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With the idea and a minimum of tools, the owner of this small apartment has used the best space reduced to create a very functional dining area. It consists of a bar table, sliding and removable, placed on the cob from a low furniture built for the occasion. All for a reasonable sum.

Create a space for dinner in the kitchen

Necessary material

  • 250 x 40 cm melamine agglomerated panels, ep. 18 mm
  • 250 x 60 cm white mother-of-pearl laminated plan, ep. 38 mm
  • 180 x 65 cm laminated beech tray, ep. 28 mm
  • Adjustable tubular metal foot Ø 55
  • Drawer slides
  • 15 x 15 cm earthenware tiles
  • Bar high chairs

The structure

  • The set takes place at the limit of a kitchenette and a wardrobe equipping the living room. It is designed in two stages: first the storage cabinet, then the table. This carpentry work is complemented by a tiling in credence, above the work plan of the kitchenette and on the wall that extends.
  • Equipped with two sliding doors and an overflowing top, the cabinet also has an inner shelf and a central partition. It is part of a kind of reinforcement of 130 cm wide, delimited by the wardrobe and the low elements of the kitchenette. This poses a small problem, because the wall of wall and the wall of the wardrobe (in plaster tiles) are not perpendicular. It will therefore be necessary to raise the angle using a false square and adjust the structure of the piece of furniture accordingly.
  • The box itself is made of 18 mm thick "4-sided" melamine agglo, available in panels of 250 x 40 cm. Its elements being cut only in length, the visible edges (plated of origin) bring from the assembly a finished aspect. The doors are in Isorel hard prepainted of 3mm. The top, chosen in 38 mm laminated agglo, constitutes an additional worktop.
  • The table comes from a 180 x 65 cm laminated beech board (28 mm thick) intersected at 150 cm in length. Side storage cabinet, it moves on the scenes of the trade, mounted under the plan. The opposite end, largely rounded, rests on a metal foot adjustable in height.
  • In daily use, the table has a surface of 108 x 65 cm that can accommodate four people. Pulling it to the maximum, it extends 45 cm and can accept two other guests. If necessary, it can be removed to clear the space.

The mounting of the box

  • The flanks, the floor and the top, are assembled by glued flat dowels. The inner shelf rests at each end on quarters-of-round (screwed in the sides) and half-length on the partition. The latter is also assembled by flat dowels, but they are not glued, because you have to lift the shelf when installing the sliding doors.

To note: If the furniture is leaning against the back wall, it must notch its sides and reduce the width of the floor to let pipe, running at the foot of the wall. A formwork will conceal them later.

  • The floor serves as a starting point for furniture construction. After deferring the irregular angle of the recess, it is cut to size and equipped with six adjustable feet: at each end and in the center. The set is then adjusted level to its location.
  • The other elements are adjusted and mounted as and when. Once the flanks have been lengthened and slotted at the bottom, the flat peg housing is located in conjunction with that of the floor. The assembly is glued and assembled flat by webbing, by interposing the intermediate shelf (cut in the meantime) to stiffen it well. After drying, it is inserted at its location to complete the installation in situ: partition and intermediate shelf, then the top that will be permanently fixed only after screwing the slides of the table. When the time comes, a sanitary sealant silicone sealant will be made between the laminate and the walls to prevent infiltration.

Sliding doors

  • Their dimensions (44.7 x 67 cm) take into account the slight overlap to respect in the closed position and the depth of their guide rails. A very "System D" editing! It consists of two lengths of 10 x 25 mm plastic molding (with central partition), fixed opposite Neoprene glue on the floor and under the intermediate shelf.
  • As a handle, the doors are drilled with a hole saw Ø 35 mm. As mentioned above, they are put in place by lifting the tablet slightly before engaging them in the rails. The cuts of the Isorel are finely sanded and covered with a white acrylic paint.


  • For lack of a carpenter's compass to trace the roundness of the board, make a peg: a lath of 70 cm approximately, provided with two nails spaced according to the radius (32,5 cm). The first nail serves as a centering point, the second as a dry point for tracing. Make the cut on the outside of the path, then sand the edge to equalize it. Then soften the edges of the tray to the reamer with a quarter round cutter, stopping at 45 cm from the rear end. This is where the backstage will be set.
  • These two-piece drawer slides with nylon bearings are designed for top clearance. They must therefore be modified to allow the release of the tray from below. Check the direction of installation of the half-slides to fix (with TF screws Ø 3.5 x 20 mm) on the edges of the table. Those to be installed under the laminate plan require to fix first at the bottom two support brackets of 20 x 40 mm. Finish by laying the tubular foot, well centered at 40 cm from the rounded end.


  • The choice fell on tiles of 15 x 15 cm. To obtain a decorative effect taking advantage of the pyramidal shape of the extractor hood, they are placed obliquely and bordered by rectangular elements of 7.3 x 15 cm. The use of an electric tile (available for rental) is recommended to cut the half-tiles required for fitting with the desired precision, in length or diagonally.
  • The installation is done by simply gluing with notched spatula (2.5 mm), the wall for the starting strip (lower), and tiles for the rest of the surface. The rectangular elements are wedged in their glue bed by adjusting the thickness of the joints with plastic braces. Follow two rows alternating half-triangular tiles and full tiles.
  • The work continues by climbing up to the hood on either side of the credence. Beforehand, a layout made it possible to distribute the elements well and to arrive with whole tiles in the alignment of the inclined sides. A banner identical to the first terminates the apparatus.
  • After 24 hours of drying, the grouting is carried out with a commercially available slip. By proceeding by surfaces of about half a square meter, the joints are stuffed with the squeegee rubber. About fifteen minutes after grouting, the excess is removed with a wet sponge taking care not to dig the joints. When the slip begins to fire, that is 30 minutes later, the tiles are completely cleaned (always with the sponge) by gently smoothing the joints.

Make room clear

Kitchen furniture destined to disappear

The realization of the dining area was somewhat complicated by the presence of copper pipes and PVC running at the foot of the wall. In situation, a wooden shelf doomed to disappear.

Take the measurements

Report angles

Faced with badly squared partitions and a random verticality, the survey of the dimensions requires a maximum of precautions. Begin by placing the angles on the lower shelf, cut first.

Install the tablet

Set the heights

Once the floor with its feet, adjust their height to wedge the shelf horizontally. Perform the control in both directions (width and length) using a bubble level.

Make the grooves

Dig grooves

In the absence of a Lamello milling machine to dig the grooves of the flat dowels, an adaptation (Wolfcraft...) can be mounted on a router body. Mark the pieces, on the face or on the edge!

Glue the flat dowels

Glue flat dowels

Flat dowels offer flexibility in longitudinal adjustment, while ensuring perfect accuracy in lateral adjustment. Coated with glue, they swell in their home.

Put the top of the furniture

Place the upper part of the furniture

After mounting the partition and the intermediate shelf, the top is presented at its location. It will be fixed to the wall by a metal angle, and the end cut will receive a fusible strip.

Closing the low storage

Install low furniture sliding panels

The low storage is closed by two doors in thin Isorel, lacquered white. The two panels slide in high and low parts in a central partition electric molding, perfect in this role.

Sand and round the tray for the kitchen table

Sanding the edges of the board

The laminated board is first set to length and rounded with a jigsaw. After sanding, the edges are softened with quarter-round milling, mounted on a ripper, except at the backstage.

Delimit the location of the slide brackets

Identify backstage support

To locate the positioning of the slide supports, the tray is centered on the underside of the laminate plane, placed upside down. The tracing is done at the square for a perfect perpendicularity.

Adjust the backstage

Unfold the wing to the pliers

The slides must be adapted to allow the clearance of the table down. A hacksaw, then the wing is unfolded to the clamp to provide a passage to the back of the wheel.

Screw a support / slide assembly

Fixing the support and slide assembly

Fix a first support / slide assembly under the laminate plane 10 mm from its mark. When mounting, carefully mark the locations of their respective screws so that they do not coincide.

Fix the half-slides

Fix the half-slides

Equip the table top with its half-slides before putting it on the back of the plane. It is thus possible to fix the remaining half-slide and its support with an optimal precision.

Screw the foot plate

Fix the foot under the table top

Center the plate of the tubular foot under the table top, 40 cm from the rounded edge, and mark the drilling axes. Drill four Ø 3.5 mm pilot holes for fixing with Ø 5 x 20 mm TR screws.

Protect the board

Varnish the table top

For its protection, the tabletop is first "mouth-pore" in two layers, each followed by ginning with steel wool (or fine abrasive). It then receives a satin polyurethane varnish.

Test the setting up

Fixing the table top

After complete drying, the tray is put in place for a functional test, then removed. It can be handled by one person, but it is easier for two because of its weight.

Lay the first strip of the wall tile

Laying wall tiles

A strip of half-tiles serves as a starting point for laying tiles, whose intervals are adjusted using braces. A silicone seal seals between the walls and the laminate plane.

Alternate whole and half tiles

Alternate whole and half tiles

The following rows consist of alternating half-triangular squares and whole squares. On a small surface, the pose is "going" by gluing the back of the elements.

Cover the credence

Overlay of the credence

The credence continues on the back wall of the dining area. The preliminary layout made it possible to visually extend the pyramidal shape of the hood with triangular and solid elements.

Insert the joints

Make tile joints

The next day, when the glue has dried, the joints are made with a slip available in several colors. The dough is pushed into the interstices with the rubber squeegee passed diagonally.

Clean the area

Clean the tile surface

A quarter of an hour later, the surplus is cleaned with sponge. It is necessary to wait about thirty minutes to smooth the joints and completely clean the surface, frequently rinsing the sponge.

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