- You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
- Recover precious centimeters
- XL blades for quick installation
- 1 MODIFICATION OF THE EXISTING
- 2 INSULATION AND INSTALLATION OF PARQUET
- 3 DRESSING THE RAMPERS WITH THE LAMBRIS
- 4 ENTOURAGE OF THE ROOF WINDOW
Transforming a dusty attic into a pleasant mezzanine requires a good choice of materials. Solid pine flooring and extra-large white paneling offer an aesthetic solution, quick to implement.
Cost: € 500 (including € 280 for
8 m2 pine paneling and 180 €
for 12 m2 from parquet to nail
in Northern fir)
Time: 2 days
Equipment: radial saw,
insulated, spring clip, mallet
wooden, hammer, measuring tape,
On the occasion of the renovation of their house, the owners transformed the attic rooms. To build one of them, too small, they recovered the attic above to create a mezzanine reserved for sleeping. This space was poorly insulated by mineral wool panels (20 mm thick) nailed under the rafters. After removal of the insulation, a roof window was laid. It brings natural light and airs the room. So this is after the insulation work (see System D No. 776, September 2010) that the development work has started.
You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
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Recover precious centimeters
If the floor space of the attic (12 m2) is largely sufficient to accommodate a bed of 190 x 140 mm, the height under ridge (about 1.20 m) is however too limited to be comfortable. The old joists 200 mm high have been replaced by rafters of 50 x 73 mm. A section sufficient to nail the floorboards and lower the future floor by 15 cm. Solid pine parquet is protected by a matt, colorless vitrifying agent with a VOC (volatile organic compounds) content of less than 5 g / l. A "detail" to take into account when the mattress is placed on the floor.
XL blades for quick installation
To create a warm room and visually enlarge the space, 30 cm wide white pine panels, rough sawn, were chosen (Metsä Wood, ex-Finnforest). Their hue harmonizes with that of the parquet floor. Each boot of two blades (length 2.50 m) covers an area of approximately 1.50 m2, which significantly reduces the exposure time. They are assembled by grooves and tongues along their length, which requires to double some cleats to nail their ends.
1 MODIFICATION OF THE EXISTING
After removing the old insulation, a roof window is installed on one of the roof panels. A projection opening (opening outwardly) is preferable here.
The airtight membrane is held on the rails by a double-sided adhesive. To fix it, the cleats for the paneling are screwed beforehand by alternating high and low position.
From the room below to the ridge, the gable wall is lined (100 mm thick glass wool + BA13 plasterboard 60 cm wide). The passage of electrical cables (switches and plugs) is provided.
2 INSULATION AND INSTALLATION OF PARQUET
From the lower part, BA13 plates are screwed under the joists. Using a couplene, strips of insulation (here glass wool, thickness 60 mm) are cut and unwound between the rafters to ensure sound insulation of the floor.
Trace the median axis of the floor surface on the joists and nail a floorboard that will serve as a reference for the starting row.
Place a blade of the starting row under the ramp. Measure in several points the distance which separates it from the central rank. The blades must be perfectly parallel to successfully pose.
The blades are laid with offset joints. Locate the middle of the rafter and mark a mark on the edge of the blade that is to rest on the joist.
Cut the blades with a radial saw. Wedge the blade against the stops of the plate, flange it and advance the saw gradually.
Start each next row with a shorter blade (about half). Insert it face down from top to bottom. To hammer it down, hit it with a small hammer and a wooden mallet.
Nail the planks on each joist with 45° tapered headless spikes in the bottom of the groove. Finish with a nail chaser.
3 DRESSING THE RAMPERS WITH THE LAMBRIS
Trace level horizontal marks on the cleats to perfectly position the first paneling board. It must be in contact all along its length with the floor. The implementation of the first rank is decisive for the rest of the installation.
Nail the blade on each cleat using steel head points Ø 1.3 x 18 mm, planted at 45° at the junction of the blade and the tongue. Hold the blade firmly against the cleat so you do not break the tongue that is fragile enough.
Insert and nail the following blades alternately with full and grooved blades. If you are alone, flange the blade to attach to one of the cleats using a spring clip.
4 ENTOURAGE OF THE ROOF WINDOW
In a thick cardboard, cut out templates corresponding to each side. Raise the corners with a false square and refer to the templates.
Snap the blade onto the saw blade and align the saw with the mark on the wood paneling. Cut by small pass so as not to deteriorate the white facing.
Using a drop, locate the thickness of the paneling to determine the nailing area. Insert one side to the bottom of the rabbet provided for this purpose on the window frame.
Nail it. Renew the operation for the other sides. Finish by gluing chopsticks.
Store slides well
Before the installation of a parquet or paneling, the blades must be kept in their packaging for 48 hours inside the rooms where they will be put. To prevent the wood from deforming, do not store the boots in a cellar or wet room.
• Paneling in white pine, rough sawn
(1.30 x L. 250 cm)
• Northern fir floorboards
planed white (20 x 135 mm)
• Corner strips (23 x 23 mm)
• Nail with man's head 20 mm
• 20 mm steel head tip
• Drywall screws