- Necessary material
- Choose a portal kit
- A precise statement of odds
- An option to be provided upstream
- Assemble the leaves
- Handyman's tip
- Anchorage of the crapaudines
- Handyman's Tips
- Fixing hinges and poles
- Lay the fence
- Lay the spans
- Installation of the motorisation
- Engine power
The maintenance of a gate and a wooden fence is quite restrictive and can sometimes be neglected. Over time, their structure ends up being reached and a simple repair is not enough anymore. It then becomes necessary to replace them.
- Aluminum gate of 1.50 x 3.44 m
- Hinges and bumper
- Wings and fence posts (0.70 x L. 10 m)
- Stainless steel hardware
- Motorization for double leaf gate
- 3 x 1.5 or 2.5 mm cable2 type U 1000 R2V or FRN 05 VV-U
- TPC red inserts Ø 40, 50 or 63 mm
- Warning grill in red plastic
- Shims of various thicknesses
- Chemical fixing resin
Cost: 3,300 € (gate kit + fence)
Time: 5 days
Equipment: meter, spirit level, square, ruler 2 m, drill, perforator, clamps, electrician tools, locksmith tools, mallet, trestles, wedges, syringe gun for putty cartridges...
Without an ongoing maintenance (repair, replacement of defective parts...) with suitable products (paint or stain), wooden gate and fence eventually degrade beyond repairable. However, it is impossible to remove a single bar or crossbar without disassembling the assembly. Given the magnitude of the task, many prefer to opt for a replacement. A fortiori when the fence is also concerned.
Choose a portal kit
In addition to the GSB and specialized retailers, distributors are only present on the Internet. They sell ready-to-install custom-made models and sometimes also self-assembled kit versions like the portal installed here (Box Olbo, LMC Ouvertures). The choice is then more limited, but with a few hours of work, this formula can achieve up to 40 \% savings on the price of the same product assembled in the factory.
A precise statement of odds
Whatever the material chosen, the replacement of a gate and a fence is within the reach of a careful handyman.
For the portal, it assumes at the beginning of raise the odds between pillars as well as the height ground coronation pillars.
For a fence consisting of a wall and spans, it is necessary to measure the total height and length of the wall, the height between the top of the wall and the pillar crowns, the length between pillars of departure and arrival, plus the case where appropriate, the distance between intermediate pillars. And do not hesitate to draw a sketch to carry the odds.
An option to be provided upstream
The engine is to consider from the start. Even if it is not installed when replacing the portal, the question may arise one day or the other. It is therefore better to think about it before, because the aluminum or PVC motorisable leaves require (as soon as they are manufactured in the factory) the presence of reinforcement in their intermediate or lower sleepers.
Assemble the leaves
- Always work flat on a stable support (trestles).
- Unpack, then locate the underbody boards to be mounted first and last.
- Nest them all.
- Align the blades, insert one of the cross members and screw it all the way along.
- Proceed in the same way for the second cross.
Rectify the full length of the razor blades (file or grinder) and deburr them so that the bead fits properly. This is essential to then allow the assembly of the amount.
- Fit the bars (upper part of the leaf) into a bar cross.
- Add opposite the other cross then the intermediate, hit all its length.
- Using large clamps, clamp the assembly with the underside of the gate, time to screw the amounts.
- Insert the cap screws into one of the uprights and place it at the end of the cross members.
- Engage the screws in the cells of the sleepers and screw them.
Anchorage of the crapaudines
- Identify the locations of the trunnions of the lower pivots: center them in relation to the pillars and check that their center distance (here 3.30 m) corresponds to the dimensions of the portal.
- Temporarily install the two wings.
- Protect the side jambs of the leaves and fit them on their tops.
- Strap them temporarily to the pillars.
- Check the play at the beat (12 mm) and check the plumb.
- Align the leaves along a ruler, then locate the final locations of the crapaudines.
- Trace also on the faces of the pillars the recesses necessary for the upper pivots.
- Remove the gate and drill the fastener holes (anchor bolts or metal dowels).
- Place the Thimble and screw the nuts (or screws), but without blocking them.
To prevent the leaves from rubbing on the ground, cut two hardwood spacers from the truss, used as a template.
Set them up as well as the leaves and recheck their plumb.
Fixing hinges and poles
- At the location previously identified, cut the stones from the first pillar to the grinder to smooth the surface (most pillars, however, have smooth surfaces).
- Present the corresponding leaf and control its horizontality.
- Dig again if necessary, possibly with hammer-hammer.
- An aluminum template was made to the profile of the hinge.
- Place it temporarily to evaluate the corrections to be made to the chisel in order to refine the flatness of the support.
- Do not screw the lag bolt completely to insert the hinge mount from behind.
- Sash the leaf again around the pillar and tighten the hinge retaining screw.
- Present one of the spans against the pillar.
- Mark the attachment points up and down.
- Practice two grooves to the grooving machine and hollow out the hammer-chisel.
Lay the fence
- Present the span and control its plumb in both directions (left-right and front-back).
- If necessary, correct the dwellings in the chisel and hammer pier.
- Screw the threaded rod of the post.
- With adhesive, mark the length to be fixed on the masonry side.
- Remove the rod and using the span, locate the location of the post on the wall.
- Also use adhesive on the drill to indicate the drilling depth.
- Drill the wall.
- Dust the hole and fill it with chemical fixing resin.
- Place the rod to the mark.
- Wipe down the resin.
- Remove the adhesive, arrange the washer and screw the post.
- To prevent the threaded rod from turning in the resin, hold it with pliers.
- Check the verticality of the post and rectify it without waiting for the resin to dry.
- After that, postpone the ratings to install the next post.
Lay the spans
- After drying, check that the amounts of the spans are installed without forcing on both sides of the pole.
- If the cut made on the wall is not enough, rectify it with the chisel.
- Install the spans two by two (here delivered in three sections of 1,702 mm and two sections of 1,649 mm to assemble).
- Strap them temporarily on one of the posts in place.
- Hold them with elastics on the central pole, the time to put on its dressing.
- Place the cladding over the post and engage it on both sides of the spans.
- Take it down with a hammer and a wedge.
- Arrange a cloth in the clothing.
- Thus no risk of losing the nuts that correspond to the assembly screws; to block then with a male key.
- Adhere the end of the crosspieces of the end spans with adhesive and engage them in the pillars.
- This prevents mortar and water from gaining the inside of the profiles.
- On the garden side, screw the cladding in the posts and fit the hats at the top of the cladding.
- Use a synthetic mallet, and do not hit too hard.
Installation of the motorisation
- Given the section of the pillars (65 x 65 cm) digging them with hammer-hammer to partially embed the motors.
- Pass at least one sheath from one pillar to another.
- Since the power supply is made from the first motor, it must be routed to the second via a cable comprising the required number of conductors (here 5 x 1.5 mm2).
- Disengage the engines and add the arms without blocking them.
- Deploy with the required arrow: 18 cm from the intermediate pivot to the closed leaf.
- Record the locations of the screeds on the back of the sleepers.
- Then lock the arms around the axes of the motors.
- Point and drill the holes in the lower crosspieces of the leaves.
- Screw them with the clevises and hang up the arms by their end pivot.
- Make the following electrical connections: power supply to motor 1, start to 2, supply of flashing light and cells.
- Identify the position of the cells: on the internal faces of the pillars (street side).
- Route the wiring to the cells and connect them.
- Finish the installation by connecting and fixing a flash light with a power cable that is partially concealed in the joints of the pillar.
The engines of a portal work in 12 or 24 V but they are powered by 230 V from the distribution table (or a secondary table).
More precisely: a switch or differential circuit breaker high sensitivity (30 mA), followed by a circuit breaker (capacity indicated in the manual of the operator). The power cable then flows into a TPC red sheath Ø 50 or 63 mm. Buried in 20 cm of sand at the bottom of a trench dug more than 80 cm deep (1 m under a walkable alley), this sheath must be indicated by a red plastic warning grid.
Cable and sheath come in line with one of the motors (or a control cabinet connected to it). The same type of cable is used to connect the motors to each other, via a TPC sheath poured into the reinforced concrete threshold that joins the pillars.