- Make a clean space before starting
- Prefer work in summer
- 1 BREAKING THE WALLS
- 2 TABLE CHOICE
- 3 JOINING AND FINISHING
Redesigning a room is not just a matter of fashion. It's also a way to feel better in one's walls. Even if we just go through it, as in the case of an entry...
Cost: about 10 € / m2 (water-repellent plasterboard, multifunction plaster, acrylic undercoat, finishing paints, PSE insulation and glue)
Time: 7 days (depending on the condition of the support and the desired finish)
Equipment: meter, ruler, cutter, painter tools, screwdriver, slow speed mixer, eccentric sander, construction vacuum cleaner, step ladder...
Effect paints, decorative coatings... the solutions are not lacking to give more character to a room. But when his character is present a little old, what to do? Reverse the roles: it is no longer the beams, doors and woodwork (repainted here in light gray) that have the spotlight, but the walls and ceilings... dressed in red!
Make a clean space before starting
Rejuvenating a room involves putting one's walls bare, so to put everything in it: shelves or small furniture, hubcaps and wall switches, radiators if necessary.
Everything can of course be protected with masking tape and tarpaulins, but with what result? A wallpaper, or a fortiori a fabric, stopped around a wall object is never as well placed as if it covers the surface behind it or, at least, behind its visible edges.
Here, the only exceptions are the circuit breaker (leaded) and the switchgear cabinet.
The latter may be removed after cutting the general power supply, the time to coat, paint or retap the corresponding wall.
Prefer work in summer
No problem, however, to remove the hubcaps plugs and switches (after turning off the power). It is enough to replace the mechanisms of the switches or the bases of taken by dominoes.
Although electric radiators can also be installed without problems, the same is not true of central heating radiators. You must first close their valve (or thermostatic valve), as well as the adjustment tee located at the outlet (on the return circuit).
But if the latter is absent, it is better to plan to empty the installation, which requires the work to be done outside the heating period.
1 BREAKING THE WALLS
Put down the radiators (here, an old electric convector). Continue with the wall covering (fabric stretched over a lining).
Cut it with the cutter from the outbound corners.
Tear off the metal strips and chopsticks. Also remove the leftover cutter from the baseboard with the cutter.
Disconnect the power in the circuits of the sockets and switches before removing their plates. Then blow up the flats that were used to hold the fabric around the boxes.
Degraded, the old paneling of the front door must be refurbished. Draw in old plasterboards, here with a plasterer hatchet (or other similar tool).
2 TABLE CHOICE
Post the table's dimensions on a drywall. Mark the cut of a cutter line along a ruler or other plate.
Break the fall and separate it by cutting on the wrong side.
Check that the plate is properly adjusted before applying the glue as studs. Present the plate and use a large ruler to press and spread the pressure all the way up.
3 JOINING AND FINISHING
Fold the joint tape. Put some plaster along the entire length of the corner. Apply the tape, coat it and smooth.
An insulator (PSE) is added here between the beams to unify the bottom. Cut out the strips and align them along each beam.
Marble and cut off the excess at the end or even on the edges.
Coat walls to eliminate most defects.
Sand the surfaces with a finer grit mounted on a sander, if possible connected to a construction vacuum cleaner. Wear a dust mask for all sanding work.
Moldings, beams and woodwork can not be repainted directly without revealing their very dark original hue: cover them with an underlayment.
Before applying the finish (in two layers), protect the adjacent surfaces (beams, moldings...) with adhesive tape, to avoid stripping them afterwards.
Matt or glossy paint?
The aqueous phase paints are odorless and the tools are cleaned with water. Satin and shine are less dusty than matte, but the state of the support (walls, ceilings) must also be taken into account. A glossy painting accentuates the defects of a wall while the matte erases them. In case of imperfections, the satin is also to be avoided because the slightest shine draws the reliefs.
• Tarpaulin protection
• Sander and paper seals
abrasive (grains 80, 120, 240)
• Gypsum board (water repellent)
• Plaster based adhesive mortar
• Joint band
• Masking tape
• Acrylic underlay
• Acrylic interior paint
(for walls and ceilings)
• Disposable gloves, rags...