- Redo parquet: two solutions
- Acoustic impairment
- Prepare the soil
- The usefulness of the insulating underlayer
- Lay the acoustic underlayment
- Lay the floorboards
- Cut the floorboards
Equipped with the same mechanical characteristics as traditional hardwoods, bamboo flooring covers all floors of the house and offers a chic and trendy result by the originality of its appearance.
Cost: acoustic underlay: 7 € / m2;
Bamboo flooring: 67 € / m2
Time: 1 day (excluding skirting)
and drying time)
Equipment: cartridge gun, spatula, roller, drill, trough, platter, cutter, meter, mason's pencil, false square, wedge, wooden mallet, blade puller, expansion joint wedge, jigsaw and circular or radial saw...
The former floor of this room, converted into a playroom, had been repainted in gray to hide the defects of wear. Located above a room, this space caused noise. The owners then decided to renovate this room, opting for sound insulation before installing the new coating.
Redo parquet: two solutions
To rebuild a parquet, several solutions are needed.
One of them is to deposit the boards, add sound insulation between the joists (eg mineral wool or blow blown), then nail new blades.
Another solution is to cover the original floor with a new coating (carpet, seagrass, solid parquet, laminate...). This last solution, retained here, required a good preparation of the soil by the plugging of the holes present in the floor with adhesive mortar or acrylic putty (faster and economic) and the application of a patching product to obtain a perfect flatness. Fluid, self-leveling and fiber-reinforced (recommended on wood flooring), the patching is preceded by a primer to increase its adhesion.
To improve comfort and sound insulation, the owners chose to interpose an acoustic underlayment for floating floors ("Trio Flex" or "Trio Reflex" by Isoweb), equipped with a cover strip with integrated adhesive. Composed of a foam, fibers and a reinforced vapor barrier film, it reduces impact, impact and pitch noise (attenuation greater than 21 dB), protects against possible rise in humidity and improves thermal comfort. The choice of coating was made on bamboo flooring ("Color Artic Vertical" Bamboo Touch), placed directly on the isophonic underlayment. It is the strength of the material and its original appearance that determined the choice of this coating.
Prepare the soil
Clean the floor and then plug all the holes and interstices of the floor with an acrylic sealant. Leave to dry for about 24 to 48 hours.
Apply a regular coat of primer with a nap roller or foam roller. It improves the adhesion of the soil. Count approximately 24 hours of drying.
Mix the smoothing compound with a mixer in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer. The mixture must be sufficiently liquid to fill slots and irregularities as small as they are...
Spread the leveling compound with a platter so that it spreads evenly starting at the opposite side to the front door. Repeat the operation over the entire surface by circular motions.
The usefulness of the insulating underlayer
Disassembled from the ground, a floating floor "slams" on a floor (wood as concrete) as soon as you walk on it, hence the importance of laying an underlayment.
Indeed, and whatever the model (cellulose fiber, wood, extruded polystyrene...), this coating reduces impact noise. On the other hand, few of them improve thermal insulation.
Lay the acoustic underlayment
Position the first lé (vapor barrier to the ground) over the entire width of the room by providing an overhang at each end of 5 to 7 cm. Cut the lé with a cutter (new blade).
Mark the fold with the fingers, the thickness of the insulation (5 mm) facilitating tracing. At the corners, cut the pleats vertically to avoid extra thicknesses.
Lay a second edge against the first on the cover strip. Remove the protective film with one hand, while pressing the other's side.
Lay the floorboards
Before laying the first blades, store the packages away from the starting point so as not to clutter the space.
Place the first row blank, respecting a dilation space with a few shims. 5 to 8 mm. Measure the remaining length to cover. Cut out the last blade.
Glue the first row while holding between the wall and the floor the shims previously laid. Use a blade to fit the blades.
Start the next row with the fall of the previous blade. It must not be less than one third of its length. Place a stream of glue on the edge of the blade on the groove side.
Fit the blade in the previous one with a wedge (or wedge martyr) and a mallet. Hit the full length.
To cut a notch, trace it on the back of the blade. At one corner, drill (Ø10 mm) to facilitate insertion of the jigsaw blade. Saw the notch.
As some angles (reentrant or outgoing) are not straight, preferably use a false square to record and report the measurements on the cutting blade.
To finalize the chimney flue, place the following blades from the "full length" blade to the wall. The direction of assembly does not allow the use of the block to hit. Use the blade while blocking the first with the knee and the blade.
At the end of the row, insert the blade between the wall and the floor. Knock with a mallet to pull the blade. Wipe excess glue with a damp sponge.
48 hours after installation, cut with the cutter the overhang of the insulating underlay flush with the floor. After painting the walls, glue the skirting boards.
• Acrylic sealant
• Primary fastening
• Leveling self-leveling patch
• Isophonic underlayment
• Wood glue
• Solid bamboo flooring
3 folds crossed (dim. Of the blades:
15 x 150 x 1920 mm)
Cut the floorboards
The use of a table-mounted radial saw ensures a clean cut of the blades according to different degrees of cutting. The jigsaw is more versatile. It allows all kinds of cuts (straight, notches...), but it must be remembered that cutting accuracy is the dexterity of its user.