- Practical advice
- Isolate to save
- The OSB panel
- You want to insulate your attic at € 1?
- Vertical and horizontal cleats
- Anchor the cleats
- Re-cut the extruded polystyrene sheets
- Raising the panels
- Milling a rabbet
- Screw the panels
- Insert a tongue of plywood
- To paint
- Insulate the walls in rough blocks of a cellar
The doubling of the walls of a workshop in the basement can simultaneously improve its thermal insulation and facilitate its development. By choosing wood panels, it is indeed possible to attach many accessories to the wall.
It is best to avoid entry-level OSB to choose a branded product (Isoroy, Kronos...). These manufacturers are working to improve adhesives to reduce harmful emissions of formaldehyde.
Since a workshop is generally not heated, it is preferable to choose a class 3 OSB, which can accept a point humidity. If your premises is really wet, it is better to opt for a Class 4 OSB.
Isolate to save
Whether it is a reserve, a workshop or a garage, the outbuildings are often unheated and humid rooms in winter. They are difficult to use: premature expiration of products, rust, condensation, mold, etc. As long as the walls are regular and healthy, the insulation partly solves these problems. And if the room is integrated at home, it helps to realize energy savings.
The OSB panel
In an outhouse, there are always accessories or equipment to hang on the wall. Plasterboard is therefore not a good choice because anchoring is difficult, and resistance to tearing limited. A wood panel is better suited: screws, hooks or bolts can be installed without even using dowels.
● Compared to other wood products such as chipboard and plywood, the OSB panel (Oriented Strand Board) offers the best price / weight / strength compromise. This type of panel consists of large strips of wood oriented and glued together. So it works like a plywood or slatted board...
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Although slightly more expensive than expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene is more durable than mineral wools that tend to settle over time. It is also easier and more pleasant to ask. Especially it has a good thickness / quality of insulation, which limits the size of the dubbing, an important point in tight spaces.
The OSB panel is here screwed onto a framework made of 40 x 40 mm treated battens. The width of the panels being 125 cm, the spacing of the cleats is 62.5 cm. Each panel is thus fixed in three points. In the corners of the room or near the door frames, the cleats are brought closer if necessary. To allow the anchoring of heavy objects and shelves, other cleats run horizontally at 1 m and 1.80 m from the ground.
● Each cleat is anchored to the block by four or five pins to hit and glued with a seal of "no nail or screw" type. 30 mm thick, the extruded polystyrene panels are resized to the dimensions of the available space between the cleats, before being forcibly engaged or glued.
● To prevent any risk of mold, the back of the panels is ventilated. A void is provided at the top and bottom of the uprights, and a day of 2 cm is left at the ends of the horizontal cleats. It only remains to stall against the wall polystyrene plates. The OSB is then screwed to the cleats. Either directly for the anchoring in full panel, or via a tongue of plywood for joints. This tongue prevents bursting of the fragile edges of the panel and gives it a slight possibility of play in case of hygrometric variations.
Vertical and horizontal cleats
The OSB lining is fixed on a framework of vertical cleats. The horizontal cleats will allow to hang heavy loads through the panels.
Anchor the cleats
The anchoring of the cleats to the wall is double: polyurethane adhesive sealant, and dowels to hit. These are inserted into holes drilled with milling to accommodate the screw heads.
Re-cut the extruded polystyrene sheets
The extruded polystyrene plates are resized to the dimensions of the spaces between cleats. Thinner than the frame, the insulation allows air to circulate behind the panels.
Raising the panels
During installation, the panels are slightly raised with shims, to provide air circulation at the bottom of the wall. The same space is left at the limit of the ceiling.
Milling a rabbet
An 8 x 10 mm rabbet is milled on the side of each joined panel. It allows their fixing by tongue: the edge of the material would not support a direct screwing.
Screw the panels
The panels are first screwed to the cleat coinciding with their vertical axis. For angles: to those in which screwing can be done more than 2 cm from the edges.
Insert a tongue of plywood
A plywood tongue is inserted into the rabbet of the adjacent panels. It is directly screwed to the cleat, taking the sandwich OSB without the screws through it.
Painted in white, the dubbing returns light in this poorly lit room. OSB can be left raw, varnished or stained to color without masking the specific OSB grain.
Insulate the walls in rough blocks of a cellar
Can we isolate a cellar in the basement with plasterboard lined with glass wool. How to hold them?
Christian Pessey's answer:
If the walls of this winery are regular and above all free of moisture, we can easily isolate them with composite panels (combination of an insulator with a plasterboard). It will be enough to stick them with a specific glue (provide eight to nine glue sticks per square meter, applied to the back of the plates). Panels 110 mm thick (100 mm insulation and 10 mm plate) give an R * of nearly 3.
* Thermal resistance.