- Necessary material
- Make or make the cuts
- Prefer a dressing room kit ready to assemble
- One organization per zone
- Swinging or sliding?
- The elements of the wardrobe
- Preparation of the elements of the dressing room
- Tip to pierce cleats from a wardrobe to the router
- Assembly of the main body
- Tip for stalling a wardrobe
- Creation of the upper box
- Settings and installation of doors
This arrangement is part of a false recess, delimited by a masonry wall and a wall of facade. A storage made of melamine chipboard, except for drawers, purchased as a kit.
Necessary materialDifficulty: 2/4
Cost: about 500 €
Time: 1 to 2 days
Equipment: meter, ruler, pencil, spirit level, carpenter's corner, truscan, mallet, chisel, circular saw + guide rail, electric plane, drill-driver, wood drill + depth ring, built-in drill, gaskets, cartridge gun, iron, sandpaper...
The main body of this wardrobe measures approximately 160 cm wide and 230 cm high. Above, a box occupies the residual space up to the ceiling and marries the recess formed by a rolling shutter formwork. The whole is closed by four hinged doors mounted on invisible hinges.
The partition defining the location of the wardrobe was constructed of plaster tiles 7 cm thick. The 60 cm wide tiles offer an ideal depth for this type of development.
Make or make the cuts
When you have the right tools (circular saw and rail), the most advantageous is to buy panels and make the cuts yourself elements. Otherwise, DIY stores offer to make them from a specific plan.
Themelamine chipboard is available in panels of 250 x 125 cm (Bricoman, Leroy Merlin...) or 280 x 207 cm (Castorama, Mesmateriaux.com...).
Depending on the origin of the panels, the edges are rough or covered with a band on two sides.
Prefer a dressing room kit ready to assemble
There are also complete ranges of wardrobes and dressings, kit or custom (GSB, Ikea, Kazed, Lapeyre...).
These sets include, in particular, a variety of drawers in different widths, depths and heights.
The goal is to adapt the drawers to each realization and the ideal is to have templates ready to mount with their slide set.
When plans are made to build a wardrobe, it is first necessary to make a list of everything you want to put away, to better evaluate the clutter corresponding to folded linen and clothes to hang.
One organization per zone
- Clothes and objects of everyday use are placed within easy reach, in what is called the "active area" (middle part) of the furniture.
- For practical reasons, the shelves for shirts, sweaters, T-shirts... must be at least 35 to 40 cm wide.
- It is wise to provide, as here, two different wardrobe spaces: one for short clothes (shirts, jackets, jackets), the other for long (dresses, pants, coats).
- Drawers are primarily dedicated to underwear, socks, belts...
- The upper compartments accommodate linen and objects used occasionally (holiday accessories, luggage...).
- The shoes, meanwhile, are stored in a dedicated space at the bottom of the cupboards to prevent their soles dirty other business.
Swinging or sliding?
The swinging doors preserve the entirety of the interior volume and facilitate the access: one finds at first glance what one seeks. But this type of opening requires significant clearance.
If it did not exist, it would be necessary to install sliding doors, which would reduce the useful depth of about ten centimeters (width of the rails) and limit access to the left and right part. If possible, allow 20 to 25% additional storage space for future acquisitions. Boxes and baskets made of steel wire, basketwork or fabric will usefully complement your layout.
The elements of the wardrobe
• 4 large amounts H. 234 x l. 60 cm
• 1 high shelf L. 162,5 x l. 60 cm
• 6 tablets l. 39.9 x D. 60 cm (left column)
• 2 shelves l. 60 x 60 cm (center column)
• 1 shelf l. 55 x D. 60 cm (right column)
• 2 doors H. 232 x l. 81 cm
• 2 large tablets L. 144.4 x l. 60 cm
• 3 uprights H. 46 x l. 60 cm
• 1 shelf l. 77.6 x D. 60 cm
• 1 shelf l. 61.1 x D. 60 cm
• 1 right door H. 45.5 x l. 81 cm
• 1 left door H. 45.5 x l. 62.9 centimeters
Preparation of the elements of the dressing room
Cut the posts and tablets with a circular saw.
In the absence of a suitable guide rail, use a metal rule clamped at each end by clamps.
If an equalization is necessary, resume the cutting with electric plane in fine passes.
Freehand work requires dexterity and a good look.
Cover the edges that are to remain visible with a fusible strip wider than the thickness of the panels.
Apply the tape to the iron and let it overflow.
Once the glue has hardened, sharpen the excess of the band with a chisel.
Use the side of the blade and not the cutting edge to avoid notching the decorative side.
With a chopper, the job is even safer and faster.
Finish leveling the edges by lightly passing fine-grit sandpaper.
Tip to pierce cleats from a wardrobe to the router
The perforations of the cleats (shelf supports) are perforated 5 to 6 mm deep (Ø 5 mm).
For spacing and alignment, use a router and a homemade fixture (photo) or a drilling template (Festool, Wolfcraft...).
Assembly of the main body
Present the side panels at their location to check the plumb and level, as well as the proper alignment of the holes (cleats) vis-à-vis.
It was necessary to notch the fallout of shutter shuttering for the implementation of the high shelf.
A multifunction tool facilitates this kind of cutting.
Fasten the panels invisibly with MS Polymer Sealant for strong bonding.
Deposit the product in zigzag on the outer face of the first panel.
Place the panel on the wall and tap the mallet up and down all the way to squeeze the glue.
The polymerization, slow, allows time to adjust the position.
Provide small plastic shims to correct any slight positional defects.
They will not be removed until the sealant has completely hardened (about 24 hours).
Glue the second panel to the partition.
Hold it by pressure clamps until dry.
Install simultaneously (at two) the high shelf.
Tip for stalling a wardrobe
Facilitate the stalling of the uprights with falls (here plywood), glued and nailed at the base; they allow a finer adjustment.
Lay the two intermediate amounts, one after the other, controlling their verticality.
The shelves, in high and low parts, allow to adjust their spacing.
In order for the shelves to be horizontal, the perforations must be aligned.
The height of the intermediate amounts is reduced by 1 cm compared to the side.
After a final positioning check, fix on the edge of the uprights the top shelf.
Provide pre-drilled holes to avoid letting the heads go over.
Creation of the upper box
Continue assembly by installing the lower shelf of the box.
Its length corresponds to the distance between the masonry wall on the left and the shutter shutter on the right.
For aesthetics, the two shelves must be superimposed.
Two screws at each end are enough to secure them. There too, make their heads disappear.
Use polymer sealant to secure the top shelf.
Once applied against the ceiling, hold it in position with the lateral uprights, glued in the same way.
If these amounts have been cut a little too high, a wedge is necessary to ensure the pressurization of the tablet.
The central amount is added in stride, as well as the intermediate shelves.
This reinforces the pressurization of the upper shelf against the ceiling.
The number and distribution of tablets depends on what you want to store.
Install them all to make sure none of them will interfere with the installation of the doors.
Settings and installation of doors
The installation of the doors requires to double the thickness of the amount with a counter-batten chipboard melamine.
Postpone section with a fall, then notch.
Stick the stick (about 5 cm wide) to the polymer putty, flush with the outer edge of the upright.
Reinforce at the top, bottom and mid-height with three TF screws Ø 3.5 x 30 mm.
Present the doors in front of the closet to identify the locations of the four invisible hinges.
Put them on thick cardboard or plastic wedges.
Mark the locations of the built-in parts, called housings or cylinders, with the ruler and pencil.
Marks truscan drilling axes, a practical and accurate tool for parallel tracing.
Then drill the blind holes to the desired depth using a Ø 35 mm built-in bur.
Once the housings are recessed, fix the hinges with two small countersunk screws.
Before screwing, make sure the hinged part is perpendicular to the door.
Place each door vertically against its upright and secure the mounting plates.
In GSB, there are plastic tracing templates that simplify the operation.
When assembly is complete, correct a slight bias or misalignment of the door in the closed position by acting on the plate adjustment screw.
Sometimes you have to do several tests.
- Melamine panels ep. 19 mm
- Heat-resistant edgings, l. 23 or 25 mm
- Assorted drawers (dimensions to be defined)
- Hidden concealed hinges for full recovery (110°)
- Violin cleats
- Buttons or handles for doors and drawers
- Polymer MS sealant
- Wood screws