- A wooden bed for the room
- The structure
- Flow rates
- The signs
- The sleepers
- The amounts
- The spars
- Latest machining
- To length and delineate the pieces
- Make the mortises
- Chantourner and equalize the sleepers
- Glue and flatten planks
- Machine the flower beds
- Make a blank edit
- Gather the parts before assembly
- Mold or soften the edges
- Screw the hardware between the head and the footboard
- Affix the spacers on cradle fittings
- Sand and apply a coat of varnish
- The choice of solid wood
- To sing
He borrows the "rustic" furniture the seriousness of a solid wood manufacturing and sober lines, just enhanced by fretted cross and finished amounts in diamond point. Offering a bed of 190 x 90 cm, it is here for a teenager who can use it until adulthood.
Achievement: approx. 1 week
Equipment: workshop or portable machines, clamping tools
Cost: about € 215
See the plan of this realization (in pdf): a single bed: the plan
A wooden bed for the room
Pine or fir is one of the most accessible wood species (in terms of cost and availability) to the amateur carpenter, and home-made products are easy to match with commercial furniture. In this respect, this bed offers an ideal opportunity for a first important work. Christophe CUNY made it using small workshop machines but all operations, except for planing / planing, can be done with power tools. To avoid splinters (common with softwoods), a piece "martyr" that will receive the chips in place of the machined element will get you out of trouble...
Simple in its main lines, the bed consists of a head and a foot connected by two longitudinal members. Head and foot each have two uprights and two ties assembled by tenons / mortises.
These pieces are grooved on their inner side for the recess of a flatbed panel. The two upper crosspieces are framed in a policeman's hat. The head is distinguished from the foot only by its higher uprights and its wider panel.
The panels consist of planks assembled by multiple splines. But nothing prohibits an assembly by grooves and tongues, or by fixed grooves and false tongues (invisible at the level of the flower beds). If these operations still seem a little complicated, you can opt for solid panels made of planks glued to flat joints, or even replace them with plywood plywood.
The beams are assembled with the head and the foot of the bed by means of specific fittings, reinforced by two trunnions at each end. Two spacers, supported by "cradle" fittings, stiffen the assembly. In the gaps, batten lengths are attached to each beam to support the slatted frame. It will be advisable to acquire it before starting the manufacture: the standardization of the dimensions being sometimes approximate, it will be necessary to modify accordingly some dimensions of the bed (see card of flow on the plan).
Correct and cut the pieces to the final dimensions with the exception of boards for panels, which you will leave a little margin. During cutting operations, protect the woods with a martyr placed at the outlet of the cut which will avoid splinters.
If you are not able to carry out the planing / planing operations yourself, you can entrust them to a friend equipped with the appropriate equipment or to a local carpenter. Otherwise, it will remain the possibility to buy pre-planed wood in GSB.
Begin by machining the splines, on one or both edges depending on the positioning of the boards composing the panels. At router and ripper, carefully adjust the height of the cutter and test on falls: you will avoid a waste of time in sanding to make up for unsightly offsets. If you are working on the router, it is imperative to mount it to a fixed position (under a table).
Perform a blank edit by locating the reference face. You will avoid the level differences during the final assembly. Once the panels are glued, tighten them in both directions (vertical and horizontal) to ensure their perfect flatness. Immediately wipe off any burrs of glue and wait for complete drying before recutting them to their recess format.
After sanding the joints, mill the borders to the router or router. If you use the latter, it is better to mount it under the table again. It is recommended to varnish the panels before assembly, to avoid appearance defects in case of removal of wood.
Machine the tenons at the ends of the sleepers. If you do not have a router and a tenoning carriage, you can cut the shoulder with a circular saw and remove the scrap with a hand saw or band saw with a parallel guide and a stop depth.
You can also proceed to the router equipped with a straight cutter. Bride side by side, flat on the workbench, crossbeams and a coin-martyr of the same thickness. Trace the shoulders simultaneously on the four pieces and attach a guide ruler parallel to the line: its spacing depends on the dimensions of the sole of the machine and the diameter of the cutter. Stopper set to the required depth, first mill the shoulder side then gradually remove the waste keeping a bit of wood at the end of the workpiece, to maintain the soleplate resting on both sides of the cutter. Do not remove the rest until the end of work, making sure that the router is horizontal.
Cut each pair to the indicated length (for the head and foot) and trace the location of the mortises for the tenons of the sleepers. You can dig them with the mortiser or, as before, with the router. In the latter case, mount a straight bit and equip the tool with its lateral guide. Finally, square the angles with the chisel (unless you have a slot chisel square or chain), unless you prefer to round (the grater) the tenons of the sleepers.
To cut the "diamond points", you have several possibilities here too. With a radial saw or "table saw", adjust the orientation of the blade or fence according to the raised angle on the plane. A small square guide, made for the occasion, will facilitate your work. Finally, machine the router or the router, the moldings stopped on the vertical edges.
Start by drawing on the uprights the positioning of the side members. Then, after a precise marking at the ends of the latter, drill (if possible using a stab) two logging holes. Equip them with centering points to project the axes of the holes on the uprights, which you will in turn cut.
Then locate on the inner side of the longitudinal members, in pencil or truscan, the location of the three support brackets of the bed base. Once cut to their respective length, drill and mill them at regular intervals to screw them on. Note also in the intervals, the position of the fittings receiving the spacers (which must not exceed the level of the cleats).
In the posts and crosspieces, cut the recess groove of the panels. If you operate the router, preferably use a rolling disc cutter and dig in several passes, the sole of the machine well supported on the flat amounts. You will work more cleanly than with a straight cutter, even of the desired width. Then break the edges of the posts, crosspieces and rails by sanding or with a quarter-round or chamfer milling cutter.
Before gluing, make a "blank" mounting of the head and footboard. When final assembly, do not rub the panels that must remain free in their groove. Put to dry between clamps (with intercalated drops): this done, reinforce each of the joints by pegging them. Using the "Cradle" fittings as a template, draw dovetails at the end of the spacers, and cut them with a fine-toothed saw.
It remains to assemble the head and the footboard by the side members, then to set up the assembly fittings (in two parts). Do not rub the trunnions so that the furniture remains removable!
Sand and peel carefully, to 240 grit. As shown, the bed has received two coats of satin varnish "waxed wood" appearance. But nothing forbids, as is common, to apply a tinted stain, or to paint everything.
If you paint or varnish, pay attention to the perfect drying of the panels at the groove. This would prevent the wood from playing normally.
To length and delineate the pieces
The radial saw is convenient for lengthening beams, sleepers and uprights. On the other hand, it does not allow deliming which must be done with a circular saw, preferably in a fixed position.
Make the mortises
The mortiser is, of course, ideal for digging mortises. But you can also proceed with the router or use a chisel, which allows to obtain right away rectangular mortises.
Chantourner and equalize the sleepers
3 The two upper rails are fretted separately but tied together. The work is done here with the eccentric sander by keeping them on edge in a vice.
Glue and flatten planks
When assembling the panels, be sure to stick the boards together while ensuring their perfect flatness. To do this, tighten them (at the ends and at mid-length) between two cleats.
Machine the flower beds
To machine flower beds at the router, placing the tool underneath will make up for defects if the wood is badly plated. The protections have been removed for the photo but they are unavoidable.
Make a blank edit
Make a blank mounting before digging the grooves of the panels: at this point you can correct a possible assembly fault. Remember to control the squareness of the whole.
Gather the parts before assembly
The bed ready to be mounted: the head and the foot are constituted and their amounts pierced for the purpose of logging. The spars are equipped with trunnions, support brackets and various hardware.
Mold or soften the edges
The top of the uprights ends in diamond point, cut at an angle of 22.5°. Their edges received a quarter-round molding stopped; those of the sleepers and spars are softened.
Screw the hardware between the head and the footboard
The assembly of the side members with the head and the footboard must be done avoiding the constraints. Which involves screwing the fittings gradually in turn, without tightening because it remains the finish.
Affix the spacers on cradle fittings
The spacers are based on fittings "cradles" which they marry the form of dovetail. They are not there to support the bed frame but to prevent the side rails from moving away.
Sand and apply a coat of varnish
The assembled structure: a final dismantling is necessary to sand the pieces then apply two layers of varnish. When varnishing, be careful not to stick the panels in the grooves.
The choice of solid wood
In a child's room, the bed is often used as a reading room, so it is important to feel good about it. Solid wood will bring warmth and well-being in a relaxing environment.
On a piece of strong cardboard, draw half of the cocked hat shape of the top rails. The template cut with precision, mark its outline symmetrically on the two pieces of wood. Then sing them with a jigsaw or ribbon, then even the songs. You can do the work with the belt sander, the sanding roller or the eccentric sander: in any case, even the two pieces at the same time holding them, depending on the method adopted, flat or edge.