With rare exceptions, cast iron radiators have lived. Made of steel or cast aluminum, their weight has decreased considerably, they are compact and therefore easier to install.
The preferred installation near the openings is where the cold air enters, under the windows or nearby. These tips are valid for old joinery, less in the case of recent joinery, because of their insulating qualities.
The operating principle is simple. A copper pipe feeds hot water radiator from above, a second pipe recovers water that has passed through the radiator, from below. This water which has cooled in contact with the metal of the radiator then returns to the boiler, to be recharged again in calories and to be able again to heat the radiator.
- Bubble level
- Adjustable wrench
- How to fix the radiator
- Set up the taps, connect the pipes
How to fix the radiator
1. The number of fixings to be expected varies according to the weight and size of the radiator. As a general rule, two bases are positioned at the bottom, only one at the top.
The work starts with plotting, performed using a level. Drills and dowels should be adapted to the nature of the wall or partition.
Once this preparatory work is finished, screw the low bracket of the radiator.
2. Present the radiator by placing it on the lower consoles, then snap it into the top ones.
Depending on the weight of the radiator, it can be useful to be two for these manipulations. The spacer brackets are often adjustable, to possibly correct the verticality of the radiator.
3. Once the radiator is in place, check its horizontality using the bubble level. Give a slight slope, 2 to 3 mm per m, to the drain cock, then lock the consoles.
Set up the taps, connect the pipes
1. Use a wrench to turn on the supply valve, it can be positioned to the right or left of the radiator, depending on the model and / or site needs.
Do not forget to install a seal, and to wind Teflon on the thread, in order to eliminate any risk of leakage.
This type of valve is sufficient when the installation is controlled by a control unit. If not, direct your choice to a thermostatic valve.
2. Next install the trap located opposite the radiator supply valve. This accessory, when opened, allows the air to escape while the pipes are being filled with water. It also allows to purge the installation, when there is air and reduces the efficiency of the installation.
Close the trap when the water comes into the radiator. In the event of emptying, the trap must be opened, so that the water can be discharged through the low tap provided for this operation, the supply valve must also be closed in case of emptying.
3. Then place the drain connection at the bottom of the radiator, which must be connected to the "return" circuit of the central heating system. It can be screwed either to the right or to the left of the device.
4. On the opposite side to the radiator drain connection, then tighten the drain plug with the same precautions. This model has two outputs, one upper key, the other side, manual. This accessory is designed to facilitate the operation of draining the radiator.
5. When installing the central heating hydraulic circuit, install the different supply and exhaust pipes. Fasten them with Atlas collars.
The prior installation of the radiator equipped, then allows the exact positioning of the welded connection tees of these pipes.
They are screwed on, one on the radiator supply valve and the other on the exhaust connection.
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