- IP and IK: the good signs of protection
- Provide a connection to the earth
- The steps of laying an outdoor "retro" wall lamp
- PRACTICAL ADVICE
Convenient to welcome visitors safely, an outdoor wall also facilitates the opening by illuminating the front door at night. His pose is very simple, especially when the wires are waiting on the wall...
Bollards, sconces, spotlights, floor lamps: Luminaires designed for outdoor use come in a wide range of styles and finishes. Some are solar powered, but most are electrically connected: at very low voltage (from a small transformer) or, as in our example, from the protection board.
IP and IK: the good signs of protection
According to the standard (NF C 15 100), this type of luminaire is subject to specific requirements both in its manufacture and in its implementation, in order to prevent any risk of electrocution.
These requirements are expressed by IP and IK protection ratings.
To each of them corresponds values ranked in order of increasing performance. Those of the IK index (impact resistance) range from 1 to 10.
Those of the IP index consist of two figures: the first one expresses the resistance to the penetration of foreign bodies such as dust (from 0 to 6), the second one, the waterproofness to water (from 0 to 8). The standard recommends choosing products with an IP index of at least 24 or 25 and an IK of between 2 and 7.
When applied as an installation (in IRL-3321 ducts or tubes) or as recessed installation (in an ICA-3321 sleeve), an external lighting circuit must use three 1.5 mm conductors.2: a phase, a neutral and a land. If the earth is useless with a luminaire with double insulation, it is mandatory with a metal device.
Provide a connection to the earth
One can be replaced by the other, so it is always best to provide a ground conductor. It must come from the earth distributor of the electrical panel connected to it, to a real ground (ground stake or other regulatory device).
There is no question of using a piece of wire that gets lost in the masonry or leads to any metal element (pipe, bodyguard, etc.). Such connections are prohibited.
The power supply line must be protected by a 16 A branch circuit breaker (or a 10 A fuse holder) mounted downstream of a high sensitivity switch or circuit breaker (30 mA).
Thus, in case of insulation fault (leakage to earth), the current is immediately cut in the line.
The steps of laying an outdoor "retro" wall lamp
Record the locations of the mounting plate holes on the lintel near the wire exit.
Drill the lintel with a drill and a drill to the diameter of the dowels.
Anchors inserted, screw the plate provided with a threaded rod.
Depending on the type, some screws are hammered.
Finish tightening with the screwdriver.
Longer than necessary, waiting drivers are shortened to only 7 to 8 cm from the wall.
Thread the grommet and strip the ends about 5 mm.
Connect the conductors to the domino respecting the colors: yellow-green for the earth, blue for the neutral and orange, red or black for the phase.
Close the domino casing.
Present the base of the wall light on its mounting plate.
If the domino casing prevents the base from sticking to the wall, push it up a little.
Threaded onto the threaded rod of its mounting plate, the base is pressed against the wall while tightening its retaining nut.
Spherical, it hangs with the fingertips.
The three notches 120° glass globe are to align with the three corresponding lugs of the lampshade.
Then turn the globe very slightly on itself to lock it.
It is not recommended to leave the bulb bare.
But if you make that choice, make sure it is well protected from driving rain, otherwise it will burst once hot.
• Before drilling the masonry (let alone a lintel), use a metal detector: it avoids falling on a reinforcing iron or cutting the recessed conductors, responsible for powering the luminaire!
• When using a hammer drill, start with a smaller diameter drill bit before turning to the final diameter. Do not drill too close to an edge so as not to burst it. Drill beyond the length of the dowels; the dust will thus accumulate at the bottom of the hole under the thrust of the ankle, without preventing it from sinking completely.