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Summer is coming and with him the good times in the garden. How about a bar on wheels, which will avoid many comings and goings when serving the aperitif? Built in materials suitable for outdoor use, this one will last for years.

Build a garden bar with wheels

Level: initiated
Realization: 1 week-end
Cost: 100 to 150 €
mini equipment: circular saw (or cut-in-store), jigsaw, router, drill driver, various hand tools.
See the plan of this realization (in pdf): A garden bar with wheels: the plan

Casing, partitioning and plywood locker

This rolling bar is a deep box made of plywood, inserted into a solid wooden cradle with wheels and stretchers. Inside, a partitioning makes it possible to stabilize the bottles. Above is a compartmentalized locker that holds glasses and towels. When these are out, the locker can be returned to its slot to serve as a cutting board. Finally, two flaps close the set. In the open position, they lie horizontally on the stretchers and then act as shelves.
Pedestals, lockers, partitions and flaps are made of 18 mm plywood with two phenolic resin surfaces. This material, known as the Betofilm brand, is usually intended for multipurpose formwork. It does not require any finishing. Solid woods are planed cleats purchased in a DIY store. As part of this realization, they are largely worked by hand, a good opportunity to revise... or put you there!

The framework

The cradle has four uprights, two stretchers, two sleepers and two struts. Stretchers and struts form a horizontal frame assembled by straddling. The amounts are fixed to the stretchers by tenon and mortise. The sleepers, arranged parallel to the stretcher (70 mm above the wheels), are also tenoned in the uprights, which they maintain the spacing. The assemblies are made of vinyl glue. The eyewheels are directly tugged at the end of the feet.
The wood used is pine, but other species are usable, including beech, perfect from a mechanical point of view if it is carefully varnished to resist outdoors. The ideal native woods are oak, alas dear, and robinia (fake acacia), less expensive, but harder to find.
The available wood sections vary from one shop to another. If you do not find the required dimensions, do not panic: the structure is simple, you can easily change the ratings, and avoid tedious wrecking operations. Make sure that the struts are positioned in the stretchers so that the flaps are flush as intended; some plane blows may be necessary.

The box and the locker

The box, 18 mm plywood, consists of a bottom, two long sides and two small, assembled by screwing. Its dimensions allow to insert it precisely between the elements of the frame. Its partitioning into six elements is assembled mid-wood, without gluing.
The locker, composed and assembled in the same way, is made of panels 15 mm thick. Its short sides are equipped with handles machined in the mass. It is thus easy to extract from the box, in which it rests on four cleats screwed into the corners.
Returned to its housing, it serves as a cutting board, a hole drilled in its bottom gives a catch to put it back to its original position. Its partitioning is assembled by screwing. The clearance between rack and box is 2 mm in width and in length.
The flaps (panels of 18 mm), are also equipped with a circular handle pierced in the mass. They are articulated to the stretchers by pivot hinges. Their arrangement is such that in open position they rest flush shafts, resting on the spacers whose thickness is suitable for this purpose.

Preparation of the panels

Plywood panels coated with phenolic resin are quite aggressive with the sharpening of tools. If your seller is equipped to debit the parts, do not hesitate. If you do it yourself, make sure the squares are squared. Perfectly straight edges are essential for secure screw connections.
Locate and trace the location of the binding notches in the cabinet bulkheads, open them with the jigsaw and eliminate chunk waste. The handles (flaps and locker) are pierced with a flat wick. Handles on the short sides of the locker are finished with a jigsaw.
To avoid inversions in the face-to-face connections of the box, rack and small partition assemblies, take the time to locate the screws. Small frame presses facilitate temporary assembly if necessary. Drill the pilot holes, machine the counters of the screw heads. Then screw permanently.
Carefully locate the location of the pivots on the side of the flaps. Machine their housing at the router equipped with a straight cutter of adequate diameter; to allow subsequent fitting of the fitting, the notches are open towards the outer edge.

Chamfer planing edges of the boxes and flaps. On these, the two edges connecting the pivots are rounded to facilitate rotation. A manual planer is enough, but you can also use the router with a quarter round cutter. If you want to cut the edges of the partitions, do it before assembly.

Cut out the elements and mount them blank

Put all the parts according to the measurements indicated on the flow sheet and cut them with the miter saw or with a cut box. Then carefully lay out all the pieces: Locate the truscan the location of the eight tenons and mortises and the four assemblies to bunching. Then hatch or color the waste to avoid unpleasant confusions.
Cut the tenons with the saw, using a cutting box for the levelings. Be sure to cut the right side of the line to avoid loose joints. The burrs, also rough sawed, are hollowed out with chisel and chisel. The mortises, open to the drill, are squared with these same tools.
The location of the pivots in the stretchers must be as carefully spotted as it has been for the flaps. As for the latter, it is open to the router, which allows to obtain a perfectly flat notch bottom. The ends are then squared with a small chisel or a chisel. Drill the pilot hole to screw the casters to the ends of the feet.

Make a first blank mount and check the squareness. Assemble the stretchers to the spacers and each pair of studs to a crossbar with vinyl glue. After drying put everything together. Break the edges and slightly round the ends of the stretchers. Lightly sand the assembly and pass on the framework two layers of protective varnish. After drying, screw the pins into the shafts.

Final assembly

Engage the box in the frame. Position it precisely 19 mm from the upper edge of the stretchers. Screw the box from the inside into the frame, then in turn the four support brackets into the corners; they will hide the previous screws. Thread the movable fittings of the pivots into their fixed part, engage the flaps on top and screw the assembly. Now all you have to do is fix the wheels with lag screws and then put the partitions in place. And finally to serve the aperitif!

Drill the bottom of the locker

Drill the bottom of the locker

Once cut, most panels require little machining. The bottom of the rack, for example, is simply drilled to catch it when it is placed upside down in the bar.

Drill the handles

Drill the handles

The handles of the locker are pierced at each end, with a flat wick. The waste is then removed with a jigsaw. Those of flaps, shorter, are pierced in the same way.

Trace and cut the struts of the compartments

Trace and cut the struts of the compartments

The struts of the compartments of the box are traced and then cut with a jigsaw. The fall is with a chisel (big chisel with wood). The precision of the work will depend squaring.

Assemble box and locker

Assemble box and locker

Box and locker are assembled by screwing. The songs of the pieces must be cut perfectly squared. For a neat mounting, pre-drill and mill the housing of the screw heads.

Nest the elements

Nest the elements

If the cuts have been made accurately, a mallet may be necessary to fit the elements of the partition. Of course intercalate a wedge martyr not to damage the material.

Assemble the partition of the glass bin

Assemble the partition of the glass bin

Unlike the compartmentalization of the box (for bottles), that of the glass bin, less split, is assembled by screwing. The whole is in turn screwed in place, from the outside.

Break the edges

Break the edges

The protruding edges of the box and the rack are broken by a blow of the planer or the router with a chamfer mill. On the flaps, the edge between the pivots is rounded to allow rotation.

Machining insertion notches

Machining insertion notches

The notches of insertion of the pivots are machined to the router. As they are open on the outer edge, the two flaps can be flanged side by side to be machined simultaneously.

Track and trace assemblies

Track and trace assemblies

After cutting to length, establish the elements of the frame. Locate the assemblies and trace them to the truscan and to the square. Mark the scrap so as not to interchange tenons and strings.

Roughing the mortises

Roughing the mortises

The mortises are roughed freehand with the drill, taking care to hold the machine vertically. The cheeks are then cleaned with a chisel, then the ends are squared to the chisel.

Cut the leveling of the tenons

Cut the leveling of the tenons

The leveling of the tenons is cut with a saw in a cutting box. Spindle milling is possible, but why deprive yourself of the pleasure of working by hand in this simple realization?

Eliminate the scrap of the tenons

Eliminate the scrap of the tenons

This saw makes it possible to eliminate the scrap of the tenons and to rough up the stretches of the stretchers. The only difference is that in the first case we cut outside the plot and inside in the second.

Eliminate discarding of stumps

Eliminate discarding of stumps

The discarding of the straddling is eliminated by alternately using the chisel, across the fibers, and the chisel, at the end. Keep the chisel sharp enough to cut the fibers without crushing them.

Machining the notches of the pivot

Machining the notches of the pivot

The notches of the pivots are machined in the stretchers to the router, as for the flaps. Their corners are then squared with chisel. The pivots are set up with small VBA screws.

Drill the pilot hole of the wheels

Drill the pilot hole of the wheels

After locating the centers at the lower end of the feet, the pilot hole of the wheels is pierced freehand. A slight misalignment is acceptable, but be careful not to deviate too much.

sand down

sand down

If the wood is not perfect, a first sanding before assembly may be necessary. The belt sander is fine, but be careful: it is quick to take too much material.

Assemble stretchers and spacers

Assemble stretchers and spacers

The assembly takes place in two stages. Stretchers and spacers are assembled separately, with a ratchet strap. A piece of cardboard placed in each corner will avoid crushing the corners.

Maintain and assemble uprights and sleepers

Maintain and assemble uprights and sleepers

The uprights and ties are two other subsets, held together with a clamp and two martyrs. In all cases, use a square to control the assembly.

Check assemblies

Check assemblies

If the subassemblies have been correctly assembled, the final assembly, after drying of the first collages, poses no problem. A "blank" control is essential before gluing.

Break the edges

Break the edges

The end of the stretchers is rounded to the sanding wedge. All edges are otherwise broken. Do not leave any splinters or roughness, especially on the spacers, which will act as handles.

Varnish the framework

Varnish the framework

After dedusting, the frame is varnished. The bar is intended for outdoor use, preferably use a "marine" varnish or polyurethane anti-UV. Weed between the first and second layers.

Engage the box

Engage the box

After complete drying of the varnish, the box is engaged between the feet. Position it from the top edge of the stretchers, about 19 mm so that the flaps close completely, with a clearance of about 1 mm.

Fix the brackets

Fix the brackets

The box being screwed to the feet, the brackets are in turn fixed in the corners. A light screwing is enough: they have no mechanical role and serve only to support the glasses rack.

Place the flaps

Place the flaps

The movable part of the pivots is engaged in their fixed element. The flaps are threaded over. Hold them vertically to place the screws (the pilot holes will have been drilled beforehand).

Put the casters

Put the casters

Put the casters. Do not use any: they must be strong enough for outdoor use without premature wear and big enough to not stab on any gravel.


Video Instruction: HOW TO MAKE AN OUTDOOR PARTY BAR CART - Woodworking Projects