- Practical advice
- A mineral material
- Strong assets
- You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
- A classic pose
- Essential ventilation
- The building site
- Remove the old cladding
- Cut and adjust the cement slabs
- Re-seal the joints and fix the panels
- Screw the rafters
- Fix the ventilation grille
- Doubling with rafters and laying the profiles
- Proceed in the same way for the re-entrant angles
- Screw the profile at the bottom of the panels
- Lay the first twink
- Fix one screw per chevron
- Mark the location of the clapboard
- Cut with a saw or a grinder
- Avoid installing vertical joints
- Check the alignment
- Cut and adjust last wink
The "fiber cement" is an original material because of its composition. It offers many advantages for the doubling of external walls, isolated or not. As for the implementation, it is within the reach of all.
Cost: about 40 € per m2 all inclusive (25/30 € per person2 for clapboard alone)
Time: 30 to 40 m2 per day
Equipment: Drill-driver, jigsaw, radial saw or grinder, bubble level, bricklayer rule.
Supplies: profiles, screws 4 x 35 mm, cleats 65 x 50 mm.
Façade openings are subject to special treatment. The table is lined with profiles to completely cover the masonry, the possible insulation, the chevron and the clapboard, at the top, at the bottom and on the sides. This covering must also allow the circulation of the air. For
professionals, these profiles are made to measure, lacquered aluminum or galvanized steel. It is possible to make them yourself from aluminum sheet but the company is not easy.
A mineral material
Although its appearance resembles the wood it replaces in the realization of cladding, fiber cement is a mainly mineral material (without asbestos). To make a wink, the ingredients (cellulose, sand, cement, admixtures, white glue, silica) are mixed, molded, heated and pressed to obtain blades of 3.60 m long, 19 cm wide and 1 cm thick. thickness weighing just over 8 kg each.
Fiber cement is a stable and resistant material that is impervious to water. Microporous, it lets water vapor pass. Other benefits: It does not rot, rust or freeze. Its price places it at the level of a good autoclaved wooden cladding. The product used here (Eternit Eternclin) is available in a choice of 21 shades obtained by the application of an acrylic paint.
Side disadvantage, it is a cement-based material, whose cutting requires the use of adapted blades. A continuous rim diamond disc is recommended (remember to use an effective protection system to avoid breathing cutting dust: vacuum and mask).
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A classic pose
The clapboard fiber-cement (blades) arise on a perpendicular frame cleats like a traditional cladding. The uses are also similar: the fiber cement cladding is applied to all types of walls, insulated or not, whether wood, block or any other material.
Cladding is a technique well suited to renovation. It masks the defects of an existing wall (cracks, detachments), unifies the appearance of different facades (extensions) or protects a reported insulation. It can be placed in all directions.
The air must be able to circulate freely behind the clapboard. The space is determined by the framework cleats (or rafters), with a minimum thickness of 5 cm. This breakdown also concerns the frames of bays.
If the air must circulate, the passage to water and rodents must be forbidden. For water, sealing is ensured by overlapping one row on the other (30 mm) and placing a plastic strip under the vertical joints. As for rodents, the use of profiles for all singular points (departure, junction, embrasures, angles...) provides a continuous protection at the periphery. The manufacturer offers a range of aluminum profiles suitable for this type of cladding.
Frame battens (65 x 50 mm) are made of lumber, class II minimum (insecticide and fungicide protection). They are fixed at a maximum of 60 cm apart. The manufacturer proposes adjustable brackets for the case of a direct laying on insulation.
The clapboards are fixed at the top of each rafter by a countersunk stainless steel screw (Ø 4 x 35 mm) or a corrugated stainless steel nail (Ø 2.3 x 35 mm) placed on the pneumatic nailer. A second point in the lower part is added if the facade is strongly exposed to the wind. For manual nailing, the clinch must be pre-drilled (Ø 3 mm). The pose is from the bottom up. The first wink must be perfectly adjusted to avoid shifts afterwards. The clapboard is not nested from one row to the other, a catch of the horizontal is always possible.
The building site
This is the renovation of a wooden frame house. The façades are made of insulated wood sides and lined on each side by a continuous facing. Before laying the clapboard, it was therefore necessary to remove the old cladding, replace the braces and complete the insulation.
The new braces are made of wood fiber board and high density cement ("Duripanel" Eternit), screwed into the structural posts. These panels help to ensure the rigidity and stability of the walls. In the case of a site with low wind exposure and a site less than 10 m high, the clapboards are fixed with a single screw per frame cleat.
Remove the old cladding
The walls consist of an interior facing (gray), wood sections insulated with glass wool and protected by a degraded bracing (the old cladding is deposited).
Cut and adjust the cement slabs
The glass wool is replaced and the cement plates cut according to the spacing of the posts, then wedged and adjusted in both directions (vertical and horizontal).
Re-seal the joints and fix the panels
The panels are fixed by means of stainless screws placed every 20 cm approximately. Vertical joints are sealed with acrylic sealant to prevent air infiltration.
Screw the rafters
The rafters are arranged flush with all the singular points (angles) and then aligned within a maximum interval of 60 cm. They are screwed directly into the panels.
Fix the ventilation grille
The ventilation grid is a perforated angle placed abuts rafters. It lets the air through but not the rodents. It is screwed along the entire length of the cladding.
Doubling with rafters and laying the profiles
For an outgoing angle, first secure the frame rafters, overlapping one over the other. Then screw the profile cut in height and carefully aligned in the vertical direction.
Proceed in the same way for the re-entrant angles
Same technique to treat the incoming angles. They are first doubled by frame rafters that support the profile. It is screwed in turn every 30 cm.
Screw the profile at the bottom of the panels
The starting profile gives the right inclination to the first row. Screw it horizontally flush with the panels (it can be replaced by a 10 mm thick batten).
Lay the first twink
Set up the first blink. It is wedged against the corner profile and resting against the edge of the starter profile. The direction of laying, from left to right or vice versa, does not matter.
Fix one screw per chevron
Put one screw per chevron. Use stainless steel countersunk screws (4 x 35 mm), placed approximately 15 mm from the edge of the clapboard. Adjust the torque of the screwdriver to avoid damaging the material.
Mark the location of the clapboard
The interval between clapboard is 16 cm. Locate this spacing on the starting and ending rafters, up to the top of the wall. Then trace the laying lines to the chalk line.
Cut with a saw or a grinder
A radial saw equipped with a diamond blade with continuous rim is ideal for cutting clapboard. If not, use a grinder mounted disc. Protect yourself against dust.
Avoid installing vertical joints
Limit the number of vertical joints as much as possible. If necessary, cut the blink to the right of the chevron. Place a plastic tab to prevent water infiltration.
Check the alignment
During installation, check the alignment to prevent any misalignment. The ventilation space can be used to pass an electrical duct (external lighting for example).
Cut and adjust last wink
The last wink is cut to measure so as to perfectly cover the remaining space to be covered, while leaving a gap of about 20 mm, to allow ventilation.