- Simple design
- Stability, lightness and elegance
- 1 TRACÉ OF ASSEMBLIES
- 2 MACHINING THE DETAILS
- 3 HINGES INSTALLATION
- 4 FINISHING AND ASSEMBLING THE ELEMENTS
- Make a drawer cabinet
Under crawling volumes are numerous and often difficult to develop. But they represent a great space to make custom closets!
Cost: 580 €
Time: 3 days
Equipment: paint roller, truss, square, square tip, screwdriver, hammer, drill press or drill with vertical guide, flat drill bits Ø 30/35 mm, drill-driver, laminator, circular saw
In this vast child's room, the storage of clothes and toys must be done quickly and well! This is the purpose of this large closet that adjusts to the angle formed by the structural members and the crawling. For convenience, the furniture is not closed at the back: its back is constituted by the partition. Reduced in depth, the top of the furniture is, meanwhile, adjusted to the slope of the rampant. It receives a plinth which serves to ensure the junction with the ceiling.
The furniture manufactured here consists of five elements placed on the floor: two wardrobes and three shelves each with three shelves. The sides (six in total) are separated by shelves and bottoms (of the same length).
The assembly is assembled using slats and some steps are reinforced by screwing. If the investment in a slat mill is too expensive, a screw connection may be perfectly suitable... But the assembly will be more difficult.
Stability, lightness and elegance
The five surface-mounted doors are equipped with straight invisible hinges (right-angle door) and semi-bent (the other doors are double-sided on the same side). Invisible hinges with brake avoid the installation of latches and allow to adjust the plumb of the doors after the installation (practical for doors of this dimension).
The choice of material was on three-ply spruce panels, light and stable. To preserve the natural shade, it is sufficient to apply a hard oil or varnish. But three-ply solid wood remains expensive.
To divide the note by two, it is better to opt for medium, heavier, but perfectly stable (ideal for a lacquered finish).
• 3 ply panels spruce 19 mm thick.
• 12 invisible hinges with semi-bent brake (for middle / twin)
• 3 invisible hinges with straight brakes (for angle installation)
• 15 snap-on bases • 5 round shell handles Ø 30 mm in matt chrome-plated brass
• Paint for wood (5 liters)
• Heads man 40 mm
• Wood screws 3.5 x 20/4 x 50 mm
• Vinyl glue and superglue glue
1 TRACÉ OF ASSEMBLIES
After drawing a plan, establish your debit list. A debit label, affixed here by the supplier on each cut panel, facilitates the reception check.
On the 9 shelves, 6 sides and 5 bottoms, trace the centering marks (lamelleuse). Mark the location of the cuts, spaced 15-20 cm apart, about 5 cm. edges.
Instead of measuring each time the gap between the nicks of the shelves, make a rule (with a fall) on which you trace the marks to be carried on the faces of the panels.
Only the bottom of the wardrobes is cut at an angle, according to the angle formed by the frame. To facilitate the positioning of the laminator, cut the notches before cutting.
2 MACHINING THE DETAILS
Lay the shelves flat on the panels forming the sides and align them on the layout of their location. Hold them by clamps. On the edges, begin to machine the slits for slats n° 20.
Before loosening the shelves, place the lamellae in the upright position and cut the corresponding notches on the sides of the unit, thus limiting the risk of error by using the same mark.
To obtain a precise notch, plate the machine against the edge of the shelf. Less than the sides, the shelves will be set back from the front, but aligned at the back.
To cut the base of the sides accurately and easily, screw two square panels (darker panels) and tighten each side against the vertical panel with clamps. Machine the cuts.
3 HINGES INSTALLATION
The sides will be cut with a circular saw (or jigsaw) to be placed under the crawling: trace the same line of cut on each side to the false square.
Draw the drilling axes of the hinges. For each door (134 cm high), count three hinges (at a different height from the shelves).
Drill the cuvettes on each door (drill press with Ø 35 mm flat-bottom bit). Always work on a stable and solid support (here, a panel placed on maids).
The centering of the wick can be done on the fly or by positioning the door (cut by your supplier) compared to a guide mounted on the table reported. You can also use a conventional drill with a vertical guide.
On either side of the bowl, draw (here with the truscan) the axis of the fixing screws of the plate.
Dig the screws (3.5 x 20 mm) at the square tip to facilitate centering and penetration into the wood.
Clip (or screw according to the models) the bases on the folded hinges. Then open them and present the door against the corresponding side by placing a shim of 1.5 mm (clearance).
Screw the bases. Depending on the type of installation (corner or median / twin door, 2 doors on the same side), use straight or semi-bent hinges.
Invisible hinges are adjustable and easily removable. Placed on the stem of the hinge, a screw makes it possible to adjust the plumb of the door. To disengage it, press on the lever located behind the base to be clipped.
4 FINISHING AND ASSEMBLING THE ELEMENTS
the door on a wedge martyr to avoid splinters out of wick. After painting, the two parts are joined with a superglue glue net.
Sand the surfaces with the machine, then soften the edges by hand (120 grit abrasive wound on a shim). Apply 2 or 3 coats of paint or satin varnish.
Mount the sides, bottoms and shelves; these are not at the same height from one compartment to another, and are screwed through the sides. Attach the top panels with man's head tips (40 mm), driven in with a nail gun.
Make a drawer cabinet
The large closet is complemented by another functional layout, including a drawer cabinet. To design it, just use the same type of material and finishes, and to provide melamine panels 8 mm thick to achieve the bottom of the drawers.
The assembly of the drawers (panels of 19 mm thickness) is made with slats. Draw the markers (shim as a template), then mill the sides in the vertical position in the bracket assembly.
Mark the landmarks on the interior facades and backs. Nick the pieces, glue the notches with vinyl glue, place 2 strips # 20 and tighten the assembly.
Trace (truscan), drill (Ø 4 mm), mill holes in holes and screw (3.5 x 25 mm) the melamine panels (bottom of drawers).
Along the sides and against the edges of the bottom, place the roller slides: drill and screw to maintain the bottom and the sliding mechanism.
Draw the (strictly parallel) axes of the drawer rails, set back from the front (20 mm). Secure the rails with 3.5 x 20 mm screws.
Make a first blank assembly of the boxes and drawers. Place the facades by stalling them so as to obtain a 3 mm peripheral clearance.
Screw the drawer handles.