- Necessary material
- Adapted tools
- Adjusted frame
- Functional hardware stores
- Shaping openwork flaps
- Realization of the panels
- Making frames
- Info for DIYers
- Shutter assembly
- Laying of the sleeping frame
Very common in the southern regions, these shutters can effectively protect themselves from the sun while letting the air through. An achievement that requires good tools and a little dexterity.
- Panel press
- Screwdriver drill
- Circular saw
- Wood or combined machine or planed wood
- Chestnut wood
- 2 interlocking stops 272 mm
- 2 shutter stops 453 mm
- 4 reinforced bent hinges 160 x 80 x 95 mm
- 4 straight furniture pivots
- Wood screws 5 x 60/5 x 30 / 3,5 x 25 mm
- Concrete screw 7,5 x 112 mm
- Wood glue for outdoor
- Colored stain for outdoor
- Assembly slats
- Medium grain abrasive (No. 120)
Cost: 200 €
Time: 3 days
Find the plan of this realization on duitdesign.com/boutique
Frequent in southern countries, the swing shutters projection, or Italian shutters, protect from the sun and looks without obscuring the view. The movable frame is generally located in the lower part of the flap. Nothing prevents however to put it at the level of the eyes, in order to take advantage of the landscape.
The manufacture of these shutters requires a combination of wood. But if we do not have such a tool, we can also order panels and sections of wood corrected and make assemblies with power tools (router milling machine, double jig, drill-driver equipped with a guide for tourillonner...). Making assemblies with mortise and tenons by hand (saw sharpening, chisel, chisel) is also possible, but requires patience and dexterity.
In our case, the tables, supports and lintels were too irregular and degraded to consider the installation of shutters on sealed hinges. We therefore opted to add a sleeping frame: it forms a frame adjusted in the table, between lintel and support. Reinforced bent hinges are attached, to deport the axis of rotation of the flaps and allow them to rotate 180° or fall back against the facade. With bays in good condition, the hinges can be fixed directly into the masonry. Hinges then iron shutters.
Functional hardware stores
The upper hook (stop entrebâilleur) keeps the flap open, or close at the same time flap and flap. The lower hook, screwed on the lower crossbar, keeps the shutter open, ajar or closed. In this case, each pane is locked by two hooks, which makes it more difficult to force. As for the wood, it is necessary to favor a resistant essence in external environment (oak, chestnut, douglas...) and to provide a complementary protection with a stain anti-UV.
Shaping openwork flaps
- Debit and wrinkle sleepers and flaps and flaps.
- Machine the tenons to the top.
- Fit two saw blades, spaced according to the thickness of the post.
- Cut the levelings and shoulders with the radial saw, after having adjusted its depth stop.
- If you do not have a woodworking machine, you can use a portable domino milling machine, a drill and a trunnion guide, or you can machine the posts with a manual saw.
- The edges of the intermediate sleepers are inclined to allow the flow of water.
- Use a router or hand plane.
- Mark the location of the mortises on all the uprights at the same time at the square, identifying the area to be machined.
- Unless you have opted for dominoes or trunnions, then dig mortises with the slot mortise chisel square, or by hand (drill, chisel and chisel).
- Glue tenons and mortises with an exterior glue and insert the flaps.
- First tighten the intermediate sleepers between the uprights, then the uprights between the low and high sleepers.
Realization of the panels
- To form panels from planed planks, mill bolt-to-router assemblies to the router or reamer.
- Glue the edges and then block the panels during all the drying.
- Thin the edges of the panel to the width of the groove (10 mm) with a flatbed cutter or machine a tongue with a gap of expansion between the frame and the panel.
- Sand the flower bed by hand.
- To conform to its curved shape, use a medium-grit sandpaper (# 120) folded in four or a soft wedge.
- The intermediate and low cross members receive a groove for holding the panels.
- On the studs, machine a groove between two mortises (intermediate and low) by placing stops on the router table.
- And on the piece itself if you work at the router.
- Make a rabbet on the upper and middle sleepers of the frame and the flap.
- Dig the notches for the pins at the router (Ø 8 mm grooving bit).
- Mount blank (without gluing) all parts except the panel.
- Check the assemblies and the pivoting of the flap.
- Make any adjustments.
- Place a 30° pilot cutter into the router pliers to machine a chamfer in the panel bezel before disassembling the frame.
Info for DIYers
Once assembled, flaps and panels can no longer be dismantled: treat them first with an impregnating layer (colored stain for outdoor use). Two layers will then finish after assembly. For colorless products and dark shades, prefer formulas with mineral or inorganic pigments, better hold.
- Glue the tenons and assemble the elements.
- Do not glue the panel, because the wood undergoes variations, especially outdoors; bridled, it might crack.
- Tighten with three clamps placed in the axis of the assemblies.
- Check the flatness and squareness by measuring the diagonals (they must be the same length).
- Machine the router or ripper a rabbet (half the thickness of the amounts) for the connection between the left shutters (rabbet on the outside) and right (on the inside).
- To cut the notches to receive the bent hinges, cut with a jigsaw a machining template in a panel drop.
- It is intended to guide a copying ring fixed under the soleplate of the router, equipped with a milling cutter (Ø 16 mm or less).
- Screw the hinges on the inside of the shutters.
- Draw on the edges of the sleeping amounts the corresponding notches, to be made as for the bent hinges.
Laying of the sleeping frame
- Install the shutters with the frame jambs on the window sill and cross members.
- Draw the marks of the assemblies after adjusting the width of the assembly.
- A pigeon assembly makes it possible to accurately position the sleepers (doubling the lintel and window sill) and the frame posts.
- Consolidate the assembly with screws of 5 x 60 mm, after having made pre-holes on the sleepers (the heads of screws will be hidden once all assembled).
- Always treat the pieces of wood before assembling them.
- Screw down stops (about 30 cm) on the flaps; they allow to keep them open when the hook is placed in the rabbet of the intermediate cross.
- The dormant frames are wedged against the lintel, leveled and fixed by Ø 7.5 mm concrete screws.
- Caulk the masonry berry with expansive polyurethane foam.
- Screw shutter stops (approximately 45 cm) between the bottom rail of the shutters and the window frame.
- Finish the façade with a peripheral seal with lime mortar.