- A decoration on a fireplace
- Think about identifying the parts
- 1. Laying the slab and the sole
- 2 - Reassembling the coat
- 3. Construction of the hearth
- 4. Closing the top of the fireplace
- 5. Grouting the hearth
Repairing a mantel is always possible. But sometimes it's easier to replace it with another model. To make beautiful outbreaks it is also necessary that the conduit and the hearth are in good condition. Which was not the case here since the home had collapsed. To repair it, it was necessary to completely disassemble the chimney.
Cost: 180 € of supplies (excluding recovery chimney)
Time: 2 to 3 days
"Old" fireplaces are often composed of a masonry hearth and a reported cladding (here marble) that can be changed at any time.
Here, the old cladding has been replaced by a new white marble with a ceramic splay.
A decoration on a fireplace
Faced with the difficulty of connecting the mantel with the fireplace, it was decided to start the restoration by laying the marble mantle, followed by the panels of the splay, the fireplace being made last...
While in the simplest chimneys, we build the fireplace, we put the coat and connect the two with plaster bricks.
Think about identifying the parts
The jambs, mantel, tablet and hearthstone are made up of elements that are rarely interchangeable. Hence the interest of numbering or disassembling them into "blocks". This is the case here where the slab foyère, composed of eight marble slabs, could be recovered from a single block... Apart from this precaution, the rest of the site is traditional, if not the use of refractory materials (bricks and cement) for the home.
1. Laying the slab and the sole
Clean the entire surface of the hearth. Sponge Wet and trowel a bed of refractory mortar about 1 cm thick.
The bottom of the seat of the hearth being much lower than the floor, fill the difference with spaced refractory bricks.
Soak them in the water beforehand and drown them in refractory mortar.
Recovered from a single block, the slab is carefully cleaned of traces of the old seal.
Moistened, it is replaced on a bed of mortar.
Compensate for mortar the thickness of the tiles compared to the slab foyère.
After a quick calepinage, arrange the tiles of the sole from the center of the slab.
Raise the dimensions of the tiles at the ends of the back row to resize them at an angle, as here asymmetrically.
2 - Reassembling the coat
Present the sides of the mantle and wedge them against the side walls (summarily cleaned while waiting for the end of the work to repaint the room). Seal these elements with plaster.
Then wedge and seal the mantel transom.
Use refractory plaster for all stages of assembly.
Seal the sides of the splay on either side of the curtain frame (stalled from behind).
Let go before presenting the splay crossbar.
Place plaster on the top of the curtain frame and introduce the splay beam.
The bevelled sides of the crossbar are wedged on those of the vertical parts of the splaying.
The top of the crossbar is placed in abutment at the back of the mantle marble crossbar.
Consolidate the seal at the back and at the top, by spreading refractory plaster at the junction of the two crosspieces (splay and coat).
3. Construction of the hearth
Outside, resize the bricks on a level floor.
Place the brick on a wooden board or panel and keep the feet out of the path of the diamond disc.
Deposit a bed of refractory mortar to mount the first row of firebricks.
Finely cut the end bricks to fit the corner of the walls.
As soon as a row is finished, check the horizontality on the spirit level.
Adjust by tapping with a rubber mallet on the bricks to position them correctly.
Continue cross-joint mounting by shifting half a brick from one row to another. Also control the verticality with a small level for more maneuverability.
After climbing 3 to 4 rows, smooth the joints. The iron has the effect of digging slightly and makes them more aesthetic.
Remove the splashes of mortar without delay.
The connection to the conduit here involves tilting back the bricks of the bottom.
Re-cut bevel refractory bricks using a grinder.
The side walls are vertical to the hood.
Re-cut the bricks if necessary to finish 1 to 2 cm under the masonry in order to make a solid joint.
Voids remain between the inner and outer walls.
Fill with refractory mortar and falling brick or whole bricks.
Stop filling the voids at the top level of the side walls.
Spread lightly over the mantle beam without filling the central area or overflowing the shutter.
4. Closing the top of the fireplace
After drying, close the top of the hearth with cellular concrete tiles laid flat. Finish the plaster filling.
The plaster arase protrudes beyond the coat to seal the tablet. Present this one and center it by measuring its overflows.
Bridging the gaps flush with the sleeper of the coat with a little plaster smoothed finger for a seal very discreet (just lighter than the shade of this marble).
5. Grouting the hearth
Make the joints of the tiles composing the hearth hearth. To do this, mix the very liquid mortar so that it easily infiltrates the voids.
Allow the seal to be pulled out and remove the excess with an old cloth.
Finish cleaning and smoothing the joints with a sponge, without digging them.