- Practical advice
- Reproduce the lock entry
- Punch the outline
- Finish with chisel
- Use pliers
- Refine the outlines
- Manual finishing of contours
- Brown the new room
An iron lock entrance was reproduced identically. Only requirements: draw the drawing carefully, arm yourself with a good dose of patience to punch the metal and play the file virtuoso.
To catch up with the patina of the wood where an accessory has left a lighter mark, use oil paint for paintings. Clean the surface with a soft cloth (if necessary with steel wool or a scraper...). Place with your fingertips a hint of yellow ocher and English red enjoying the proportions of the mixture until the desired hue is obtained. After drying, wax with a soft cloth. Guaranteed effect!
If you prefer to buy a lock entry, you will probably find a model exactly reproducing the old (or very similar) in
a DIY store or a specialist in furniture hardware (Eureka Deco, Brass...).
Attached to the outside of the opening and surrounding the hole that receives the key in the lock, an entry is primarily intended to protect the wood. In iron for current models, bronze or brass for the most sophisticated, the entrance is a decorative element that contributes to the aesthetics of a piece of furniture. On this fir-tree sideboard, a missing lock entry is reconstituted from the existing model (see photo 8).
It is rare for a handyman to have a blacksmith "martinet", let alone a hammer, essential for stamping a brass lock entry. And few have a stamping press to cut a metal plate in a single operation according to the design of the matrix.
On the other hand, it is quite easy to make an iron lock entry yourself. It is enough to copy an existing model or to reproduce a drawing extracted from a specialized work.
● The necessary equipment remains accessible: a 10 / 10th steel plate (a locksmith or a metalworker will give you a nice gift of a metal drop); a pencil ; a greasy felt; a punch to center; a hammer ; a drill (if possible mounted on a column) equipped with a few metal drills of Ø 2 mm; a flat metal chisel; a clamp (universal or trundle); a rat-tail file; a flat file and a vise.
The manufacture is simple. The only requirements are the regularity and the precision of the punching as well as a good control of the movements during the deburring, on all if it is carried out with a reel to grind.
● The "new" lock entry has a flashy appearance. To give it an aged effect in a few minutes, there are several solutions depending on the desired style. A verdigris finish is obtained by applying a liquid solution oxidizer (available in a commercially available container). For a rusty effect, simply brush with a mixture of caustic soda and cooking salt, all just moistened with water to cover the metal surface (beware of the risk of burns during handling). Alternatively, wear the metal red with a soldering lamp, then rub it energetically with a soft cloth soaked in linseed oil. This black-brown finish (used here) can be shaded with a wire brush mounted on a drill.
Reproduce the lock entry
Reproduce the lock entry with a grease pencil on a sheet of paper. Tap lightly to sharpen the outlines. Cut out your model.
Punch the outline
The cut is glued on a metal plate. Punch the outline (previously underlined with felt) with a hammer. Space the 4mm punches.
Use a column drill (or cradle mounted) equipped with a metal drill bit Ø 2 mm. Center the drill on the imprint left by each punch. Drill.
Finish with chisel
Cut the remaining metal inside the holes using a sharp chisel. With a hammer, hit the tool with a sharp blow, successively on both sides of the plate.
On the punched parts, the metal remaining inside the holes is detached by means of pliers. Avoid this operation near too fine details: you risk cutting them.
Refine the outlines
Refine the contours of the room with a grinding drum (more practical than a grinder a hand). Leave in place the form of paper glued to the metal, it is a template and does not interfere.
Manual finishing of contours
Clamp the workpiece between the jaws of a vice to ensure manual finishing of the contours: rat-tail file for convex curves and flat file for concave and rectilinear shapes.
Brown the new room
The new part (on the right) must be burnished again. The fastest method is to wear the metal red before rubbing it with a rag soaked in linseed oil. Beware of burns.