The installation of a shower enclosure requires a complete waterproofing (floor and walls). A lack of sealing causes damage in the masonry, sometimes with serious consequences. We must therefore take care of the preparation of the support.
- Electric drill
- Chisel and key hammer
- Bubble level
- Notched spatula
- Spatula to be rubbed
- PVC glue
- Vinyl paper glue
- Steel wool
- Atlas Necklaces
- 10/12 copper tube
1. Trace the location of the shower tray with chalk on the floor. Most bins are glazed stoneware or china, square, 70 cm. Manufacturers also offer larger bins, 80 cm side, providing greater comfort. There are trays of rectangular shape (70 x 100 cm), and others reserved for corner installations with a rounded part, occupying a minimum of space. The choice of the tray depends on the desired comfort and the available space. Also mark on the wall the mark of the drain hole, which here corresponds to the middle of the tank.
2. Draw a vertical line on the wall from this marker. Use a plumb line, or a bubble level. The supply piping hot and cold water, in fact, will be vertical. These pipes, recessed in the present embodiment, can also be visible, fixed to the support by collars.
3. Assemble the shower control group. The body of the mixing valve is screwed on a T, on which open the two pipes (hot and cold water). The mixed water outlet is through the top of the T, connected to the flexible hose of the showerhead. This part consists of a curved copper pipe with flanged collar or elbow fitting for the water outlet.
4. Locate on the wall the place of the control unit by putting it in position on the vertical. Draw a horizontal at the height of the T. The mixer should be at a good height so that the user can maneuver easily. It should be about 1.50 m from the bottom of the installed shower tray.
5. Using a chisel and a mallet, dig a recess into the wall for embedding. Check before the wall can withstand this work and that no pipe (electricity or gas) passes to this place. If you are a tenant, be aware that this installation work requires the prior authorization of the owner.
6. Connect the mixer tap to the hot and cold water supply lines. These pipes are also embedded: it is necessary to dig down. Connect the copper tubes to the tap with a flanged collar after bending. This operation is performed with a bending pliers, which bends the copper to the desired angle without crushing (after a torch heating). It is possible to do otherwise: after filling the tube with sand and plugging the ends, heat and bend in force.
7. Break the old tile with the hammer and chisel. The tray support must be solid and flat. It is not always necessary to break the old cement screed. On a floor in good condition, simply build the elevation of the tank on the existing screed. Choose the best solution according to the particular conditions of the place.
8. Remove the rubble with the shovel to prepare the realization of the cement sole. Before digging, make sure the floor does not contain any pipes (heating or electricity). In this case, the water supply is through the partition (we also see the evacuation pipe at its exit from the wall).
9. The control unit and the inlet pipes are fastened to the bottom of the installation groove using Atlas collars. The pipes must always be vertical: check the bubble level. Grind by pushing more or less the threaded rods of the cradles of the collars (pigtails). Place the assembly by evaluating the depth that must have the installation so that the body of the mixer exceeds. Make a temporary assembly of the mixer to determine more precisely the location of the assembly.
10. Re-seal the plaster line. Apply it to the trowel without leaving any air bubbles. Completely fill the space under the pipes. To obtain a good adhesion of the plaster, dust off the bleeding (with a vacuum cleaner), and wet with the sponge, to avoid the absorption of the water of the plaster by the masonry. When installing, attach the special cover (supplied with the appliance) to the mixer to protect it. The cardboard sheet is also used to protect the device. There is a slight shrinkage during drying of the plaster: it is therefore necessary to leave some bulge during the filling of the grooves. After drying, pass the trowel Berthelet to equalize the surface.
11. Fit the shower drain trap. The siphon installed here, with a ring, connects to the drain piping via a PVC pipe. The installation of a siphon, sometimes neglected, remains essential to avoid the rise of odors from the evacuation pipes. PVC pipes cut with a hacksaw and are assembled by glued joints (special glue for PVC). They must be stripped with steel wool before applying the glue with a brush. Locate the siphon accurately, temporarily placing the tray.
12. Trowel a mortar base and check for horizontality with the bubble level. This sole ensures a flat and solid seat at the raised breeze blocks of the shower tray. The PVC pipe penetrates into a drainage pipe of a larger diameter: the realization of a seal (plaster or cement) avoids the rise of odors.
13. Install the raised breeze blocks. The height of the latter depends on the level of the siphon, itself being a function of the position of the evacuation pipes. Always a minimum slope of 2 cm per meter is required. Check the horizontality of the blocks with a bubble level. Masonry in blocks must have the same dimensions as the shower tray.
14. Hit the cattail on the blocks to give them a good seat in the cement. The space between the blocks may remain empty or be filled with plaster rubble. Using a trowel, apply a layer of cement on the breeze blocks to seal the tray.
15. Push the bung nut into the hole in the pan and screw on.
16. Then put the tray on the blocks. When handling it, avoid shocks because it is fragile. Check the horizontality again.
17. The laying of the sheeting (here, vinyl paper) is done from the angle. Carry the width of a lé on the wall and draw the vertical which will guide you for the installation of the first lé.
18. Glue the wall with a notched spatula (special vinyl glue) and put the vinyl tape in place, then glue with a spatula to rub, from the center to the edges, to remove any air bubbles. Roll a wheel over the joints to smooth them. Place vinyl strips edge to edge. There must be no gaps between them. Wipe off the burrs with a cloth before they dry. Vinyl, easier to install than tiles, is also less expensive. Properly laid, it ensures a perfect seal.
19. Spread the vinyl around the mixer (after leveling the ceiling and flush with the tray).
20. Screw on his breastplate.
21. Screw on the mixer control knob. On this device, more advanced than the traditional dual control mixer (hot and cold water), a single lever allows the adjustment of the water temperature and the pressure of the jet. Fix the shower head mounting bracket to the wall above the mixer tap. The flexible hose is connected to the mixer outlet by screwing.
22. Perfect the shower attachment system by attaching a slide rail to adjust the height of the showerhead. Secure the apple clip (piercing and pegging).
23. Make a silicone gasket between the tank and the wall to ensure a perfect seal. This essential precaution prevents the infiltration of water, which causes often serious damage to the masonry under the tank. Attach two strips of adhesive paper to the tray and wall, and apply the product with a tube or cartridge extruder gun.
24. Then smooth the joint with your finger (soaked in dishwashing liquid); remove the adhesive strips after drying.
25. Fasten wood cleats against the wall to allow the cab to be installed. These cleats are fixed by drilling and pegging. They must be varnished or coated with a special product to protect them from moisture.
26. Fit the cab frame: it screws onto the cleats and sits down on the tray. Screw also the translucent screens.
27. Dress vinyl under the shower base. The connections between walls and blocks are cut in plywood.
28. When the shower is over, install the necessary accessories. There are cabins with sliding doors.
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