- Cupping to fix on tiles
- The collage on the carelage
- The dowel on tiling
- Chemical sealing
- Piercing tile tiles
- Drill in the joints
- Drilling in full tile
The question of fixing in the tiles is always delicate. It all depends, of course, on the object or accessory to fix. The question of weight is obviously essential: we do not fix in the same way a bathroom cabinet and a hook to hang a washcloth.
Fixing methods depend closely on the nature and especially the weight of the objects to be fixed.
Cupping to fix on tiles
Suction cups may be suitable for light items such as towel hooks or cup holders or toothbrushes. This fastening system has the advantage of not imposing any bonding or drilling and thus preserve the tiles. However, even if the object is very light, it is rare that the suction cup does not come off one day or the other, the air finally seeping between the suction cup and the support.
For proper fastening, the tile must be clean, degreased and free of dust. The suction pad will be slightly moistened to promote the suction phenomenon.
The collage on the carelage
Bonding is only possible with high performance acrylic or polymer glue. It is also possible to use double-sided adhesive pellets which allow the attachment of objects, but especially that of mirror tiles. Again, ensure that the media is perfectly degreased.
The dowel on tiling
Anchoring is the safest method of securely fastening items and accessories of a certain weight or heavy load to the wall. This technique starts of course with a drilling, for the realization of a hole of calibrated diameter, in which one slides a expanding ankle whose nature will depend on the load to bear (from the simple cylindrical pin to the metal expansion pin).
It must be taken into account that any expansion system induces a risk of tiling of the tiles by dilation of the masonry of the support.To make an anchor for a very heavy object, such as a bath heater:
- use expansion metal dowels exerting strong pressure on the tiles and masonry;
- place a felt washer to distribute the pressure and prevent the tiles from bursting.
Finally, the fact that a wall is tiled does not dispense with the use of an ankle in relation to the nature of the wall. Be careful, especially, hollow walls (hollow bricks, breeze blocks) and especially the partitions gypsum plasterboard that require rocking dowels or other equivalent systems!
This term refers to a sealing method consisting of filling a hole or a cavity with a synthetic product which, after hardening, will lend itself better to screwing and anchoring than the masonry material itself. This method of sealing has the advantage of avoiding the expansion that undergoes any dying masonry and its coating. This type of product is very interesting to fix in the tiles.
Chemical sealing also involves the drilling of a hole, but the fixing is done by means of a material which, by solidifying, seals the anchor or allows screwing and tightening. This solution, which is becoming more and more followers, eliminates the risks related to the expansion of the ankles.
Piercing tile tiles
The drilling of tiles is always a risk; this is why it is often advisable to make the holes in the joints, between the tiles themselves, when the spacing of the tiles is compatible with the required drilling diameter.
Drill in the joints
Drilling in joints should only be considered if the diameter of the hole is much smaller than the width of the joint, especially if it is then necessary to insert an anchor in the hole; otherwise, the expansion, at the time of screwing, would result in a compression of the tile that would split immediately. It is recommended to drill into the joint at the meeting point of four tiles.
1. Begin by accurately determining the location of future holes, using a bubble level to ensure alignment.
2. Drill the holes with a wick of the same diameter as the dowels, ensuring that the dowels are always a little smaller than the gap forming the joint.
3. Push the dowels into the holes; to avoid the ankle refusing to sink completely, to blow beforehand in the hole to drive away the drilling residues.
Drilling in full tile
Full-surface drilling requires a number of precautions and a particular method:
- stick two pieces of cross-tape on the tile surface to the location where you wish to drill;
- use an electronic dimmer drill with very low speed;
- take a tungsten carbide drill designed for drilling ceramic;
- position the wick accurately by stitching it into the tape;
- start drilling very slowly, then accelerate to mid-speed when the bit bit into the material, finally move to the maximum speed to remove the wick when the depth is reached (it is necessary to use a depth stop).
(photos / visuals: © DYI-Prod, except special mention)
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