- Prepare the woodwork before painting
- Primary hanging
- Holes and cracks in the woodwork
- Sand exterior woodwork
- Prepare the walls before painting
- Filling cracks in a wall to paint
Before leaving the brushes, a preparation work is required. Three essential steps to the good performance of the paintings.
Paint manufacturers remind him of all their packaging: "the surface to be painted must be healthy, clean, dry and properly prepared". You are warned, do not burn the steps.
Holes and cracks should be capped and the walls should have a smooth surface. Depending on the materials, underlays of attachment are sometimes essential.
Some tips to simplify your life.
Prepare the woodwork before painting
- They can be repainted directly if the old paint is in good condition (no blistering or chipped areas).
- A good leaching (Saint-Marc, not to mention the household gloves) followed by a careful rinse with clear water prepares the surface.
- Sand the glossy paints to promote the grip of the new film.
... and the new ones
- They are getting ready with a commercial pore filler.
- Otherwise, pass a layer of diluted paint: it acts as a primer.
- Before the final layer, sand with fine sandpaper (120): the wood fibers tend to straighten up after the first coat of paint.
Too smooth, wooden surfaces are difficult to paint. The use of a "primer" is recommended, especially if it is new wood. Milky appearance, the primer (Julien, SB Mercier...) is diluted in a little water and applied by brush or roller.
The self-smoothing film dries quickly and becomes transparent while taking a satin appearance.
The material is cleaned with water.
Holes and cracks in the woodwork
The large holes are closed with a wood paste sold with its hardener (tube or pot).
- For cracks and scratches, prefer the body builder, a very fine texture.
- It mixes with a hardener (just before use), and is applied with a plastic spatula or a painter's knife.
- Fast curing (10 minutes) allows immediate sanding and painting in stride.
Sand exterior woodwork
The lower outer part of the windows is more exposed to the weather and requires special treatment before being repainted.
To put the wood bare, the eccentric sander is well adapted to the curved profile of this woodwork.
Dust off and pass a damp cloth before resealing the slots with woodpulp or resin.
Sand after curing and ensure that the surface is smooth to promote the flow of rainwater.
Prepare the walls before painting
The little flaws...
An ankle hole in the masonry, a skirting board that "yawns" along a wall, the imprint of a nail head on a wooden molding... To hide the small surface defects, simply block them with silicone sealant for masonry (available in cartridge and ready-to-use spray gun):
- Once the cannula is cut, squeeze the trigger and place the necessary amount.
- Smooth the sealant with a finger moistened with soapy water.
- Leave to dry: wait an hour or two before painting.
... and the big ones
Anticipate the purchase of a filling or smoothing compound ready for use (in pots). If the site is small (one piece), use powdered products to dilute, they are dosed according to the surface.
- Follow the manufacturer's instructions, starting with the following: "the powder is poured in rain in the water, and not the opposite".
- Let it soak for a few minutes before stirring the mixture, add a little water or powder to obtain the consistency (paste) desired.
- Leave for a few minutes before stirring again.
- The coating is ready for use.
Cleared of its wallpaper, a newly exposed wall can reveal suspicious swellings on the surface. Here is a simple way to check if it is a detachment of plaster, or a simple surface defect.
In case of bulge, tap the top with the index: if the sound is full, dull, it is a simple lack of flatness of the wall.
Conversely, a clear sound indicates a detachment of the plaster. It is imperative to treat.
Circle the area by probing with the handle of a tool: the difference in tone marks the outline.
- Materialize the perimeter with a pencil line.
- Follow it with the tip of a cutter blade to cut the plaster on a millimeter or two deep.
- Blow up the layer of peeled plaster with a painter's knife.
- The purge stops at the border of the cutter line.
- Apply the filling compound with a metal smoother.
- Guide yourself on the existing plaster for thickness.
- Do not try to obtain a smooth surface: on the contrary, "load" a little to anticipate the shrinkage that is observed after hardening the coating.
- Sand and finish with a smoothing compound.
- Let dry.
- After hardening, sand.
Filling cracks in a wall to paint
The cracks on the ceiling and on the walls are the visible witnesses of the movements of the construction over the years (not to be confused with the cracks, wider). More often spectacular than disturbing, they are quite easy to mask. Which does not mean that they will not reappear.
- Widen the edges of the crack with a triangular scraper following the outline of the slot.
- Otherwise, the blade tip of a plaster knife does the trick.
- Press firmly without worrying that a little bit of plaster is leaking locally: it will be closed at the end.
- When the crack is open, moisten it with a water spray or a brush dipped in water.
- Previously, remove dust and plaster debris with a brush or better yet, passing the tip of the vacuum hose.
- Prepare the filler and fill the crack by pushing the product inside with the blade of a painter's knife.
- Smooth by sliding the blade obliquely on the wall. It does not matter if the flatness is not perfect.
- Sand after drying and curing.
Finish the repair by applying a finishing coat with a wide spatula (steel or plastic).
Thinner than the filling compound, this coating fills small imperfections and ensures a "ready to paint" surface after final sanding.