- Necessary material
- To ask his veranda...
- ... or put your own veranda?
- The technical choices of the extension project
- What floor for a veranda?
- Assembly of sleepers
- Installation of the gutters
- 3. Laying rafters
- Controls, fasteners and sealing
- Installation of the windows of the veranda
In addition to additional square meters, a veranda brings an added value to the house. For it to be a real living space, all aspects of the project must be carefully thought out.
Necessary materialDifficulty: 4/4
Cost: € 1,400 / m2
Time: 3 days approximately (with two, except earthworks and carcass work)
- spirit level,
- laser level,
- tool to unfold,
- syringe gun for sealant cartridge,
- perforator, grinder Ø 125 mm,
- glazier's cupping,
- locksmith tools,
- Sections, roof panels, glazing and other components of the veranda (glazing joints, etc.)
- Joint bottom
- Silicone sealants (colorless, red, black...)
- Bituminous aluminum strip (cold-applied)
- Stainless steel screws
Even largely glazed and fully open to the rest of the house, a veranda is a volume apart that requires administrative procedures identical to those of a traditional extension: prior declaration or building permit depending on your situation.
To ask his veranda...
A veranda usually leans against an existing home and presents specific difficulties of implementation: sealing at the junction with the house and risk of tillage causing cracks.
Talking to a professional (recognized and with similar references of projects) offers a wide choice in terms of geometries and materials, even if aluminum is largely predominant today.
Delegate also benefits from a ten-year guarantee and a reduced rate VAT if the work leads, on the one hand, to an increase of the floor area not exceeding 9 m2 and, on the other hand, to an increase of the floor area of the existing building less than or equal to 10%.
... or put your own veranda?
The prices of kits sold on the Internet are attractive (for example, less than 500 € / m2 for an entry-level PVC model).
With this formula, the possibilities of personalization (colors, geometries and types of glazing...) are also more limited.
And pay attention to the ancillary costs, never included in the kits: materials necessary for the slab of reinforced concrete and the walls which must serve as support to the whole, floor covering, heating, lighting...
The technical choices of the extension project
Oriented to the east, this veranda in thermolacquered aluminum sees its temperature rise quickly in the morning in summer.
- On the other hand, it is naturally protected from the overheating that affects the south and west exposures, especially as it opens on all three sides and its roof is largely composed of opaque insulation panels.
- Only roof surfaces near the house are equipped with laminated double glazing (6/12 / 33.2).
- The walls use double glazing type 4/16/4 ITR (reinforced thermal insulation) and solid plinths.
- This composition is found both in the form of sliding openings (three leaves in the front and two laterally) and fixed walls.
- They form the south-east and north-east corners of the structure, incorporating respectively a low air inlet and an outlet at the top.
- The volume of the veranda remains separate from the house thanks to the original French windows, kept without their shutters.
What floor for a veranda?
The floor supporting the veranda must be compact and stable.
Depending on the nature of the soil, foundations may be needed.
Here a hedgehog was made, then a reinforced slab 10 cm thick and finally a screed to stick the tiles.
Assembly of sleepers
- Glue the foam joints under the sleeper rails.
- Slide the assembly brackets at the end of the cross members.
- Apply silicone sealant to the mating surfaces.
- Present the amounts of sleepers at the end of the sleepers.
- Insert the assembly screws and tighten them into the brackets in place.
- Then wipe down the mastic.
- Assemble the fixed frame corresponding to the front facade.
- Bridle against a stepladder with a clamp. It will thus stand up time to add the side frames.
- Install the adhesive joints on the intermediate posts (integrating the gutter runs).
- Present them against the side frames and screw them on both sides of the frames.
Installation of the gutters
- Put enough caulk to seal at the end of the gutters that end flush with the pinion.
- Screw the plates (heels) that close their ends.
- The front and corner gutters are assembled at 45°.
- Insert the assembly brackets into the central chamber of the front gutter.
- Screw at an angle and then chew the heads.
- Fit the side gutters firmly onto the mounting brackets.
- Press a punch in one of the holes to hold the profiles for the first screw.
- Present the front gutter and its angles secured above the dormant.
- Align the overlapping profiles, clamp them, check the levels, then screw them.
- Add the gutters of the side walls.
- The bridles, then drill the sleepers high sleepers and the gutters (from below).
- Screw the profiles into each other.
- Measure the inside width of the structure at the top: at the front and then at the back.
- Check the diagonals to make sure the walls are orthogonal and parallel.
- Then check the alignment of the lower sleeper rails to the threshold of the French window using a mason's rule and a spirit level.
3. Laying rafters
- Assemble the rear rafters and present the first farm against the sprocket.
- Draw your position and dig the bleeding.
- Dust it and fill it with putty.
- Assemble and position the following rafters at the locations provided on the top rails.
- Screw them from the inside through the pilot holes of the profiles.
- Assemble and position the following rafters at the locations provided on the top rails
- Screw them from the inside through the pilot holes of the profiles.
- Fit the radiating profiles from the ridge.
- Finish by the two intermediate chevrons, parallel to the facade.
- Arrange the joints of the roof panels on the top rails.
- Peel off the protective film at the periphery of the glazing so that it does not get stuck in the joints when they are put in place.
- Panels and roof glazing are maintained by integrated joint glazing.
- Screw them into the rafters and rafters.
- Then fit their protective cover.
Controls, fasteners and sealing
- Check the verticality of the uprights and the horizontality of the sleepers.
- Arrange shims on both sides of the anchoring lugs to compensate for irregularities in the screed.
- The anchoring lugs being fixed under the lower sleepers, directly drill the clevis and the slab through the legs.
- Thread and screw the legs (stainless steel screws).
- At the level of the pinion, protect the caps of the glazing beads with adhesive.
- Place a bead of putty and spread it with a finger soaked in soapy water and remove the adhesive.
- Lay the rubber bibs covering the top of the windows.
- Fill the junction of the ridge and rafters with putty.
- Then screw the corresponding covering (in a semicircle), making sure to arrange the joints of the latter covering the structural steel members.
- The amounts to the right of the masonry must be separated from it.
- Twist two bottoms together and push them into the gap.
- Then apply the sealant to the spray gun.
- Masking the pieces coming to cover the junction of the gutters.
- Use bituminous adhesive for descents.
- Spread mastic over the entire area and around the crapaudines.
Installation of the windows of the veranda
- Install the fixed glazing from the inside with a pair of glazier's suction cups.
- Work in pairs.
- Fit the glazing beads and insert the corresponding seals.
- Tilt sliding sashes, tilt the panels to engage them at the top.
- Adjust their horizontality, then screw the upper stops.
- To screw the strikers of the opening on the amounts of the dormant ones.
- Then fix the locks on the opening.
- Try the mechanisms before adding trims and handles.