- To arrange your kitchen with method
- Heights and widths of kitchen furniture
- Successful plumbing in the kitchen
- Securing the electrical installation of a kitchen
- Equipotentiality in the kitchen
The layout of a kitchen requires precisely defining the place of each device. This is a prerequisite for the implementation of networks: water inflow, evacuation and electrical circuits.
To define a rational layout and make the right choices, to draw a plan indicating the location of the various determining elements: door, window, water, gas, evacuation, flue, etc.
To arrange your kitchen with method
Before starting, it is necessary to determine the place of the different poles: cooking (plate, oven), preparation (sink, work plan) and storage (refrigerator, storage). These three poles form what specialists call "the activity triangleThey must be thought of in order to reduce the number of steps taken daily.
Cooking, preparation and storage are the three activity zones of a kitchen. The less you walk, the more this room is functional.
- C: Cooking zone
- P: Preparation Zone
- S: Storage area
Heights and widths of kitchen furniture
The layout is then refined according to the available furniture widths (30 to 120 cm), with locations for dishes and utensils near the preparation area. Dishes and cutlery are stored near the sink and dishwasher (high and low boxes).
Adjustable thanks to the feet of the boxes, the height of the worktop is defined according to the size of the users, by measuring the distance of the elbow (bent forearm) on the ground, minus 10 to 15 cm. It can be upgraded for the sink and preparation areas (up to 103 cm) or downward (85 cm) for the cooking pole. The high cabinets are installed about 60 cm above the worktop.
- H1: Height of the worktop: 90 to 100 cm
- P1: Depth of low boxes: 60 to 67 cm
- H2: Tall furniture height: 50 to 60 cm
- P2: Depth of high boxes: 35 to 37 cm
- Hh: Hood height 65 to 75 cm from the hob
Successful plumbing in the kitchen
Traditionally, water arrivals are copper. These are Ø 12/14 mm rigid tubes (Ø int./ext.) Heated and bent on demand or receiving 90° bends. Cold water pipes and fittings are brazed with tin (soft soldering at 400° C) and copper-phosphorus for hot water (soldering at 800° C). Copper pipes also accept seamless joints, as do hand-bendable pipes in PER or multilayer. The evacuations are made with PVC pipes laid on a slope of 1 to 2 cm / m. Elbows and fittings are glued (PVC glue).
- Ag: Gas inlet
- A1: Power supply tap Ø 12 / 14mm (copper)
- A2: Dishwasher power supplies Ø 10 / 12mm (copper)
- E1: Sink drain Ø 40mm (PVC)
- E2: Dishwasher drain Ø 40mm (PVC)
Securing the electrical installation of a kitchen
The standard NF C 15-100 requires all kitchen electrical circuits to be preceded by one or more high-sensitivity differential circuit breakers (30 mA), to be divided into two types (for example, the hob on a type A, the oven and the washing machine). dishes on a type AC). They power a series of sockets (non-specialized circuits) to which are added specialized circuits for each of the major appliances. The capacity of the protection of the fuse or circuit breaker and the section of the conductors (wires) of this part of the electrical installation depend on the power of the appliances to be powered: 10 or 16 A and 1.5 mm2 for lighting; 16 or 20 A and 2.5 mm2 for a circuit of six maximum sockets, four of which are placed above the worktop (other sockets can be installed from a circuit outside the kitchen). Specialized circuits have only one socket, each independently supplying a device with protection identical to a 2.5 mm circuit2 for a dishwasher, refrigerator or oven (which requires a cable outlet); 32 A and 6 mm2 for a cooktop or a range.
It is necessary to count at least 300 lumens / m2 (ie 300 lux) to see clearly and do not hesitate to multiply the sources (LED spots) under the high furniture.
- Pm: Wall socket 16 or 20 A (Ø 2,5mm²)
- Pp: 32 A plate socket (Ø 6mm²)
- F: 16 or 20 A oven cable outlet (Ø 2,5mm²)
- Pfg: Refrigerator socket 16 or 20 A (Ø 2,5mm²)
- P Lv: Dishwasher socket 16 or 20 A (Ø 2,5mm²)
- é: Lighting 10 or 16 A (Ø 1,5mm²)
- eq: Equipotentiality
Equipotentiality in the kitchen
Unlike a bathroom, a kitchen does not need a local equipotential bond if its network is made of a synthetic material (PER, multilayer). What does not exempt the housing from having a main equipotential bond: it connects all the metal pipelines (water, gas, heating pipes, etc.) by means of ground wires, which reach the earth distributor of the electrical panel, then to the earth electrode of the house.