- Security and savings
- Priority to safety
- Suitable for free forms
- Fix the turntables
- Lay and center beams and decks
- Block the stirrups
- Protect tile and liner
- Adjust the height of the cheeks
- Install the submerged structure
- Adjust the threaded rods
- Bring together the cheeks
- Sangler the beams
- Insert and fix the pivot
- Fix the patina opposite the motor
- Screw the case on the cheek
- The electrical connection
- Assemble the box
- Tighten the ends of the sleepers
- Place the stiffeners
- Insert the PVC panels
- Install stiffeners and panels
- Cut off excess threaded rods
- Rivet the hanging straps
- Immerse the first panel
- Assemble the panels
- Block the ends
- Adjust the depth of the counterweights
- Fasten the straps
- Wrap the shutter
- Program the automatic locking system
- Well locked device
- Secure the entire pool
Easy to put in place, this motorized shutter ensures safety, while keeping the water at a good temperature. In addition, it can adapt without work to a wide variety of ponds.
Cost: 13 000 €
Time: 2 days to two people
Equipment: angle grinder, jigsaw, hacksaw, drill, screwdriver, flat wrenches and hex key, spirit level, rivet pliers, straps.
The Federation of Pool Professionals (FFP) puts online practical information on two sites:
Security and savings
A motorized cover has several advantages. It ensures the safety of children and saves treatment products by limiting water pollution (leaves, dust...). In addition, it extends the bathing season by maintaining a higher water temperature.
Priority to safety
Responding to the safety standard NF P90-308, mandatory for buried private pools, the motorized shutter installed here is composed of a stainless steel structure that supports an electrically controlled winding axis (sector or solar panels). The whole is based on platinums simply placed on the beaches; weights ensure anchoring to the ground.
The submerged part of the cover (winding axis) is separated from the bathing area by a box made of PVC panels. Uncovered areas, such as part of the stairway on this site, must have an approved protection system.
Suitable for free forms
Cut on request, the shutter blades, made of expanded PVC, adapt to basins from 4m x 8m, including those of free form. Unlike conventional models, they require no glued tip to float and make them waterproof; unsinkable, they resist shocks and hail. In addition, they can be adjusted on site, using a fine-toothed saw. Only constraint: a depth of 1.50 m is necessary in line with the wall where the system is put in place. Finally, the installation of this type of motorized shutter requires no work on the structure of the existing pool or beach.
Fix the turntables
Fix the plates on each side of the pool, outside the copings.
Lay and center beams and decks
The two beams placed parallel on the decks are held with stirrups (e). Center in the whole width of the plates / beams. Later, metal cheeks will take place under these beams (j)
Block the stirrups
Make adjustments (lateral and longitudinal) using the threaded rods at the ends of the plates, using a spirit level. Permanently block the clamps.
Protect tile and liner
Because of their weight (about 30 kg each), the cheeks are delicate to handle. To prevent damage, protect tile and liner with thick felt.
Adjust the height of the cheeks
Hang the cheeks to the beams using threaded rods and stainless steel mounting flanges. The stems are used to adjust the height of the cheeks.
Install the submerged structure
Adjust the cheeks under the curbs, against the walls of the pool and begin to install the rest of the submerged structure.
Adjust the threaded rods
Check the plumb level with the level of the cheeks and adjust the height of the threaded rods with the lower nuts.
Bring together the cheeks
The cheeks are joined by a first cross member that participates in the structure of the box. They are equipped with bolts to fix the ends of the horizontal tube.
Sangler the beams
Slide two adjustable straps around the joists: they will support the winding axis during its fixing to the cheeks.
Insert and fix the pivot
Insert the pin in the axis and fix it with four stainless steel screws using an Allen key. The other end of the shaft (motor side) is pre-wired for power supply.
Fix the patina opposite the motor
On the opposite side to the motor, position the axle fixing patina on the pre-drilled cheek, then bolt.
Screw the case on the cheek
On the motor side, run the cable through the cable grommet of the cheek, then fit and screw the casing onto the cheek. It has a key that releases the winding axis in case of power failure. Connect the cable.
The electrical connection
It can be done before or after impoundment. The electrical box is delivered pre-assembled. Connect the motor cable to the electrical panel via a junction box.
A differential protection of 30 mA (not supplied) must be installed at the head of the line. This operation may be entrusted to an electrician.
A solar kit (optional) can replace the power supply by the public network.
Assemble the box
Adjust the fixing block (adjustable by a few centimeters) and check the parallelism of the winding axis with the walls of the pool (support wall and bottom) using a meter. Tighten the bolts.
Tighten the ends of the sleepers
Present the last crosspieces of the box (one high and two intermediate) between the cheeks. After having placed all sleepers (two in the oblique part and two in the vertical part of the cheeks), tighten their ends with bolts.
Place the stiffeners
Place the inclined stiffeners on the metal sleepers.
Insert the PVC panels
Insert the PVC panels of the box into the grooves, starting at one end. Adjust their spacing and attach them to the silicone glue.
Install stiffeners and panels
Install the stiffeners on the high and intermediate rails.
Lay the panels the same way as before (eight in total). The role of the caisson is to separate the bathing area from the technical part of the cover.
Cut off excess threaded rods
After checking the tightening of the nuts and bolts one last time, cut the excess part of the threaded rods with a grinder equipped with a metal disc (or a hacksaw).
Rivet the hanging straps
Rivet the tie-down straps on the first blade board (thanks to a dedicated notch) and on the winding axis.
Immerse the first panel
Screw the safety rail (the cover will pass between the rail and the box). Then immerse the first panel of blades and tie the elastic straps on the beams and around a cross. They keep the panel at rest around the winding axis.
Assemble the panels
Assemble the blade panels (wet at the front) by sliding (male and female edges). The blades for pools of free forms are numbered.
Block the ends
To eliminate any lateral movement that could degrade the liner or the blades, block with a screw at each end of the junctions of the panels (on the underside for aesthetic reasons).
Adjust the depth of the counterweights
Immerse the counterweights between the winding shaft and the pond wall. Adjust their depth so they do not rest on the cabinet casing.
Fasten the straps
Fasten the straps supporting the counterweights around the front beam. The counterweights will keep the flap tight against the shaft during winding.
Wrap the shutter
Wind the shutter as you go. Place the last boards of stairs. The last blade is pierced for the passage of the safety strap.
Program the automatic locking system
Before completely unrolling the shutter, program the automatic locking system for the winding and unwinding end positions (see instructions). Note that the standard requires the manual operation of the shutter, with a key inserted into the control box.
Well locked device
Gratings are immobilized on the beams by approved safety stirrups.
The locking device includes anchor bolts sealed to the beach (at a minimum of 20 cm from the water surface) and anti-tipping keys, both of which retain the safety straps attached to the last blade of the blanket.
Secure the entire pool
On this site, part of the access stairway to the pool can not be covered by the shutter. To comply with safety standards, the area is protected (before impoundment) by a wooden grating, placed on a frame made of stainless steel profiles (to do it yourself or done by a professional).