- Practical advice
- Halogen lamps
- The settings
- Install the light block
- Determine the location,
- ... and raise the sensor
- Gain the electric wire
- Cleaning a "drop of water"
- Control panel
- Set the brightness threshold
Quickly laid, this outdoor lamp provides powerful lighting without consuming a single euro. It works in fact on the principle of solar energy, transformed into electricity by a series of photovoltaic cells.
● The device can act as a deterrent to intruders. With this in mind, it can easily be coupled with an alarm.
● To prevent oxidation of the contacts at the plug connection, place a film of universal grease on the metal.
● This lamp was purchased in DIY superstore (Leroy Merlin).
Providing low light and for a limited time, continuously, small solar garden lights quickly show their limits. This is not the case of this halogen version of 20 watts (Solar Sensor Light) which offers two weeks of operation without recharging.
● Totally autonomous thanks to its sensor, this luminaire is also equipped with a presence detector allowing, at choice, ignition cycles of thirty or sixty seconds. This makes it particularly suitable for places requiring only spot lighting. For example, to light a descent from an outside cellar, a porch, a portal, etc. In the rest position, this model remains in standby mode until it is pressed again.
The wall fixing of the two components of the lighting system - sensor and luminaire with sensor - presents no difficulty. Determine where to anchor the main unit. Made of ABS, it houses the battery and supports the projector, as well as the presence detector.
● Mounted on a ball joint, the projector is adjustable. The light beam can be precisely directed to the area to be illuminated. The radar is also pivot mounted, allowing operation at an angle substantially different from the axis of the projector.
● Protected from water under a door lintel or a roof projection, the main unit is fixed with two screws. In a masonry support, drill Ø 8 mm holes to accommodate dowels that will receive Ø 5 mm screws. Drill pilot holes Ø 4 mm if you are on wood.
● The sensor is installed within 4 m of the light source, this distance corresponding to the length of the power cord that connects the two elements. Fixed by three screws, in vertical or horizontal position, it is facing south in a clear place. A movable tab on a rack sets the azimuth perpendicular to the solar rays. Molded on the sensor side, the electrical cord ends at the other end with a plug-in connector in the female housing on the side of the light block.
With the general operating switch turned off, the battery is left on charge for forty hours. Then make the adjustments by placing on the "test" position the small button provided for this purpose on the motion detector. The brightness sensor is thus neutralized for the time necessary to adjust the sensitivity of the infrared sensor.
● The latter has the function of triggering the lighting of the lamp, when it perceives a sudden rise in temperature in its range of action: that is to say ten meters. A two-position slider lets you choose how long the lamp will last (30 "or 60").
● Finally, set the brightness knob to an average value. You will fine-tune this setting later to correct possible interference caused by strong public lighting or light from the home. With the settings completed, deactivate the "test" button and set the main switch to the "auto" position. The lamp is ready to work.
Install the light block
The lighting unit must be securely fixed in height. In the doorway, prefer an installation in the opening angle, the risk of tearing being limited to this place.
Determine the location,
The location of the solar collector is carefully determined so that the cells fully benefit from the daytime brightness. Near trees or high plantations, beware of shadows!
The sensor can, meanwhile, settle at height of man. In this case, building elements (gutter descent for example) will protect it from the risk of accidental shocks.
... and raise the sensor
The elevation of the sensor is adjusted using a plastic tab locked on one of the pins of the rack. As much as possible, its surface should be perpendicular to the sun's rays.
Gain the electric wire
A plastic pipe of Ø 12, used by the gardeners for their forcing tunnels, can be used as rigid sheath for the passage of the flexible electric wire connecting the sensor to the lighting unit.
Cleaning a "drop of water"
Electrical contacts in the external environment hate moisture, which oxidizes the metal. Remember to save a "drop of water" near the links, making the cable a loop down.
The "control board" of the lighting unit is reduced to a minimum: off (off) or automatic (auto) operation. The electric energy is free, you will not touch this button.
Set the brightness threshold
The last key to bring to the installation concerns the setting of the brightness threshold controlling the ignition. Both lighting times (30 "or 60") are pre-set by the manufacturer.