- Three-stage welding
- 1 SHAPING AND BRASING THE DESCENT CONNECTION
- 2 SETTING UP
- 3 INSTALLATION OF THE DESCENT
Solid and economical, zinc gutters are the most classic. They can be assembled by a gasket or by welding, the most professional method.
Cost: 180 €
Time: 1 day
Equipment: metal saw,
nibbling shears, soldering iron
propane gas with failure in
copper, cord, level, meter,
hammer, screwdriver, screwdriver,
emery cloth, lime, rags,
galvanized screws, concrete anchors
The dimensioning of a gutter depends on the slope of the roof, its surface and the number of descents (according to DTU 60.11). In general, the inclination of a gutter is 5 mm / m and its developed 16, 25 or 33 cm. As for the diameter of the down pipe, it varies from 60 mm (roof <30 m2), 80 mm (30
Brazing is preceded by stripping of the areas to be welded to the emery cloth or steel wool, followed by the brushing of a stripping flux. The iron is placed at the junction of the two parts to be welded and the tin bolt applied to the tip at an angle of approximately 45°. The assembly consists in pouring the weld in big points every 1 or 2 cm (by pressing the bolt) then to smooth them during a first pass. The operation is repeated (flush flux, pointing), crushing each point to obtain a uniform and regular bead. The tip should be cleaned frequently with ammonia stone or lime. The finished weld is then rubbed with a damp cloth to remove any traces of stripper.
1 SHAPING AND BRASING THE DESCENT CONNECTION
Position a heel at the end of a gutter section. Pick up the parts to be soldered (emery cloth + stripper) and weld in several passes.
Cut out the gutter with an overlap of 1 cm for the future connection. Cut with a hacksaw or shear, avoiding distorting the hem.
Weld both sections making sure that the connection does not interfere with the direction of water flow. Strap then solder.
Introduce the birth (or stump) of the descent to about ten cm from the end of the gutter.
With a pair of pliers, shape the collar so that it fits perfectly with the gutter.
Position the birth and apply 2 solder points. Hold the pressure with the bolt until cool. Strip and solder.
The opening is made here, using a screwdriver and a hammer, releasing a circle of the diameter of the birth. This hole could also be done with a hole saw before welding.
From inside the gutter, hammer the zinc to create a natural fall. Use a suitable hammer or a thick tool handle.
2 SETTING UP
The gutter is ready to be hung on the roof: fix the end hooks so as to obtain a slope of about 5 mm / m. Connect them by a string to have the alignment of the other hooks, spaced from 40 to 50 cm.
Insert the entire gutter into the lines. Position the rear edge correctly in relation to the hooks and then tilt the gutter forward. Fold the tabs of the hooks to keep it in the final position.
Use a pair of pliers to deflect the hook tabs. The splashguard of the gutter must be higher than the hem by at least 1 cm to guarantee the rejection of the water to the outside in case of overflow.
The hooks must be placed in such a way that the first tile overhangs at least the first third of the gutter. Do not forget to put a thrust on the downspout to avoid plugs of plant debris.
3 INSTALLATION OF THE DESCENT
The junction of descent and birth is done with two elbows and possibly a sleeve. It must remain free to uncork the pipes if necessary. Draw a vertical. Attach the half-collars and then the descent.
Connect the lower part of the descent to the rainwater network. Check that the hoses always fit in the direction of the water drain.
• Zinc gutters
• Prefabricated heels
• Birth, downpipes
• Elbows, collars
• Flux remover or acid
• Welding pin 33%
• Ammonia stone