The construction of this family barbecue uses various achievements that we have reported in our masonry sheets. Thus the work rests on a slab cast at the end of the terrace, 8 to 10 cm thick. On top was mounted a frame in blocks blocking the carcass of the barbecue. It is from this base that we will proceed to the realization of a work at the same time aesthetic, functional and practical since with a double focus for horizontal or vertical grills, it adds a rotisserie-pin removable and has a large bench.
- Meter and pencil
- Bubble level
- Joint trowel
- Locking pliers
- Metal saw
- Arc welding device
1. The frame of the barbecue was made by mounting 21 blocks with broken joints on a slab scraped and dry. Thus were formed two niches that will serve as reterres for the late-burning wood and thicker wood for embers for cooking. Ratings, levels and measures have been verified. It is now a question of sinking above, a slab which will constitute the base of the hearth and the bench.
2. Create a bottom of boards on top of each niche assembled by two cleats and each maintained by four standing cleats, cut to the necessary length so that boards and tops of the blocks are at the same level.
3. Nail four planks all around the tower so that they form a formwork intended to pour over the entire surface, (planks and blocks) a concrete slab 5 cm thick.
4. Place on the bottom of the formwork and in its length, evenly spaced concrete bars.
5. Then fill in a single operation, the template with a concrete composed of sand, water, cement and chippings. Reminder of the dosages: 200 liters of water, 800 kg of sand, 1100 kg of gravel and 350 kg of cement make it possible to make 1 m3 of concrete.
6. When the template is heavily filled, take a board longer than the width of the formwork and perfectly straight edge. Make the draw by resting on the top of the boards of the template and going from left to right and vice versa, the board you shoot at the same time. Thus the concrete is well distributed and properly leveled and leveled. Collect the surplus fallen around the template, if only to avoid stepping on it. Tap on the edges of the formwork to "vibrate" the concrete and eliminate small air bubbles.
7. Once the slab is poured, it must be allowed time to dry with the precautions imposed by weather conditions: protection of the sun or rain. You can then begin dressing bricks with the decorative bricks that you will raise around. Use wooden battens of 10 x 10 mm section to perfectly calibrate the joints ((assembly with broken joints).
8. The assembly of the two bricks intended to dress the edge of the blocks in facade is an assembly game between butt and paneresse. The picture shows the positioning of bricks on mortar bed and wooden battens for horizontal joints. Remember to smooth the vertical joints as you mount with this fine trowel designed for this purpose and called "joints" and pass it on the horizontal joints as soon as you remove the cleats.
9. To make the bench above the slab, lay the bricks on edge (except those that make up the edge), after spreading a bed of mortar. Check the levels.
10. Use refractory bricks and mortar to make the fireplace. Keep the system of cleats for the thickness of the joints because they assure you of their regularity which will contribute to the aesthetic aspect of the whole.
11. With 10 mm round iron, make the 16 elements of the horizontal grid placed in the width of the fireplace and resting on the bricks of the two side walls. Place a row of bricks in the middle of the fireplace to support the spacing brackets (40 x 40 mm).
12. Place a bed of mortar on the side support walls and assemble a new row of bricks. The ends of the horizontal grill elements will be sealed on the fireplace. Once the mortar is well taken, remove the wedges and the row of central bricks laid blank. it is also possible to use a removable grid (take it thick enough) which will rest on a row of side brick, added on each side of the interior of the fireplace. This avoids cutting and equidistant wedging of the round irons and gives more convenient access to the fireplace itself.
13. To maintain the second vertical grid, arrange and seal in the brick joints, short wedges, made in the same round iron used for the elements of the horizontal grill.
14. Mount the last row of firebricks that will seal the high wedges of the vertical grill which will be removable.
15. Make a pair of stirrups in a flat iron with a clamp and a vice capable of straddling the thickness of a brick.
16. Then bend a second flat iron but smaller as it will serve as a support bracket for the spit. Warm it a bit to make it easier to shape. Make two because they will be welded on the two large stirrups.
17. Make the welds to hold the small stirrup on the middle of the outer flange of the larger one.
18. Carefully grind the weld bead after checking its strength and then adjust the gap of the large stirrup with a brick. The caliper must have sufficient strength to hold well in place but still allow removal with the spindle, which is why it is not sealed.
19. Put the two spit holders on each side wall of the fireplace
20. Elevate the cladding walls (decorative brick) of the fireplace walls (firebrick). The flat and slatted mounting and the profile help to soften and ventilate the overall structure.
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