Tiling is a special material, probably the most confusing of coatings. The cut of a wallpaper, the size of a carpet are simple because their texture is flexible. Tiling that is hard and brittle, also has the disadvantage of being fragile. It must therefore be handled and worked with certain precautions. Each type of tile corresponds to a cutting instrument. For earthenware, choose the scribing point if it has reliefs, the steel scissors if it is flat. For sandstone, which is considered stronger, use the tile.
- Folding Meter
- tile cutter
- Parrot's claw (nibbler)
- Tile cutter
- Rat-tail file
- Concrete drill
- Felt pen
- Enamelled earthenware and sandstone tile
- Cutting earthenware
- Curved cutting
Enamelled earthenware and sandstone tile
1. The glazed earthenware tile used for wall cladding is of simple composition. Ordinary earthenware (a mixture of kaolin and various binders such as ordinary dishes) is the soul of the tile. This is covered with enamel baked, forming the siding and decor of the noble surface. This enamel is very hard compared to soft earthenware support. Trace the line of cut on the enamel with a felt pen. Scratch the tile with the scribe, following this line. The scribe, equipped with a diamond at its end, starts the enamel layer.
2. Place the rear face of the tile on the scribe. Match the line of cut with the axis of the tool lying flat. Press each side of the tile with the palm of your hands on either side of the scribe. Both parts of the cut element come off under the effect of pressure. The line of rupture of earthenware comes from the line of cut.
3. Sandstone is much more resistant. It is made from crushed stone; the cohesion is obtained after mixing various binders at a higher cooking temperature than that of faience. This time, the thickness of the tiles is larger and the whole of the material is homogeneous. This tile is made of a single block without a particular layer to attack. Locate the cut to make a pencil stroke. Place the tile in the tile and scratch the siding surface by pushing the lever.
4. Remove the tile from the unit and turn it over. Assassinate hammock (small narrow hammer) on the back of the tile, along the line of cut. The striped side splits along the line of attack of the tile, while the back has an approximate crack.
5. If the necessary cut is too close to one end, remove the useless part with a special, so-called asymmetrical pincer, the jaws of which do not match. This tool causes a bending motion resulting in breakage.
6. Cut out the earthenware with a tile cutter. The absence of relief allows its circular blade (wheel) an attack of the enamelled coating.
7. Insert the tile between the two jaws, so as to look at the enamelled face cut by the sharp blade. Apply the back of the tile to the wide sole of the lower jaw, the thin jaw being placed on the scratch made on the facing side. Wedge the tile in the tool according to this position; press the two handles of the pliers in a dry motion. The bending movement undergone by the tile breaks it net following the desired line. Too little bending may flake the enamelled surface along the cutting line.
8. The curve of a cut made is often imperfect. File the edge of the waist with a file "rat-tail" to give it a regular shape. Use a file with angular profile to remove the last asperities. Attention, if the tile is glazed, avoid passing the rat-tail in the back-face direction: the enamel may flake because this movement causes a tearing of the coating.
9. The presence of ducts sometimes imposes a cut in the middle of the tile. It is the most delicate size. Lay the tile flat on a block of wood. Trace the shape to be removed from the front of the tile and drill holes with a drill with a small drill bit according to the cut line. Move the holes as close as possible to form a tight dotted line that will facilitate cutting.
10. Remove the central part with the marteline by giving little tweaks. Then pass the rat-tail file to perfect the circular shape of the hole by eliminating the remaining asperities.
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