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There is no need for a shaggy molding to make a beautiful railing. All in straight lines, that of our reader Lilian Blanc is the proof!

A railing cross of St. Andrew

Level: Confirmed
Cost: 100 to 150 Euros
Time: two weekends
Equipment: combined wood, radial saw or radial miter saw, drill

See the plan of this realization (in pdf): Saint André crossguard: the plan

Simple but neat, the guardrail of this small terrace is distinguished by the sober elegance of geometric shapes. Entirely manufactured by our reader Lilian Blanc, the book is easily achievable by a handyman initiated. Indeed, the heavy equipment used here is not essential provided to have a router: the softwood profiles used here are commonly available commercially (or similar sections).

An identical composition adapted to each module

Closing a terrace contiguous to the house, this railing consists of five elements of similar composition. Of the same size, three of them close the front of the terrace. A fourth (slightly larger) closes a sideways return. On the last side, the railing boils down to a return to much smaller dimensions. It is partially occupied by the small staircase to access the garden.

● The frame elements are the usual vertical posts connected by high and low rails. The assembly is done by tenons, mortises and pegs. The end of the posts is protected by flat hats. The rail with three sides, the length of the rails is adapted accordingly.

Diversified assembly modes

The railing is anchored by flat brackets fixed on the beams of the terrace. These fittings are deliberately very visible from the outside. Another solution would have been to fix the posts by galvanized plates. more discreet, this alternative is a little more complex to implement, because it assumes a partial removal of the floor already in place.

● The filling between the rails is made with two uprights and two ties that form a square, assembled with tenon / mortise and glued without pegging. This frame is then intersected by diagonals assembled between them half-timbered and screwed into the corners. Miter cut and screwed between the diagonals, four complementary bars draw a second frame inside the first. In return for the staircase, the space left by the steps allows only one frame of reduced width that does not have an inner frame.

What tools to use?

Our reader uses a "handset" that allows him to cast raw wood and machine to the router. elementary for this handyman heavily tooled, the realization of the railing can be completed without such equipment. In identical or adjacent sections, the sharpened wood is commonly available. Their surface finish is simply achieved by belt sander or orbital sander.

● To make machining easier, replacing studs with false posts can be an alternative. easy to machine at the router, they are inserted at both ends into mortises.

● The other tool used here is a "true" radial saw. Although very practical, it is not widespread among DIYers. The miter saw with radial movement is ample for putting the workpieces to length and obtaining sharp corner cuts. On the other hand, to machine mid-wood assemblies with this machine, it is often necessary to add a stop against the rear guide (a simple cleat). Without these tools, you can always use a manual miter saw: it will only be patience.

What does the regulation say?

Looking at this railing, one might be tempted to think that it does not comply with the safety rules for sizing. However, this standard only applies if the drop height, counted from the parking area (here the floor of the terrace) exceeds one meter high. Since the fall height is lower, it is not mandatory to install a guardrail. The standard advises, however, to establish a fixed barrier of low height such as low wall, acroterium or planter.
In this case, the railing is therefore considered ornamental.

Work on the handset

Work on the handset

Heavy machining is few. In addition to wrought iron, they essentially boil down to the rails and rails of the frames (top cap removed for the readability of the photo).

Mold handrails

Mold handrails

Only the handrails are molded to provide more comfort. A do-it-yourselfer who does not have a router can get a result similar to the router, but in several passes.

Cut the diagonals

Cut the diagonals

After assembly of the frame, the diagonals are presented in place to record the location of the miter cuts. They are then cut with a radial saw on two sides and at each end.

Delimit the notch

Delimit the notch

Half-wood cuts are also machined with a radial saw. The notch is delimited by cutting the two ends. Residual wood is removed by moving the workpiece sideways.

Assemble the spider

Assemble the spider

The brace is presented in its frame. Assembled mid-wood, it will be glued and screwed. But it is not immediately fixed: it is easier to install the bars if it is disassembled.

Screw the bars

Screw the bars

The complementary bars are screwed in trying to hide the points of attachment. The screws that remain visible are chewed.

Varnish

Varnish

The guardrail is completely assembled for control (which supposes to have the necessary space). After varnishing, it is restarted in sections for easy transport and installation.

Set up the guardrail

Set up the guardrail

The installation of the railing begins with the small side. One of the studs is anchored in the wall. The space available between post and frame is sufficient to allow easy screwing.

Add the first section

Add the first section

The first section of the big side is then added. Clamps facilitate the interlocking of the tenons (not forgetting to interpose shims not to mark the wood and varnish).

Set up the square pegs

Set up the square pegs

The square pegs are put in place as and when mounting, then cut with the saw Sterling.


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