The installation of paneling (English word meaning to cover panels) is carried out in a manner similar to that of wooden paneling except that assembling panels 60 cm wide, it is much faster. However, as it requires more cutting, it needs to have enough space to perform and be equipped with suitable equipment.
- Finishing profiles
- Nails with a man's head
1. The installation of the paneling is based on the same principles as the paneling: it is first set up a set of horizontal cleats. In most cases, it is prudent to provide air circulation: it will act as insulation, especially for damp walls. Instead of placing cleats along the entire length of the wall, space them by checking their horizontality regularly. First trace their location to the chalk line. A strip of bitumen felt stapled or glued directly to the wall, under the cleats, provides more effective insulation.
2. Start the installation with a door frame (or window). Plan the number of paneling elements to be laid down to the wall, avoiding too narrow, unsightly cuts. Use a fine-toothed handsaw to cut the panels; always attack them on the siding side.
3. First place finishing profiles around the door. For framing, make miter cuts using a miter box and a hacksaw. Secure the profile by screwing against the door jamb. Check the verticality and horizontality: the balance of the whole depends on it. The paneling elements previously cut to the right dimensions are embedded in the profiles.
4. The elements of the paneling are attached to the cleats with nails or clips. For nailing, man-headed tips are used, which are then removed. The attachment by clips has two advantages: it is fast and allows easy disassembly. The paneling can be fixed by gluing on the support, provided that it is adapted. In general, panels of honeycomb plastic plates are attached to the back and glued to the wall with Neoprene glue. On very wet substrates, particle boards are placed on which the paneling is then placed.
5. Place the assembly profiles of the panels after sawing them to the correct length. These profiles are fixed with screws on the cleats. There are profiles adaptable to the re-entrant angles and the outgoing angles. In a re-entrant angle, the panels can be brought into contact without the intermediary of profiles, and conceal the joint under a quarter-round rod.
6. Engage the panels all the way into the profiles so that there is no play in the assembly.
(photos / visuals: © DIY-Prod, except special mention)
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