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In perfect harmony with the house, this awning signed Patrick DEMACEDO, enhances the front door and protects the threshold. Of generous dimensions, one can take one's meals there or rest there in peace from the first heat.

Build a terrace awning

LEVEL: initiated
REALIZATION: approx. 1 week
COST: approx. 763 €
MINI EQUIPMENT: bricklayer tools, wheelbarrow, handsaw, concrete mixer, drill, ripper, jigsaw.

See the plan of this realization (in pdf): An awning-terrace: the plan

Both aesthetic and practical, this arrangement enriches the approach of the house while facilitating access to the garden. Its realization begins with a terrace built on one level with the threshold of entry. Delimited by low walls surmounted by a concrete screed, this one makes it possible to compensate the slope of the ground with strong declivity. Two stairs at each end of the terrace replace the existing access steps, which disappear under the slab.

■ Mounted on brackets on the pinion, the awning is supported at the front by three pillars resting on brackets sealed in the screed. The framework, entirely made from beams and rafters made of fir treated with an autoclave, uses simple carpentry techniques to implement. The roof, with a single inclined section, is covered with tiles identical to those of the main roof. A PVC gutter with its descent, and a scalloped edge board complete the covering of the awning. The dimensions of the plan are of course adaptable to the available space. Those of the finished slab, however, correspond to standardized lengths of joists, in order to avoid tedious cuts.

Foundations and masonry

The wall surrounding the terrace consists of a row of 20 cm blocks: it supports three beams associated with concrete slabs. The two side stairs are likewise framed by advances in breeze blocks. Made level with the threshold of the entrance door, the slab is made of reinforced concrete with a mesh welded and poured over the entire surface.

■ If you are starting from an already paired floor, determine the outline of the deck. Seal a block at each corner and, aligning them with the chalk, build your wall. The number of rows will depend on the height to be made up. From bare ground, mark the boundaries of the structure with pegs and cords. Then dig a peripheral excavation 20 cm deep. You will place reinforcing wire of Ø 10 mm, and pour a concrete footing dosed to 300 kg of cement per m3. Before the final take, establish a peripheral chaining in blocks laid level.

Seal the blocks on a masonry floor

Seal the blocks on a masonry floor

A belt wall enhances the terrace at the entrance threshold, encompassing the old access staircase. The blocks are here sealed on an existing masonry floor. Otherwise, you will have to perform searches to obtain a stable chaining.

■ Place the three beams on the belt (or more if the width requires it) and fill with the slabs. Then climb the stairs and their progress in blocks. You can also make these solid concrete steps in plank formwork trimmed with all-rounder. To make the slab, establish a belt formwork at the edge of the slabs and make a first pour of concrete to block these elements between them.

■ After drying, reinforce the formwork in preparation for pouring the screed, 80 mm thick. This, respecting a slope of flow of 2.5 mm per meter in the width of the terrace. Place the reinforcing mesh, with welded mesh of 100 x 100 mm, before pouring a concrete dosed with 350 kg of cement per m3. From time to time, raise the mesh of the still fresh concrete so that it maintains a median position in the screed. Let a little pull before equalizing the rule, then the trowel. As a finish, sprinkle with pure cement and smooth with a large trowel (a useless step if you plan to lay a tile). Nose steps and sharp edges are rounded with a quarter-round iron. Before final drying of the concrete, do not forget to seal the six legs of the pillars (in flat iron of 5 x 35 mm, pierced with two holes Ø 8 mm).

Pour concrete on stairs and terrace

Pour concrete on stairs and terrace

The concrete is poured in stride on the stairs and the terrace. The fir formwork that the belt takes into account a slope of water flow. Take advantage of the setting time to place the anchors of the pillars.


It is structured around three breakdowns (ridge, intermediate and sand pit) supported by three supporting pillars and two brackets of sconces. Roughing, under-roofing paneling, asphalt insulation and Roman tiles cover the whole. Cut the pillars into beams of 150 x 150 mm section and chamfer their edges. Then practice at their vertices the different notches of assemblies. Arrange them and attach them to the legs with Ø 8 x 80 mm lag bolts, raising them 30 mm to prevent rotting of the wood. To keep them upright, use temporary braces. The assembly of the 60x175 mm section of the sandstone is carried out on the posts using M14 threaded rods, nuts and washers.

Install pillars and sandpit fault

Install pillars and sandpit fault

The pillars are put in place and fixed on their supports. The sandbox tip is installed with threaded rods, nuts and washers at the top of the pillars. The set is held vertical using braces, time to install the consoles.

■ Each console consists of a 60 x 80 mm wall sconce, an equally-sized burrow and a 60 x 175 mm entrance. These pieces are assembled by tenons and mortises, reinforced by ankles. Their edges are joined by stopped moldings, executed with the router. Drill two Ø 8 mm holes in each punch for wall anchor studs. Mounted in the middle of the entrance, a tenon shoe supports the intermediate failure. Its sharp cut will be traced on the spot using a chevron placed on the purlins.

■ Using studs, anchor both brackets to the wall. In abutment on the pillars, attach the two links to the sandbox with M8 x 80 mm lag bolts. Use a spirit level for these operations. Place the ridge tip mortise on the punches and dowel it to the wall. Depending on the desired slope, nail a spacer of adequate cross-section. Determine, with a chevron, the cut of the hooves of entry and peg them in the mortises. Always with chevrons, position and assemble the intermediate tip on the hooves with lag screws.

Tire the intermediate breakdown

Tire the intermediate breakdown

The intermediate failure is tugged on hooves assembled on the links. At this stage of the work, the framework receives two layers of tinted stain fungicide and insecticide.

■ To reinforce the solidity of the assembly, mount struts between the pillars and the sandpit with lag bolts. The rafters, 60 x 80 mm, are set up with a spacing of 420 mm. Use two calibrated spacers to adjust your spacing: simply move them as work progresses. Provide tips 110 mm long to attach the rafters to the purlins.

Nail the rafters on the purlins

Nail the rafters on the purlins

The rafters are nailed to the purlins with a spacing of 420 mm. To simplify this series work, without having to trace or measure, use two calibrated spacers. You will move them as and when editing.

Covers and finishes

Paneling fir, previously stained, are nailed to the rafters. Protect this underlayer with an insulating film (bituminous paper for example). Unrolled, it is held by counter battens (battens of 27 x 40 mm), aligned on the rafters and nailed on songs. 27 x 27 mm battens are nailed to the previous ones for laying tiles. Their spacing is a function of the level of the tiles used (in our case: 27.5 mm for Redland type Roman tiles). Lay the tiles, row by row, starting from the bottom.

■ Right and left bank tiles and a large mortar flashing on the front of the house complete the roof. On the front, nail a 32 x 180 mm edge board at the end of the rafters. To decorate it, fringe the ripples or other patterns with a jigsaw. You still have to install the gutter and its descent to channel the rainwater, and to apply two layers of stain finish with a light sanding between the two.

Laminate and lay the underlay

Laminate and lay the underlay

Point the wood-paneled underlay on the rafters. For convenience you will lasurerez both sides of these blades before installation.


■ You can use the steps on either side of the stairs to install decorative planters.

■ On steep ground, a guardrail is essential around the terrace, especially in the presence of young children.

Video Instruction: How to Build a Retractable Awning