This boiler has two combustion chambers: one for fuel oil or gas, the other for solid fuels (coal, wood). This feature makes many services it allows to heat even in case of shortage of gas or fuel and burn old paper and other combustible waste. It also guarantees a dual fuel supply, by limiting the consumption of fuel or gas to the benefit of wood, more environmentally friendly and often cheaper than petroleum fuels.
- Adjustable wrench
- Bubble level
- Cement blocks
- Polycombustible boiler
- Connection lance with four-way valve
- Distribution manifolds (flutes)
- Flue pipe (polyfire)
- Electric box
- Multiconductor electric cable
- Annealed copper tube
- Protective sleeve
1. With concrete blocks, cement and a trowel, build a base plate for the boiler, about 1 m2. If the basement of your house is covered with a solid screed, no need to take this precaution. If the ground is particularly loose, dig a few centimeters so that the base has a solid base.
2. Set up the boiler panels; are insulated with glass wool to retain heat. This dressing is done by simple casing (fixing clips), without screwing (disassembly is also simple). To place the monoblock heating element of the boiler on the soleplate (which integrates all the operating elements), it is necessary to get help. Check the verticality of the device.
3. Assemble the throttle to the heating start pipe of the connection head. Two manual butterfly valves, located before and after this device, allow to isolate it. The connecting line (heating flow and return piping), the four-way control valve and the accelerator are assembled by simple screwing, without any welding. The accelerator used has three speeds that control the volume of water delivered. For ease of assembly, the starting pipes are red and those of return blue.
4. Screw the distribution manifolds (flutes) onto the connecting lyre. The whole assembly is done without welding or soldering, by simple screwing. This system supplies each radiator with an individual return circuit, which can be isolated by valves from the rest of the installation. The installed collectors can supply eight radiators they have eight starts and eight returns. It is possible to switch off one or more radiators ", thus interrupting the heating of certain rooms.
5. Put the flue pipes in place by fitting. It is advisable to install the boiler as close as possible to the flue so that the boiler connection is very short and has few elbows, which favors clogging.
6. Mount the burner block on the firebox plate It is possible to install a gas or fuel burner, or a mixed fuel-gas burner. The cylindrical part (barrel) of the burner must be introduced into the orifice of the firebox. To secure the burner, firmly tighten the four nuts of the backplate with a wrench.
7. Connect the burner to the fuel filter with two flexible ducts. Lock the nuts firmly to ensure a good seal and eliminate fuel leaks. These ducts are the suction pipe and the oil return pipe; the suction pipe must always have a police valve between the filter and the tank, to cut the arrival in case of fire.
8. Fix the wall-mounted electrical box with wall plugs and screws, then connect the burner and the throttle with ducted conductors (or multicore cable). The electrical installation must be waterproof. The electrical box includes the burner switch, the throttle switch and a fuse for each of the two circuits. Place the electrical box away from moisture.
9. Equip the radiators of the faucet and their other accessories: adjusting tee, flywheel diverter, outlet valve and drain plug. Put the radiators in place, using the consoles, in all rooms to be heated. Always carefully choose radiators (near or below the windows) so that there is sufficient air mixing in the room.
10. The radiators are connected to the boiler with annealed copper tubes protected by sheaths and buried in the ground. These sleeves are essential for any buried or embedded piping because they provide a space for expansion (the copper tubes expand under the effect of heat). The supply piping is connected to the manifolds by simple screwing (compression fitting).
11. The radiators are also seamlessly connected to the piping via their compression fitting. It is necessary to check the slope of the radiators using the bubble level (about 3 mm), as well as the slope of the pipes (2 to 3 mm per meter). The supply pipe does not have to be cut since each radiator has an individual circuit.
12. Load the combustion chamber for solid wood fuel (or coal) fuels. The access doors to the fireplace open with a simple lever. For convenience of cleaning, the grate of the solid fuel fireplace is removable. An air valve, controlled by a chain, opens and closes for the regulation of the draft. Perform the water filling, after checking that the hot water tank built into the boiler has been filled.
(photos / visuals: © DIY-Prod, except special mention)
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