- Necessary material
- Slab: designed as long steps
- A choice of species adapted
- A homemade flashing
- Realization of the slab
- Machining of structural elements
- Shaping zinc
- Info: cut out the zinc leaves
- Info: cut with shears
- Assembly of the structure
- Placing the roof on the frame
- Tip for DIYers
The construction of a bonfire leaning against the house makes it possible to store its wood in an optimal way. Extending the roof with a zinc step also protects outdoor installations.
- Ruler aluminum or wood
- Rubber mallet or bodybuilder hammer
- Shear and claw of zinc worker
- Chisel mortiser or wood chisels
- Spindle or circular saw
- Hand saw or band saw
- Drill-driver with Ø 5 mm wood drill bit
- Cement mixer
- 4 sheets of zinc 2 x 1 m thick 0.6 mm
- 7 m² poplar boards ep. 30 mm
- 20 m of 40 x 60 mm douglas chevron and 10 m of 30 x 100 mm Douglas fir plank
- 4 bags of cement, sand, gravel (or about 1 m³ concrete mix)
- Formwork boards and stakes
- Mounting brackets 60 x 40 mm
- Zinc adhesive (silicone or polymer)
- Wood screws 5 x 90/4 x 60/6 x 80 mm and dowels 8 x 50 mm
- 25 mm galvanized tips
Cost: 500 €
Time: 3 days
The rear facade of this house is the ideal place to serve as a wall of support for a stake. The owners had already built a slab to store their heat pump and gas cylinders. It only remained to extend the slab and create a roof to protect the wood from the rain.
Slab: designed as long steps
The realization of the slab isolates the first row of logs from the moisture of the soil. To follow the slope of the land, the work is divided into four parts, a little like steps. Formwork (planks, stakes...), hedgehog (bed of gravel or pebbles) and concrete dosed at 350 kg / m3 are made in the day. The new storage area created along the façade is sheltered by a breakthrough in line with the existing roof. Securely anchored in the masonry, the wooden structure is composed of a series of posts, crosspieces and a roofing covered with zinc sheets.
A choice of species adapted
The posts (40 x 60 mm) are made of Douglas fir. But another species like larch would be perfect for this type of realization. When buying wood, it is especially important to ensure that it belongs to class 4, that is to say that it is intended for outdoor use and that it resists prolonged humidification or permed. The planks forming the planking are made of poplar (30 mm thick) of carpentry quality without knots (solid pine would also be suitable). It is better to avoid marine plywood, which is commonly used in roofing, as it is likely to become veiled over time, creating cuvettes and preventing good drainage. A particularly well-studied point on this site: from one end to the other, the roof projection has a slight inclination of 3°, or 5 cm / m, to route the rainwater along the facade and ensure their safety. evacuation well away from the wall.
A homemade flashing
This routing is ensured by the reading of the zinc sheet which follows a cleat fixed above the wall failure. This survey plays the role of flashing and a gargoyle discards the possible water jet of heavy rains. If you do not have the necessary tools to work with zinc, bitumen shingles are a very economical alternative (10 to 15 € per square meter).2). Simply staple or nail them on the eaves.
The advance in zinc leaves protects the wall of the house and the framework of the stake by isolating them from the rainwater.
Realization of the slab
- The existing slab is used to store gas cylinders and a heat pump.
- To store firewood, simply extend it on each side.
- The slab is divided into four parts, and follows the slope of the land.
- Install the shuttering boards and stakes, then spread a hedgehog with stones or gravel.
- Fill the concrete with 350 kg / m³ (ie 1 bucket of cement for two of sand and three of gravel).
- Araser with a ruler, smooth with a trowel, then with liana.
- Let dry.
Machining of structural elements
- Two types of assembly are planned on this site: half-timber side facade (sleepers and breakdown), and tenons and mortaires side garden (sleepers and poles).
- Dig mortises on one end of the ties (chisel mortiser or chisel).
- Then make symmetrical leveling at the end of posts to make the tenons.
- At the end of the transom (wall side, see photo 12), the half-timber joint can be made by hand.
- Use a false square to respect the slope of 3° (5 cm / m) provided.
- Make cut-outs with a hand saw (or ribbon for those who have woodworking machines).
- The leveling of the tenons at the top of the columns is traced with the same setting of the false square and also cut with a handsaw.
- On the front edge of poplar planks, machine a rabbet and a groove to receive the zinc sheets (use a router saw or circular saw).
- Zinc leaves protect the poplar planking and ensure the evacuation of rainwater.
- Present the first sheet on the workbench, and tighten it with a ruler of hardwood or metal, the thickness of which corresponds to that of poplar planks.
- The edge of the sheet with respect to the edge of the workbench and the ruler corresponds to the width of the part to be bent.
- Fold the sheet gradually in two successive phases so as to make it fit the shape of the rule.
- Use a rubber mallet or bodybuilder hammer, advancing steadily until you have a flat, non-bumpy surface.
For a perfect result, you can also rent a folder of zinc.
- The rear part is also folded so as to cover a cleat.
- The thickness of the poplar plank and the cleat determines the location of the bends.
- The first and last zinc plates are prepared to fit the ends of the lead.
- Cut the folded parts with shears to avoid extra thicknesses.
Info: cut out the zinc leaves
Zinc sheets (0.6 or 0.8 mm thick) can be cut by the supplier from standard size sheets (2 x 1 m). But you can detail them yourself with a claw (tungsten carbide tooth), a tool also used to cut laminate.
Info: cut with shears
Zipper shears are used as a pair of scissors. Once the cuts are made, it is recommended to heat the hot zinc with a gas iron (butane) and tin sticks. You can also use neoprene glue or special zinc polymer (in cartridge).
Assembly of the structure
- Fix the fault on the masonry (screws 6 x 80 mm and bolts pegged).
- Its installation follows a slight slope (5 cm / m) for the flow of rainwater.
- Insert the ends of the sleepers into the notches on the tip.
- Align the front ends of the ties with a chalk line to obtain a smooth slope.
- Mark the location of the metal brackets under the posts, after checking the plumb and squaring.
- Fix the brackets on the slab (screws and dowels).
- Screw the base of the portals against the metal brackets.
- Fix the crossmembers on the tip with a diagonal screw (5 x 90 mm) after drilling a pilot hole.
Placing the roof on the frame
- Assemble the poplar planks that form the voligeage.
- Join them with dominoes or sipes of assembly or by bouvetage (tongue and groove).
- Clamp the planks against the cross members with a clamp, then fix the assembly with screws (4 x 60 mm) or twisted tips placed at an angle.
- The outer edges of the boards have a rabbet and a thin groove for inserting the zinc sheets and holding them in place.
Tip for DIYers
To allow dimensional variations of the zinc plates due to temperature differences, a profiling of the support boards maintains the edge of the sheet without clamping it.
The plates are then glued together, forming a tight expansion joint.
- Lay the shaped zinc sheets starting at the low end of the projection.
- Lift the leaves to set an overlap of at least 5 cm.
- The sheets are fixed at one point, to withstand dimensional variations without causing tension.
- Plant a galvanized point from underneath.
- On each junction, spread a bead of special zinc silicone glue.
- This putty adhesive remains relatively flexible, forming an expansion joint between the zinc sheets.
- Make a small gargoyle with a drop of zinc.
- Slipped between the shore gutter and the zinc cover, it evacuates rainwater away from the masonry wall.