- Necessary material
- Long wave infrared: efficient and efficient heating
- Heating mirror: a cheap kit
- Easy construction
- Frame manufacturing
- Info +
- Tip: a carpenter's scraper to replace an electric sander
- Setting up the mirror and film
- Connection to the mains
How to turn a mirror into a radiator? By inserting a heating film between this mirror and an insulator. The film emits far infrared, that is to say that it heats in a way comparable to solar radiation.
- Miter saw
- slat milling machine
- router or ripper
- screwdriver drill
- eccentric sander
- mirror ep. 4 mm
- heating film (Ceilingo)
- insulation ep. 6 mm (Depron)
- planed wood 20 x 60 mm
- electrician tape
- duct tape
- wood screw 3,5 x 35 mm
- polyurethane varnish
- medium grain sandpaper, fine and extra-fine.
Cost: about 130 €
Time: a day
A long wave infrared heating mirror is a pleasant auxiliary heater combining aesthetics and comfort.
In a bathroom, its radiation offers a feeling of warmth and its operation also prevents fogging on its surface.
Long wave infrared: efficient and efficient heating
At the back of the mirror, a carbon filament is fixed uniformly, while a thermal insulator prevents heat loss.
Infrared radiation does not heat the air (unlike convection): it is absorbed by solids (walls and furniture) and is returned as heat.
It is these same infra-red that allow, winter in the mountains, to put in a T-shirt without feeling cold despite a negative temperature.
These appliances are also less energy-consuming than conventional radiators. It takes from 65 to 80 W / m2, against 100 W / m2 for a traditional electric heating.
Heating mirror: a cheap kit
The mirror should be slightly larger than the heating film. It is best to order it before buying the rest of the supplies.
On the Internet, there are films of width 33 or 55 cm for a length ranging from 32 to 236 cm for a price ranging from 22 to 82 € (Ceilingo).
For larger widths, several heating strips can be connected.
A basic thermostat (15 €) is enough to regulate the power supply. A cutting mirror costs around 50 € / m2, insulation 6 € / m2 and the wood 30 €.
Thus, this mirror 125 x 70 cm, small supplies included, is 130 €.
Building it yourself generates a substantial saving compared to ready-to-use heating mirrors of comparable size and power (around € 830).
The frame should be thick enough to accommodate the mirror, the film (leaving a small peripheral margin) and the insulation.
For the latter, it is possible to use a drop of rock wool or wood or buy a panel of expanded polystyrene (EPS). The latter has the advantage of being thinner.
For our realization, we used high density EPS (Depron, Leroy Merlin).
A double frame maintains all the layers and facilitates the attachment of the mirror.
The second frame is screwed to the back of the first. It thus makes it possible to dismantle the device in order to easily access the heating film.
Note that it is even easier to transform an existing mirror by simply replacing this back frame with a thin thin wall plate or any other method that keeps the mirror, the heating film and the insulation pressed against each other..
On the cross members and uprights of the façade frame, make a 10 x 10 mm groove and a 45° chamfer on the inside edges of the frame.
Cut these ties and uprights at 45°, then machine the assemblies with a pigeon using a milling machine.
The rear frame is, he assembled straight cut.
For accurate miter cuts, use an electric or manual miter saw after setting the tilt of the bracket to 45°.
There are also guidance devices for Japanese saw or cutting boxes for backhoe saws.
Glue the edges and notches, insert the pigeons, mount the frames by clamping them together.
Check the squareness (the diagonals must be the same length).
Measure the frame at the bottom of the rabbet to determine the dimensions of the mirror to be controlled by a glazier (4 mm clear mirror, rough edges).
Provide a peripheral clearance of about 2 mm.
Sand the frame with an orbital sander to make the miter cuts flush (medium grain 80 to 120).
Polish the chamfers by hand (fine grain 180).
Tip: a carpenter's scraper to replace an electric sander
If you do not have an electric sander, you can get an excellent finish with a carpenter squeegee. This tool, simple and economical, however requires to be properly sharpened to the stone and the sharpener.
Spread a first coat of polyurethane varnish with a brush.
Hand-slit (extra-fine grit 400 sandpaper) before a second coat of finish.
Setting up the mirror and film
Turn over and place the façade frame on a perfectly flat surface.
Place the mirror in the rabbets.
Spread the heating film against the back of the mirror and center it, leaving a regular peripheral margin of at least 2 cm.
Test the operation of the heating film and the thermostat by making a temporary connection.
Put your hand on the film to feel the rise in temperature
Secure the edge of the film against the mirror with an electricians tape.
Cut out an insulating plate by taking the dimensions of the frame at the bottom of rebate.
With a pair of scissors, cut the insulation around the cable outlets, where the film has an extra thickness.
Secure the insulation to the frame with duct tape.
Screw the back frame.
The mirror, the heating film and the insulation are tight and held in the double frame.
The attachment of the mirror to the wall is mounted on this rear frame.
Connection to the mains
Connect the thermostat to the mains according to the electrical standards (1.5 mm² cables, 10 A circuit breaker for a maximum power of 2250 W).
If you can not pass the cables through the wall to place the thermostat away from the mirror, it is always possible to fix it against the frame.