessary to take into account theacoustic impact of this type of implementation. The sound of footsteps (solid sounds) is propagated through the structure. This detail is not a problem when a mezzanine is open on a living room. But in the event that we close this space, it may be necessary to look for an acoustic solution.
Floor with or without insulation?
How to limit impact noises on the floor?
In the case of a lambourdage (see diagram n° 2 below), it is enough to fill the space between the joists with an insulator (blown, in panel or in roll); and in the case of decking, simply unroll an acoustic underlay before laying the floorboards (diagram # 3).
Another option is still possible: insert a resilient strip between joists and joists (or joists and floor).
For a low cost, this solution has two advantages: to separate the floor from the joist and help reduce noise. It is found in cork from recycling corks (strips 100 cm long, 5 mm thick and 40 to 100 mm wide).
As for the floorboards, they are most often made of solid wood and of noble essence (oak, beech, chestnut...). But there are also pine and fir that come back much cheaper.
In addition to the essence and the width of the blades, the presence of knots determines the price of the products. It is in all cases raw blades, sanded before varnishing or oiling. These blades are specifically intended for this purpose. Their edges include a groove or tongue, and their thickness is about 20 mm (21 to 23 mm). Which allows to opt for a traditional pose: nailed on joists with a distance of 40 cm (DTU 51-1).
A floor: three possible implementations
Traditional laying nailed (our building site)
2. Solid parquet flooring (thickness between 21 and 23 mm depending on the center distance).
Parquet nailed on joists
3. Insulation (optional)
4. Solid wood flooring nailed to the joists
Floating parquet flooring on acoustic sub-layer
2. OSB or CTBH panels
3. Acoustic underlay
4. Engineered parquet or laminate
1. Tracing and landmarks
Draw an alignment mark at the right angle for the first blade.
Align the bracket to the first joist and against the highest point of the wall.
Remove the side tab of the first blade to get a straight edge on the back wall.
Shorten the blade if necessary to have an interval of 1 cm.
Clamp the blade (groove toward the wall) along the previously marked mark.
With a pencil fixed on a cleat, postpone the profile of the wall along the entire length of the blade.
2. Laying the starting blade
On a stable support (here a folding workbench), cut the blade with a jigsaw according to the registration mark.
Present the blade in its final place.
Adjustments may be necessary due to irregularities of the surface taken as a reference.
Depending on their importance, the rectifications are carried out using a rasp, a plane or even a jigsaw.
Work on the ground to make changes safely.
Fit the second blade and check the squareness.
Any offset must be corrected immediately, otherwise the gap will be increased to the last blade.
Fix this blade to the right of each joist (Ø 4.5 mm screw).
Drill through the siding and then mill the holes (to remove the screw heads).
Be sure to adjust the torque of the screwdriver properly so that the screws do not sink too much (especially in softwood).
The screws will be hidden by wood pulp.
3. Cutouts and finishes
The walls being irregular, one can not cut the blades in series.
Measure the length of each blade from the edge of the first joist, reserving 1 cm of play.
Postpone the elevation and then extend the mark with a square.
It will be enough to get a very straight cut.
You can also use a tabbed box.
Each blade must be fitted to the previous one.
For this, use a wedge martyr to hit with a blow without damaging the tongue.
The lateral alignment of the blade is obtained by striking at the end.
The new blade should slide against the previous one.
From the third blade, fixation is done by singing: by pushing man's head ends slanted at the back of the tongue.
Which leaves it intact and is also stronger.
It is necessary to envisage two points by joist, to push enough in the wood not to block the sliding of the following blade.
After laying some blades, you can decide to let them overflow, to re-cut later in one pass, with a ruler and a circular saw.
Every four or five blades, it is advisable to add a screw at the level of the first joist, to strengthen the fixing of the floor.
Continue in the same way to the end of the floor.
Lay the last blade and nail it through the siding.
Attention: the regulations (DTU 24.1) impose a minimum gap of 10 cm between the outer face of a flue and any combustible material.
To avoid damaging the blades when nailing, push the tips only 2/3 full. Then finish with a hunt-point: here a shortened carpenter's nail.