- Perfect imitation
- To pose as a tile
- 1 LAMINATING AND INSTALLING SLABS
- 2 REALIZATION OF CUTTING
- 3 APPLICATION OF JOINTS AND FINISHES
Mimicking the traditional limestone pavement, this ground with assertive character is made of reconstituted stone. A material that can be found in different formats and is very easy to install.
Cost: starting from 70 € / m2
Time: 1 week-end for two, for a room of 20 m2 (without leveling)
Equipment: meter, heel square, spirit level, grinder and diamond discs, tiler tools, large container, kneader, electric polisher (rental)...
The hard limestones of Burgundy, Lot or Aquitaine have been used ever since in the form of stones cut into blocks, rubble or slabs. Crushed and amalgamated with aggregates and binders (including concrete based on quartz), they are found in the composition of reconstituted stone, available in the form of pavements, swimming pools, cornices, garden furniture...
Frost-free, these pavements can generally be used indoors or outdoors if they are not slippery. In addition to a fairly regular appearance (smooth faces, straight edges), they can also display a completely different appearance: that of large old slabs with worn edges or paddles such as Roman opus, stone joints, etc. Each reference then includes up to ten fingerprints. In addition, there are several formats and several tints based on beige (here, 74.5 and 53.5 x 48.5 and 71 and 59 x 40.5 x 2 cm from Martial Grux).
To pose as a tile
The surface to be coated is increased by 5% approximately to take into account the cuts. We must also determine the general sense of pose. The result is the start and the finish (facing an exit) as well as the location of the cups (placed where they are least visible), by means of a calepinage. In most cases, we align ourselves with two perpendicular markers drawn with the line. But if the walls are straight, nothing prevents to start flush with one of them or, like here, against a staircase. Double sizing is recommended because of the thickness and the large format of the pavement (hence a consumption of 8 kg / m2). Between the slabs and at the periphery of the ground, intervals of 1 cm are to be reserved for the joints.
1 LAMINATING AND INSTALLING SLABS
In a garbage can, rub the adhesive mortar with a mixer (slow speed), respecting the dosages.
Apply the adhesive mortar to the 9 x 9 x 9 mm tooth trowel on a surface of 2 m2 about.
Rub the back of the first slab and pat it with the mallet to sit it in the mortar.
Lay the following slabs, orienting them according to the laying plan: here at 90° along the first.
Wipe as much excess glue as possible with the damp sponge so as not to stain the slabs.
To sweeten or not?
Reconstituted stone slabs rest on a smooth and flat support, without excessive moisture (screed poured at least one month before laying). Given their thickness (here 2 cm), the flatness is not so essential. But if many irregularities exceed 15 mm (under a ruler of 2 m), better to patch. Very localized defects can possibly be caught with a good adhesive mortar (powder), either when laying by loading more (up to 3 cm with the product used here), or the previous day by spoiling the mixture rather fluid.
The alternation of the formats and the direction of laying (in length and width) implies here resorting to shorter slabs: measure the length to be covered in order to resize the corresponding slabs. Continue the pose as before.
2 REALIZATION OF CUTTING
Measure the cut to be provided on both sides of an outgoing angle. Do not forget to include the width of the joints (here 1 cm).
Record the measurements on the corresponding slab and cut it to the grinder.
If you are sure of yourself, glue the corresponding surface and lay the slab directly. Otherwise, do a blank test.
When the thread exit coincides with a slab, carefully measure its length and width for a clean and precise cut.
Present the slab without sticking it. Carry the location of the sheaths just on the slab.
As with any freehand cut, work on a stable support. Take goggles and keep your feet and cables away from the disc.
Present the blank slab above the bed of mortar to control the correspondence of the notch with the object to be bypassed. Rectification is always possible at this stage.
The pose having unfolded in the direction of the only exit left free, the last slabs are laid flush with it. Block access to the room for 24 hours so that no one walks on the slabs.
In the absence of a diamond saw, a circular cut can be made by grinding by cutting several notches at the edge of the slab. Broken, the falls then make it possible to obtain the final rounding.
3 APPLICATION OF JOINTS AND FINISHES
The next day, garnish the joints with the cat tongue trowel. The consumption of mortar (4 l of water per 25 kg bag) does not exceed 1 kg / m2 for 1 cm joints and 50 x 50 cm slabs.
As soon as the mortar begins to fire, tighten it with a joint iron. Wipe the excess with a damp sponge by rinsing frequently.
After applying and drying a mineral water repellent, apply waterproofing wax. Use a sponge and wipe the excess well.
A professional waxer can be used to pre-pattern the slabs (using a soft felt)... Do not use it in a linear fashion but rotate from one side to the other while going through the room in its diagonals.
On the fresh wax, the waxy produces a kind of foam to wipe as and when: operate if possible to two
Placed with the same adhesive mortar, baseboards are separated from the slabs by a silicone seal.
Even when placed indoors, reconstituted stone is as vulnerable as natural stone with stains and traces of passage that eventually become embedded in it. Its maintenance is simplified by a stain-resistant treatment: mineral water repellent then waterproofing wax. The water repellent is applied a few days after the joints have dried, and the wax is applied 24 hours later. Both require dry, dusty soil. Subsequently, the slabs are serviced with a special wax (diluted in water). Thorough cleaning is possible with a neutral pH floor cleaner (rinse afterwards). To proscribe: any acid product, any polish based on linseed oil or black soap.
• Engineered stone slabs
• Adhesive mortar (recommended by the manufacturer)
• Joint mortar
• Anti-stain treatment (mineral water repellent and waterproofing wax)