- Practical tip
- The decor in detail
- Measurement and tooling
- The low furniture
- The upper element
- The laying of the racks
- The subwoofer
- The upper element
- The cornice
- Modules above the doors
- Finishes: painting and spots
This large shelving structure makes the most of the surface it occupies. Harmoniously proportioned, it takes place between two communication doors, each surmounted by an additional module. The set, economic to achieve, is easily adaptable to the tastes and needs of each.
How much does it cost?
- Medium: 122 € (Bricomarché)
- Aluminum rack: 41 € the 12 lengths ("Silam", Castorama)
- Cleats in aluminum: 11,70 € the 3 bags of 20 ("Silam", Castorama)
- Painting: 50,70 € the pot of 2,5 liters ("Julien", at Bricomarché)
- Lacquer roller refills: 11,64 € both (Bricomarché)
- TBT lighting kit with built-in transformer: 12,50 € (Castorama)
See the plan of this realization (in pdf): A library of living room
Classic in appearance, the library is made of a low body supporting a flight of shelves in recess. Structured by four regularly spaced uprights, the two elements offer a useful depth of 34.5 and 26 cm for a shelf length of around 15 m! Six adjustable feet, concealed by a removable plinth, allow to adjust the horizontality in case of irregularities of the ground.
The low box is topped with a large tray and closed by a white lacquered Isorel back, which ensures a perfect finish by avoiding small objects get stuck between furniture and wall. Its shelves are fixed, while those at the top can be adjusted at will thanks to a system of metal cleats and racks. These are carefully embedded in the uprights.
The top of the library, slightly advanced, incorporates three spots TBT centered on each series of shelves. A little narrower, the modules occupy the entire width between the sides of the furniture and the walls back. The set is built in medium of three thicknesses: 22, 15 and 10 mm. Its realization required three weekends, the last being
The decor in detail
Sober, the decoration is limited to the laying of moldings and an application of satin glycerophtalic lacquer, a beautiful red "Basque", which slice on the white and gray paneled walls. Fluted rods made "home", in medium section of 40 x 10 mm, are thus laid in cladding on the four upper uprights and the two intermediate uprights of the low furniture.
Two other baguettes, half less wide, come decorate the low box on both sides. They are set back from the facade, on quarter-rounds of 19 mm. This choice is motivated by the need to adjust the height of the feet during implantation, so before laying the plinth. However, if these chopsticks covered the edge of the side uprights, their overflow then prevent clipping the plinth. In addition, they would be very exposed to shocks (by vacuuming, for example).
The large intermediate plate is surrounded by a molding of the same thickness, purchased ready made. Finally, the top of the library and those of the modules are lined with a small cornice (still trade) reinforced here also by quarter-round.
Measurement and tooling
The chosen location determines the footprint of your library. It is up to you to see if the installation of the module (s) is justified, or is only possible... To establish the flow plug, simply adapt the dimensions of the diagram according to the wall surface available and the height under the ceiling. The easiest way, then, is to have all the pieces cut to the wooden shelf of your store. By emphasizing the need to get them perfectly perpendicular!
The manufacturing combines two types of assemblies: flat dowels for the low box, by bolting for the upper elements. So you need a laminator (Lamello type) or an adjustable milling tool on an angle grinder (Wolfcraft), as well as drilling accessories. Other machining (grooves, rabbets) are done at the router, some fixed. The ideal is to have a workbench equipped with a tool tray. Also take a drill-driver, a set of drill bits and a hole saw diameter suitable for embedding spots. Finally, plan for good clamps and ratchet straps.
The low furniture
With the assemblies facing each other, trace the locations of the two intermediate uprights on the back of the large plate and the top of the floor. Then find the outline of the tablets on the four uprights. Three flat dowels no. 20 (61x23x 4mm) are necessary for the horizontal junctions (question of solidity), two only for the vertical ones.
First mill the slots of the slats on the faces of the parts to be assembled and, while keeping the settings, factory the corresponding songs. The bottom is inserted into an 8 x 5 mm rebate, hollowed out at the back of the tray, the floor and the only external uprights. To do this, equip your router with a straight cutter Ø 10 mm.
At this point, a blank edit is required. Proceed in reverse, the tray turned on the ground. After checking the squareness and alignment of the shelves, take advantage of the bottom of the floor facing you to attach the foot plates. You can then separate the pieces to glue and assemble the box in press. Be sure to protect the floor, especially if it is fragile. The glue ebbing when tightening, immediately wipe the burrs with a damp sponge. Wait for the complete drying to put the box on feet and to put its moldings (with tips man's head Ø 1,2 x 20 mm).
The upper element
For aesthetic reasons, the lateral uprights are slightly wider (30 cm) than the intermediate ones (22 cm). It is therefore these which give the useful depth of the shelves. Dig the recesses of the 6 x 11 mm racks on the reamer with a straight cutter Ø 12. If you are working freehand, use the parallel guide and adjust its spacing to mill the parts in series: d first 20 mm from the back edge, then 200 mm.
The four uprights are secured to the top of the lower box and above the cabinet by two positioning pins (not glued). Pierce their ends first, 20 mm deep. Then place centering pins in the holes to transfer the drilling axes to the faces to be joined. The accuracy of the marking determines that of the final assembly, which requires a perfect verticality of the amounts.
The checks made, paste-nails decorative rods. Put them astride the intermediate amounts by balancing their spacing on both sides. On the lateral uprights, place them flush with the outer surface by pressing on quarter-rounds of reinforcement, fixed beforehand on the internal face.
To finish the preparation, drill two milled countersinks (Ø 5 mm) in the top of the upper element at the intermediate posts. Drill, with a hole saw (Ø 63 mm), the recesses of the spots, along an axis drawn 60 mm from the front edge of the board. Finally, place the cornice (and its quarter-circles) on all three visible sides. You will install the lights after in situ mounting.
Such a structure requires to be well supported against the wall of affiliation. Remove the skirting board at the bottom of the wall or, if the configuration prohibits it, snap the back of the bottom box accordingly. In addition, provide two anti-tilt brackets to anchor the top in the masonry.
The laying of the racks
Supplied in 2 m lengths, the racks have a "pitch" of 25 mm and have fastening holes every 12.5 cm. Bottom: they are not all cut in the same place by the manufacturer, hence the risk of shifts when laying tablets.
To adjust the racks, line up on a nail that has passed through the light of a cleat and abuts the base of each stud. To fix them, use TF screws Ø 3 x 15 mm and adjust the torque of the screwdriver as a minimum. Spade last, with the hacksaw, the parts protruding up and down.
These small bottomless boxes assemble in advance by glued trunnions. They are anchored to the wall through their single post (pierced with two countersunk holes), before the final assembly of the upper part of the furniture. Which requires precise identification.
In contrast, the modules adjust to the library with positioning journals. Just present the corresponding amount to block them in position. When the library is fully assembled, lay the cornice on the front and chew the wall anchor screws. A touch of paint will hide these corks.
The surface to be painted represents about ten square meters. That is 2.5 liters of paint for the two layers to be applied. As a primer, dilute the first with 5 to 10% white spirit. Once dry, sand the flat surfaces with fine abrasive (# 160) and dust well before passing the decorative layer.
Paint the removable elements separately, it will be easier. For songs, always more absorbent, the application of a coating to lacquer or a resin of attachment (SB Mercier, Weber and Broutin...) will ensure a good preparation. Sand carefully before painting.
To blend in with the decor, spot wheel covers and tablet holders are also painted red. Tip to paint the cleats in series (there are 56!): Place them on ragged chutes fixed on a board.
With the old skirting board removed, place the outside uprights of the lower box in their place to check the plumb. In the event of a fault, re-cut their rear edge or base accordingly.
It is essential that the upper edges of the uprights be perfectly horizontal and on the same plane. To make sure, put the big tray on it and carry out the control on the spirit level.
Locate the stud locations accurately on the back of the tray and the top of the floor. For tracing, place the square on the same reference edge and use a sharp pencil.
Next, trace the assembly lines of the lower shelves onto the posts, which are lined up side by side against the edge of a board. Then mill in flat dowels in series.
To machine the bottom panel insertion rabbet, mount your stationary router. You can proceed freehand by fine-tuning the parallel cutting guide of the machine.
Even if one proceeds in reverse, the blank assembly makes it possible to check the correctness of the assemblies and squares. Nothing must force. At this point, you can still make adjustments.
The underside of the floor being accessible, fix the feet of the feet before dismounting the furniture. Align them at the front and at the back, screwing the middle ones to the intermediate amounts.
For final assembly, glue grooves and joint planes only. Not the slats, which would swell prematurely... Turn the tray back on the ground to do the editing. Proceed from one edge to the other, placing the uprights and tablets as you go.
Tip to get started, square the first amount and the shelf by nailing a thin sliced plywood drop.
The intermediate amounts are here held vertically by clamps placed at the foot. Their tails are oriented so that their weight opposes the tilting of the elements in place.
The ratchet straps are perfect for quality clamping in both directions, vertical and horizontal. The pressure exerted on the assembly is reinforced by cleats forming levers.
Wait for complete drying to remove the clamping material and handle the housing. Lay it flat on the front and lay the back panel by simply nailing it into its groove with small spikes.
Take advantage of the position to nest, with the mallet, the feet in their supports. Insert them fully and loosen them by turning clockwise, before straightening the case.
Install the box in the desired location and gently rotate each foot until it is in contact with the ground. Starting from the middle, give an extra half-turn to sit them down.
The decorative rods are grooved in series with the straight cutter, on 1 mm deep, then softened on the quarter-round milling edges. A little sanding stroke precedes their placement.
At the ends of the box, on the inner side of the side posts, glue nails quarter-round by aligning them on the edge of the shelves. Then cover them with decorative chopsticks.
The sticks are straddling the intermediate amounts, with a slight overhang on either side excluding any reinforcement. For a flawless finish, drive the heads of the points to the nail chaser.
The upper element
Depending on their position, the upper amounts receive racks on one side or both. Adjust the router guide gap to mill grooves in series from the same edge.
The assembly of the uprights with the top of the furniture and the intermediate plate requires two trunnions at each end. Mount a depth stop on the bit and make sure to drill straight.
Position the uprights and check their squareness in relation to the wall and the platform on which they rest. Then block clamps at the bottom to keep them upright.
Place centering pegs at the top of the uprights and put the top in place, checking the alignment on the sides and front of the bracket. Tap the mallet to mark it, drill as before and mount it with positioning pins.
The assembly being correct, disassemble the elements to finish preparing them. Drill the recesses of the spots in the top and dress it with its cornice by first posing quarter-round.
When attaching the racks, adjust the torque of your drill / driver as a minimum. And think of shifting the screw holes of the racks arranged back to back on the intermediate amounts.
Modules above the doors
The walls are never strictly perpendicular, raise the angle with a false square. Then re-cut the top and bottom of the modules accordingly before assembling them.
Precision requires, it is necessary to reassemble amounts and above in order to prepare the ramming modules and their wall anchoring. Tip to ensure a good squareness, nail bracing cleats.
Finishes: painting and spots
Observe the indicated drying time before handling the elements and proceeding with the final assembly. First fix the modules and lock them in position with the corresponding amount. Then add the intermediate uprights and the top, which you will anchor in the wall with two metal brackets.
Disassemble the set again to dress the uprights of their decorative rods and proceed to the painting. Two layers are enough, but the first must be diluted with white spirit.
It is more convenient to put the shelves after installing the lights. Prewired, the spots simply connect to the special cord from the transformer included in the kit.