- Cuisine: a well-exploited space
- Electricity and plumbing networks to modify
- High furniture
- Sink: the advantages of stainless steel
- 1 Preparation of the yard in the kitchen
- 2 Installation of low furniture
- 3 Recessing the sink
- 4 Installation and connection of the mixer
- Info +
- 5 Connecting the drain
In this little house, every inch counts. The partial demolition of a partition has transformed the entrance into an open kitchen on the living room.
Cost: around € 1,000 (excluding household appliances)
Time: 2 days
Equipment: meter, pencil, cutter, level, cookie cutter, set of wrenches, cutting pliers, wire stripper, electrician screwdriver, hammer, cordless screwdriver, jigsaw, impact drill or puncher
In a long kitchen space like here (about 3.50 x 1.60 m), the most rational solution is to adopt a parallel arrangement. When the partition was opened, the owners kept a narrow section of wall extended by a low wall. This bias allows to spare a recess to house the refrigerator, and to have a masonry support for the counter
Cuisine: a well-exploited space
The bottom wall hosts most of the development, consisting of kit furniture (Ikéa, Lapeyre, Conforama...).
The low elements occupy less than 3 m in length and leave enough room to integrate a dish washer. The whole is capped with a laminate plan with built-in hob and sink. Above, sit an extractor hood and a high cupboard a little wider than the sink. Another cupboard placed above the refrigerator and two narrow shelves under the counter complete the layout.
The bar tray aligns to limit kitchen encroachment. The circulation space remains limited.
What releases?A minimum clearance of 70 cm must be provided in front of the low storage doors. It takes at least 80 cm in front of a built-in oven, 90 cm in front of the dishwasher and 1 m in front of a hob and a built-in oven. Here, the available space is too narrow to respect the safety distances of the cooking pole. Occupants have anticipated the problem by choosing a cold door oven.
Electricity and plumbing networks to modify
The kitchen being all electric, there is no particular difficulty to make the recessed circuits yourself.
If we follow the specifications of the standard NF C 15-100. The location of the front door has somewhat complicated the plumbing work. It is impossible here to circulate the water supply and the evacuation across the passage from the adjoining bathroom.
The solution: dig the floor in front of the door, so as to embed the pipework about 1.50 m and bring it out at the level of the future dishwasher. The concrete slab is thick enough to meet the prescribed flow gradient of 1 to 3 cm / m. It was necessary to redo the soil anyway...
The electrical connection points have been defined on site according to the location of the cooking appliances and the extractor hood. Same for the water inlets and connections of the sink and dishwasher drain systems. For aesthetic reasons, the electric meter and the subscriber board (located near the entrance door) disappear in a technical cabinet that blends with the color of the wall.
Tall furniture does not exceed 35 cm deep. Reserve a space of at least 50 cm between them and the worktop or the sink, otherwise you bang your head constantly leaning. 65 to 70 cm must be left between the extractor hood and the hob.
Sink: the advantages of stainless steel
Light, a stainless steel sink is easy to handle and adjust (note that a too heavy faucet can deform).
This material offers excellent performance in terms of both impact and durability. A quality stainless steel with a high content of chromium and nickel is unalterable (18/10, the respective levels of chromium and nickel). Its elastic behavior limits the risk of breakage. In addition, it degreases very easily. A simple cleaning with white vinegar gives it back its satin aspect. Attention, stainless steel is sensitive to scratches (do not use the sink as a cutting board!).
1 Preparation of the yard in the kitchen
During electrical installation, locate the circuits. The hob connects to a cable outlet. The oven, the hood and the washing machine are plugged into a socket.
The drain of the sink requires Ø 40 mm PVC pipe.
Provide a reduction to connect the siphon of the dishwasher (Ø 32 mm).
Check the flow slope.
Sand the end of the tubes to be assembled. Degrease then with a cloth soaked in alcohol to burn.
Using a small flat brush, glue the parts of tubes together. The special PVC glue spreads in a thin layer.
Assemble the parts quickly, keeping them pressed for a few seconds.
Tip: After the glue is completely dry, pour water into the pipe to check the tightness of the fittings.
2 Installation of low furniture
These boxes in kit are simple and quick to assemble.
Screw the feet last as indicated in the instructions.
Measure the size of the exhaust tube to cut at the back of the box.
Record the dimensions on the back of the sink cabinet, increasing them from 10 to 15 mm.
For height, take care to make marks from the ground.
Place the feet box in the air and trace with a ruler.
Extend the line on the floor of the cabinet to materialize the embedment depth.
Drill a hole at the corners of the path with a Ø 10 mm wood drill bit.
Start by cutting the back panel with a jigsaw equipped with a fine-toothed blade.
Finish by the recess of the pipe.
Detach the chute, turn the unit over and check that the drain tube is flush and that the box is flat against the wall.
Spot precisely the anchor points.
Peel off furniture from wall to drill and peg, then replace to screw.
Perfect stabilityThe boxes require to be secured at the front to ensure good overall rigidity.
Drill the amounts right through the holes of the cleats.
Two assembly points are recommended, approximately to the upper and lower thirds of the panels.
The connection is made with socket screws provided in the kit. Use two screwdrivers for fixing, one holding the socket (with internal thread) and the other tightening the screw.
3 Recessing the sink
Lay the countertop on the pedestals upside down.
After adjusting the parallelism, draw the outline of the sink on the tray.
Measure the shoulder width of the sink and make a second line inside the first one.
Hollow out the panel.
Ask for help to support the fall at the end of sawing and to avoid bursting the panel.
Remove the chute slowly by anticipating the weight: the high-density agglo laminated planes weighs heavily.
Put the plan back in the right direction. To attach it to the caissons, drill pilot holes from below the cross members and screw.
Adjust the drilling depth so that it does not pass through the panel.
Before gluing the joint, take care to clean the stainless steel with a degreasing product. The various manipulations leave on the metal greasy traces which would hinder the good behavior of the adhesive film. Provide teflon tape to make the water connections watertight.
Unwind the flexible sealing gasket of the sink (supplied) into the groove of the shoulder. Press as you go to ensure that the seal is well adhered.
In the perforated rib, clip the brackets around the sink at regular intervals.
Recess the sink in its cut.
To keep it in position, simply plant the metal claws of the tabs under the plane, then tighten the locking screws until the compression of the seal.
4 Installation and connection of the mixer
To pierce the mounting hole of the mixer tap, it is necessary a punch of corresponding diameter and a spanner adapted to the screw.
The punch is in two parts: a ring with a hexagon screw and the cutting tool, which has a female internal thread.
You must first mark the drill axis and make a first hole with a metal drill bit of the same diameter as the die screw. Then screw the two parts together by placing them on both sides of the sink: the ring above, the cutting tool below.
By gradually tightening the screw, the cutting tool goes back to completely perforate the stainless steel.
Equip the mixer with its supply hoses, tightening the fittings firmly. Place the O-ring seal in the throat of the faucet base and route the hoses into the sink hole.
The sheath of the shower is completed by a stiffener which serves at the same time to adjust the spacing of the mixer.
Orient the stop perpendicular to the faucet axis and trace its outline on the wall.
Drill the wall to the diameter indicated in the assembly instructions of the mixer, drill or perforator according to the nature of the material.
Thread and screw the threaded sleeve of the stopper.
Screw in turn the stop on the socket.
Adjust the spacing of the stiffener and tighten the locking knob.
Fixing systems vary depending on the model, but the key is to slip in the order joint and caliper, before tightening the nut.
Now you can connect the hoses to the water supply, not forgetting the fiber seal every time.
5 Connecting the drain
Place the body of the bung under the tank, interposing a neoprene joint of the same width as the collar.
Before placing the grid, place a thin bead of silicone sealant on the lip of the hole to complete the seal.
The blocking is done by screwing the grid, compressing a little the neoprene seal on the underside.
The overflow hose has a flared mouthpiece with a gasket. It is screwed on the side of the tank.
The operation requires a little twisting to maintain the mouth of one hand and screw the other
It remains to connect the siphon of the bung to the evacuation tube by means of a hose and a PVC sleeve of appropriate diameter.
Insert the hose completely into the sleeve and glue it to the silicone sealant to fix it and prevent odors from rising again.
• Housings and facades
• Laminated work plan
• Stainless steel sink (or other)
• Sink mixer with hand shower
• Hot water hoses, cold water
• Teflon tape
• Bung with siphon and overflow
• Ø 40 mm drain hose
• PVC glue, silicone sealant
• Screws and dowels