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Corner fireplace

If you dream of warming yourself near a fireplace and want to install one, there is now a large choice of model kit. Of course, you will have to study the ideal location of this installation first. Do not get into this type of operation on a whim, you must take into account the structure of your home. You must also have a good idea of ​​the size of the chimney, indeed, it is not the same thing to see a model on catalog or at the manufacturer, because your living room does not have the same dimensions than an exhibition hall. Angle models are interesting if all parts of your room have openings (doors or windows).

Necessary material

  • Plastic tarpaulin
  • Plumb-line
  • Bubble level
  • Powder cord
  • Chisel, hammer
  • Wooden ruler
  • trowels
  • Cellular concrete saw
  • Sanding wedge
  • Knife to coat
  • Float
  • Roll to plaster
  • Stool
  • Folding Meter
  • Plaster
  • Refractory cement
  • Refractory putty
  • Auge
  • Sponge
  • Electric drill

Steps

  1. Make the base of the chimney
  2. Placement of the foyère plate and briquetting
  3. Setting up jambs
  4. Installation of the drain and chimney
  5. Laying the stone shelf and the walls of the hood
  6. Sanding and finishing

Make the base of the chimney

Laying the parts of the base of the chimney on the ground

Laying the parts of the base of the chimney on the ground

1. Start by protecting the floor with a large plastic tarpaulin. Define the chimney grip and saw the baseboards according to its dimensions. Warning: if it is a baseboard hiding electrical conductors, turn off the power and follow the power supply to another path. Put the vertical parts of the base in place, making sure to place it level with the floor or the tiles. Use for this a bubble level. Block the parts of the base very firmly: the whole weight of the chimney rests on it. To facilitate the installation of the rooms on the ground and their squaring, it is necessary first to make a trace of the location of the chimney on the ground and the walls.

Placement of corner stones

Placement of corner stones

2. Set up the corner stone. Put the bubble level on it to give it a perfect horizontality. The material used is quite heavy; but the limited size of the pieces makes it possible to move them alone.

Drill the air intake hole of the chimney

Drill the air intake hole of the chimney

3. Drill the air intake hole of the chimney. Use a chisel and a mallet. Here practiced in communication with the basement, this hole can also be arranged at the back of the fireplace or in the wall of support of the chimney. Whatever the solution chosen, which depends on the architecture of the room and its place in the house, but also the location chosen for the fireplace, the opening must be done on a well ventilated room. To ensure a good draft, the opening must have an area of ​​80 cm2, regardless of the dimensions of the duct or those of the fireplace. Even out the edges of the hole.

Installation of refractory cellular concrete plates

Installation of refractory cellular concrete plates

4. Place the plates made of refractory cellular concrete at 1100° C around the air intake: they are designed to support the fireplace. Using the bubble level, make sure they are level: their horizontality depends on the level of the hearth plate.

Placement of the foyère plate and briquetting

Center the plate

Center the plate

1. Place the hotplate on the cellular concrete elements. It must be centered: place it exactly equidistant from the lateral ends defined by the inner edges of the base pieces. Place the bubble level on the hotplate and adjust the location of the hotplate horizontally. The upper edges of the hearth plate, the bricks surrounding the hearth and the stones of the base must finally be at the same level: a wooden ruler straddling the pedestal makes it possible to adjust the position of the hearth plate. Fill all interior voids with rubble (hollow bricks or refractory concrete blocks).

Seal the plaster cast iron plate

Seal the plaster cast iron plate

2. The waterproofing of the rubble bed is carried out using plaster or refractory cement. This layer should be flush with the level of the front part of the base. The foyère plate is here rather thin and it dilates little, unlike those in cast iron. But it is better to oil the plate before it is put in place, so that it is not then sealed and can expand freely.

Laying tiles

Laying tiles

3. The brickwork of the upper part is made with tiles. Place them by checking the horizontality of the surface. The briquettes must be arranged so that the joints have the same width. Remember to reserve a space of 5 mm at the front and 2 mm on each side of the hotplate: otherwise, it could damage the brickwork by expanding. Measure the total space to be covered and calculate the number of briquettes required by providing a joint of about 1 to 2 cm. Different kinds of briquettes can be used. Make an accurate count so you do not have to cut.

Spread the binder between the tiles

Spread the binder between the tiles

4. Use refractory cement to make joints. Using the trowel, spread this binder so that it penetrates well between all the tiles. It is better to use a liquid cement that will fill the interstices better. Make all joints at one time (allow enough cement). Remove the excess binder with the trowel and finish forming the joints using the joint trowel.

Remove excess cement from wet sponge

Remove excess cement from wet sponge

5. With a damp sponge, immediately remove any excess cement. Rinse the sponge frequently and repeat the process several times so that there are no gray marks on the tiles after drying. The border stones, the briquettes and the horizontal edges of the hearth plate form the same horizontal plane.

Setting up jambs

Position the jambs

Position the jambs

1. Set up the jambs. This chimney coming in corner, there are three jambs, of which one against the wall. The two jambs near the wall are surmounted by an archway: the space thus defined forms the pyre (place of storage of the logs). The stones forming the jambs rest on both the edge elements and on the brickwork.

Make the route to build the brickwork

Make the route to build the brickwork

2. Elevate the vertical axis of the chimney (marked with a cross on the photo) as well as the verticals corresponding to the jambs. Then draw the horizontal defining the top level of the tablet. This layout will allow you to mount the brickwork leaning against the jambs and against the wall.

Double the support stones of the vertical walls of the fireplace with tiles.

Double the support stones of the vertical walls of the fireplace with tiles.

3. Double the support stones of the vertical walls of the fireplace with tiles. As with horizontal brickwork, use refractory cement. Lay a layer of cement on the face of the brick that is superimposed on the one already in place. To obtain equal joints, lay a layer each time of the same thickness. The wall, made of two rows of tiles, must be perfectly vertical. To help you, place a wooden batten against the vertical hotplate and mount the wall along this piece. The height of the brickwork must exactly match that of the jamb. Then mount the tiles against the wall of support of the chimney, between the hearth plate and the vertical briquetting. A refractory cellular concrete slab is placed at the back, against the support wall: it serves as a guide for mounting the tiles but especially insulation, to separate the bricks from the wall.

Install the metal plate

Install the metal plate

4. Place the vertical metal plate that sits against the bottom plate. Its internal surface is divided by bars: the passages thus obtained facilitate the circulation and the heating of the air. The vertical metal parts offset from the support wall prevent the heat from being lost in the masonry.

Installation of the drain and chimney

Installation of the stone lintel in the notches

Installation of the stone lintel in the notches

1. Place the stone lintel in the notches provided, in the raven on one side, in the jamb of the other. The shape, height and width of the lintel (or headband) of the chimney affect the heat output. The shape of this lintel, in an arc of a circle, allows a better diffusion of the radiation of the hearth as well as a minimal absorption of the ambient air. The installation of the lintel must follow that of the connecting duct between the vertical fired plates and the drains. You see on the photo this sheath exceed jambs.

Check horizontality using a bubble level with sealing

Check horizontality using a bubble level with sealing

2. Each element represents a fulcrum for the part that overcomes it afterwards. Also it is important, for the good performance of the whole, to check scrupulously and at each step, the horizontality of the piece which has just been asked, before its sealing. The kit, being in parts, it has the advantage of being able to play on the position of this or that part before mounting the next.

Laying the drain

Laying the drain

3. Place the drain on the construction. Depending on the kits, this part is delivered all mounted or in parts. The drain, then masked by the masonry, has holes on its face, which can recover the hot air. The drain lies on the jambs and on the lintel; it is connected, at the back, to the connection sheath. It does not rest against the wall of support of the chimney: the air gap which remains between this element and the partition reduces the absorption of the heat by the masonry. At this step, check that the connection duct can move vertically from 5 to 10 mm: indeed, its expansion must not force the drain which will not move.

Connecting the drain to the flue

Connecting the drain to the flue

4. The throat is connected to the flue (made of bushels) by a metal sheath. The latter fits on the drain and enters the conduit. Metallic, it has the advantage, as the drip, to restore a certain amount of heat, which can be recovered (unlike traditional sheaths bush terracotta).

Plaster joint between duct and flue

Plaster joint between duct and flue

5. The tightness between the sheath and the flue is achieved by a plaster joint. The difference in section between the sheath and the plug can be important: make sure that the plaster seal fills all voids and that there is no leak. The plug that passes through the ceiling must be securely sealed in the masonry and must not rest in any way on the metal sheath. If you do not have the possibility to connect to an existing duct, it will pierce the material constituting the ceiling and cut it for the passage and the sealing of bushels.

Application of refractory mastic at the junction of the throat and the sheath

Application of refractory mastic at the junction of the throat and the sheath

6. Using a cat-tongue trowel, apply refractory putty at the junction of the drains and sheaths. Put the sealant in all the gaps so that there is no smoke leak. To ensure a perfect seal, a layer of refractory mastic can be applied to both metal parts before interlocking. But it must be ensured that the internal walls of the drain and the sheath remain perfectly smooth. The slightest roughness leads quickly to a deposit of soot, which eventually causes clogging of the ducts and a bad draft. After application, smooth the bead with a damp cloth.

Laying the stone shelf and the walls of the hood

Controlling the horizontality of the tablet

Controlling the horizontality of the tablet

1. Set up the stone tablet and control its horizontality with the bubble level. The chimney being angled, only two stones constitute the tablet. Also check their squareness. These stones are relatively fragile: do not hit them and be careful not to drop them when laying. The stones constituting the jambs and the shelf of the chimney are thick, to limit as much as possible the calorific losses. Seal the jambs and backs of the tablet by a plaster throat. In a sufficiently strong wall, carpenter's nails are placed at an angle and then taken into the plaster throat to reinforce the strength of the seal.

Apply refractory putty between the stones and the drain

Apply refractory putty between the stones and the drain

2. The waterproofing between the stones and the drain is made with refractory mastic, using a cat tongue trowel, as for the junction between the sheath and the drain. To obtain a better seal, make a seal with refractory putty from the inside.

Measurement of drywall constituting the hood on the tablet

Measurement of drywall constituting the hood on the tablet

3. Take the thickness of the drywall constituting the hood. Take this measurement on the elements forming the shelf and draw the line on the outer edge of the drywall, all around the drain. Then place the jumper wire pin, straddling the front of the tablet and the return element. Push it into force, into the holes drilled with the electric drill equipped with a drill adapted to the stone. This pin is located in the surface of the tablet, then covered by the drywall forming the hood.

Draw the support lines of the hood on the walls and ceiling

Draw the support lines of the hood on the walls and ceiling

4. Draw the support lines of the hood on the walls and ceiling; materialize the outer edge using a taut cord, fixed to the ceiling and on the shelf. The walls of the hood are inclined to the ceiling of the room; it is possible to mount them vertically. The inclination, more aesthetic, promotes the circulation of hot air (it is, remember, the shape of the drain).

Cutting plaster tiles for the hood

Cutting plaster tiles for the hood

5. Using a cellular concrete saw, cut the gypsum or refractory cellular concrete tiles into the shape of the hood. The walls being inclined, it is necessary to bevel the base of these tiles to ensure a good seat on the shelf.

Place the elements of the hood on the shelf

Place the elements of the hood on the shelf

6. Place the base elements on the shelf, after cutting them in bevel. The material is handled and cut easily; it can also be painted. The plates are bonded with plaster. Depending on the nature of the walls of support, it is advisable to embed the plates in the walls, on 1 or 2 cm, to avoid the days and to ensure a good connection. Make a smooth plaster joint in the internal corner formed by the walls of the hood with the support walls, shelf and ceiling. The ceiling connection is made at a sharp angle or rounded. The hood can also be mounted in hollow bricks. This solution, more delicate, requires some experience of masonry for mounting the inclined wall. In the case of brickwork, the embedding in the walls is essential. There are also large plates light enough and easy to work. The hood is then made of three or four pieces assembled with plaster.

Sanding and finishing

Sand the plaster surfaces

Sand the plaster surfaces

1. Finishing work begins with sanding all stone surfaces of the chimney (shelves, jambs, lintel). Use a sanding block and sandpaper to remove any irregularities and stains.

Cover the hood with a plaster to make a plaster

Cover the hood with a plaster to make a plaster

2. Cover the outer walls of the hood with a plaster for subsequent rendering. It is best to apply a first coat and allow it to dry before applying the plaster layer. The orifice located on the side wall of the hood, the outlet of the hot air, allows to recover it. Several holes can be drilled, but their total surface must not exceed 80 cm2. When put into operation, the hot air emits a certain smell, due to the paint of the drain.After a few outbreaks, this inconvenience disappears.

Perform the laying of the plaster with a spiked roller

Realize the installation of the plaster with the spiked roller

3. The plaster gives a raw and old appearance to the hood; it goes very well with the stone of the fireplace. Use a spiked roller. There are other techniques for decorating the plaster, for example: the use of a straw broom to obtain a mouchetis. It is necessary, of course, to wait for the total drying of the plaster before putting the chimney in operation because the heat risks to crack the coating.

Laying a decorative grid

Laying a decorative grid

4. Place a decorative grille over the hot air outlet in the side wall of the hood. Thoroughly clean traces of plaster or plaster on all surfaces, especially stones. Using the vacuum cleaner, then dust off the chimney, especially to remove the stone powder that results from sanding.

Clean the tiles with linseed oil

Clean the tiles with linseed oil

5. The tiles are cleaned with linseed oil, using a brush, to remove any traces of cement that gives them a greyish tint. The fireplace is ready to operate. Before start-up, wait until all plaster, cement and putty joints have dried, and start with small, dry, well-seasoned fires.

On the same topic

  • DIY tips
    • Tutorial: Restoring a fireplace hearth
    • Realization of a firewall
  • Forum
    • Redo the angle of a wall after depressing a partition

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