Implementing fringe overhangs has several advantages. First, they have a finished appearance, they then limit the heat loss in the attics.
The pose can be done in two ways; perpendicular or parallel to the wall.
- Nail set
- Scaffolding or ladder
- Make a pose perpendicular to the wall
- Make a pose parallel to the wall
Make a pose perpendicular to the wall
1. Using a chalk line, draw a line on the top of the wall at the same level as the lower edge of the sewer board. This line will serve as a reference, for a fairly thick board that must be firmly fixed flat on the wall.
2. Once the dimensions are taken, make two wooden triangles that will close the two ends of the formwork.
3. Each triangle must then be nailed to the inside of the end chevron, its base to be horizontal.
4. It is then time to implement the first blade of curl, taking care to position the tab on the outside. Cut it a little longer than necessary, in order to achieve a regular leveling in the finishing phase.
5. The fixation may be carried out by a classic nailing on the lower edge of the sewer board, but also on that of the board attached to the wall.
For reasons of appearance, the head of copper or stainless steel nails, must be hunted under the wood and rebouched in the wood pulp.
It can also achieve this pose with stapled fixtures, invisible to assembly and easy to disassemble.
6. In this case, place the fixtures in the stapler, the fastest way and avoid any sharp spots.
7. When laying the next blade, cover the fixette, making it completely invisible.
8. Shred the blades of the curl, this is a relatively delicate operation.
To ensure a good result, use a sufficiently sharp and compact saw, because of a limited stroke length.
Note that the sewer board can serve as a guide.
9. Then nail a profile of wooden angle. The latter must have a sufficient width, in order to hide the wood at the end of the fretted blades. Choose copper or stainless steel tips.
Make a pose parallel to the wall
1. Unlike perpendicular laying, this method of installation does not require the prior fixing of a board attached to the wall. You can nail directly under the rafters a length of curl. This must be positioned at the end, with the groove facing outwards. Let it overflow the pinion.
2. Once the first row of blades is in place, fit each row to follow according to the groove / tongue principle. Do not forget to respect the offset of the joints between the blades.
3. Nailing is the only method of fastening possible here. This operation is a little more complex for the last rows. We can ensure the maintenance of the last blades with triangular wedges, which are supported on both the wall and the blade of curl. They will be easier to nail.
4. To optimize the finish, drive the heads of the nails under the surface of the curl, then hide them with wood paste.
5. The curl once in place does not undergo any special efforts. For this reason, the junction of the ends of the blades is possible, out of the surface of the rafters. Then strike the end of the blade, after fitting the groove on the tongue of the previous blade.
For this work, it is better to use a mallet rather than a hammer.
6. The same should be done with the flat of the hammer head, because of the reduced space. This technique is the simplest to get to wedge the blades together when they are assembled along their length. Once one is sure of the good positioning, one can nail the whole.
7. In order to hide the edge of the first laid blade, nail a quarter round on the edge of the sewer strip.
Its thickness is enough to hide the space between the two woods, but also the groove of the curl.
8. Finish this work by sawing the overhangs of the gable blades, flush with the outer face of the last rafters.
9. Apply a finish stain, but also a varnish or a microporous paint for wood.
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