- Practical advice
- Space saving
- Study the hopper
- Exceptional staircase
- Remove the old staircase to lighten the space
- Mark the anchor
- Alternative to plot the location
- Drill the hole of the axis on the ground
- Place the spacer and the first step on the axis
- Fix feet and walk on the ground
- Equip the feet
- Fix the second step by shifting it
- Tighten the nuts
- Check the verticality of the support
- Take steps to achieve the level
- Screw and firmly tighten the top of the axle
- Set up the finishing cover
- Camouflage the nuts
- Install the railing
In this duplex, the reduced space has led the owners to replace the right staircase with a more discreet model. To everyone.
Cost: 2,750 euros (supplies)
Time: 1 weekend
Equipment: percussion drill or drill, bubble level, socket wrench, circular saw.
The hopper: not the right to the error
The sides of the square hopper of a helical staircase must be equal to twice the effective length of the steps plus the diameter of the central core.
If, for example, the steps measure 70 cm, and the core 18 cm, the sides of the hopper will be (70 x 2) + 18 = 158 cm, at least. It is also possible to drill a round hopper with a diameter of 158 cm.
Station to the falls!
If a handrail is not planned (as here), there is the question of liability in the event of an accident. In fact, that of the owner is no less engaged with a ramp than without. But if it is an architect who prescribes, or a man of the art who performs the pose, he can be held responsible if a ramp is not put in place.
At the current price of the habitable square meter, any area gained is good to take, especially if you do not have the opportunity to enlarge. This is why the right staircase was condemned for the benefit of another, whose footprint was less important. By taking this decision, it is almost 3 m2 which have been recovered. In the room, this extra volume significantly reduces the space. In return, access to the floor is less comfortable than with the original staircase.
Study the hopper
When you want to install a staircase, the first thing to consider is the hopper, that is to say the opening between the two levels. If this one does not exist yet, plan it according to the chosen staircase. The manufacturer will give you the indication for its size and location depending on where the start march will be.
In this case, the hopper is already pierced. We must adapt to this constraint. Planned for a straight staircase with a quarter turn on the last three steps, it is narrow. Indeed, the hopper of a spiral staircase is usually square (see box) so that users do not bump into the ceiling while climbing the last degrees.
Here, the choice fell on a model whose rotation takes place on just more than half a turn, so less than a classic helical. This of course affects the height of the steps, to the extent that there is less.
To determine the distance between the steps, it is necessary to know the available height between the lower floor and that of the floor, including coatings. Still in our case, the height of the steps exceeds in the end largely that traditionally recommended (17 to 19 cm), since it reaches 22 cm. But the aesthetics prevails in this project and an additional walk would have made the installation impossible.
The difficulties do not stop there, because it is necessary to preserve a sufficient passage to cross a door which is under the staircase in question. In other words, the last steps must necessarily be above the door so as not to hinder the passage. In addition, the starting step must be directed towards the room. A real puzzle!
Finally, the last constraint, the width of the hopper does not allow to pass elements of more than 60 cm wide.
The search for a model meeting all these criteria was not simple and required the intervention of a specialist of the staircase to find it (Escarmor, 2,750 euros TTC). To note, the realization of a model to measure, even industrial, requires several weeks of waiting!
Remove the old staircase to lighten the space
The old staircase was very present visually in the room. In addition, it occupied an important place (nearly 3 m2 plus clearances). Above all, he cut the living room in two. After a first attempt (remove the ramp), his presence was still embarrassing. The decision was made to remove the partition against which it was leaning and replace it with a spiral staircase, lighter in appearance.
Mark the anchor
The piercing point of the axis is traced to the outer point of a square 60 cm side located in the corner of the two walls. The staircase must also fit into the hopper.
Alternative to plot the location
An even simpler method is to place two square steps against the walls, and to trace the location of the core through their recess.
Drill the hole of the axis on the ground
The floor is drilled to the diameter of the metal post at the end of the axis. If the hole is too wide, a little mortar will make up the difference. In the case of a turntable, trace the location of the 4 holes.
Place the spacer and the first step on the axis
The first spacer is threaded on the axis from above. Then it's the start of the walk.
Fix feet and walk on the ground
Both feet are screwed from below. The step is adjusted according to the final position, previously drawn on the ground.
Equip the feet
The feet are crossed at their full height by a threaded rod a little shorter than a walking height. It has a nut and a washer at each end.
Fix the second step by shifting it
Before the second step, the central spacer is similarly put in place. The pre-punched outlets allow the realization of a staircase turning on the right or, as here, on the left.
Tighten the nuts
With a pipe wrench or ratchet, the nuts are partially tightened to provide temporary strength. They will be clamped definitively after control of the positioning.
Check the verticality of the support
Once the steps are connected together, the stairs are adjusted vertically to the bubble level. If necessary, it can turn a little around its axis to find the best position.
Take steps to achieve the level
The staircase in final position and well wedged, the cut of the bearing is traced under the landing step. After cutting, it will be screwed on a pegged support cleat.
Screw and firmly tighten the top of the axle
The axis is terminated by a thread on which a nut is screwed. It is he who will ensure the maintenance of the whole. The tightening must be firm and checked after a few days of use.
Set up the finishing cover
The wooden finishing cover is screwed onto the threaded rod. After a few days of use, check the tightness. It's after that you can paint or varnish it.
Camouflage the nuts
Wooden plugs are provided to conceal the nuts of the walking feet. in order to avoid any protrusion, the cladding can be clogged with putty, then the finishing coat.
Install the railing
The work ends with a railing made to measure by a metalworker. Here the wooden plug serves as a support. His plate is screwed to the end of the shaft of the stairs.