Vital for a motor with liquid cooling, the water pump is not eternal... When its bearings take the game or if it starts to leak, it is time to replace it because it can not be repaired.
A liquid-cooled engine does not work long without a water pump in good condition... Now, after a number of years, this essential piece ends up showing signs of fatigue: a seepage appears under the gland of the bearings 'tree or even these bearings take too much play... In both cases, impossible to consider a repair: the pump can only be replaced by an identical model.
Do not limit yourself to the pump
You can buy the pump from a dealership or find a model of an adaptable brand at a lower cost in a car center. One can also get one used in a breakage. But you have to be sure of the model and there is no guarantee. Also, who knows how long the piece will last... Replacing a water pump also encourages change the coolant (if he is over two years old), as well as Hoses if they are cracked and preventively, calorstat. A piece that does not cost much but plays a vital role in modulating the flow of coolant to the radiator. Closed when the engine is cold, the calorstat gradually opens as the engine warms up. The calorstat therefore has both the task of accelerating the rise in temperature of the engine and then avoiding overheating and its consequences. This is precisely the risk when the calorstat no longer opens.
Drain before dismantling
Whatever the car, its water pump is driven by a belt, from the crankshaft of the engine. Often, this belt is also used to drive other parts (alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor...). This is why the configuration changes from one car to another even if the engines are identical. The pump is thus more or less accessible and may require the removal of other organs. The operation involveswait until the engine is cold then drain the cooling circuit. The liquid will be collected in a can and put in a dump. Some of the screws that hold the pump body are not very accessible but there is always at least one type of key (eye, cons-bent...) or accessory (extension for a socket wrench...) to achieve its ends. Some screws can be stuck or stuck. But as long as their head is intact, it is still possible to unlock them.
- The alternator is here connected to the water pump by a tab that maintains the tension of their common belt.
- Loosen the tabs on the tab to loosen the strap and remove both.
- Unplug the water temperature sensor and loosen the hose clamps of the water pump: two small ones for the heating of the cabin and two big ones connected to the radiator of the engine.
- No need to remove the pump pulley to access the screws: instead align one of the holes in the pulley with each of the screw heads to loosen them.
- Remove the water pump.
- On the cylinder head side, the joint plane retains traces of the old paper seal...
- Scrape them with a spatula taking care not to scratch the joint plane.
- Finish with the wire brush.
- If the water temperature sensor is not replaced, brush its threads to remove old sealant and refill with sealant.
- A new pump is supplied with its seal but not a second hand...
- Cut one in special paper or put some paste on the joint planes (cylinder head side and pump).
- Open the expansion tank.
- Remove the radiator cap and arrange a funnel to fill the radiator, expansion tank and the entire cooling system with "all-season" liquid.
- Remove the bleed screw from the cooling system and start the engine.
- If the expansion tank can be moved, raise it to facilitate evacuation of the air in the system.
Practical tips for handyman
- Before assembly, the paper seal of a new pump may be oiled or accommodate a thin, continuous bead of joint compound. A good paste may eventually replace the seal itself if it is missing on a used pump.
- If you do not have enough space, no garage or you do not have the necessary tools, you can get closer to a "solidarity" garage such as selfgarage.org