- Necessary material
- Three types of blind
- Total protection of the canvas: the storage box
- Injection sealing
- Locating fasteners
- Sealing turntables
- Electrical connection
- Tip for the handyman
- Installation of the awning and the wind sensor
An awning protects a sun-drenched terrace and the room in its extension by creating a cooler area flush with the façade. Driven remotely, this model is equipped with a sensor that allows it to close in case of wind.
- Awning blind ("Vogue" model Storistes de France, 5.96 x 4 m with winding valance and wind sensor "Éolis" by Somfy)
- Threaded rod, nuts and washers M12
- Injection seal kit
- Thin chute and dowels
- Electrical conductor (1.5 mm2) and adhesive tape
- White electric cable (3 x 1,5 mm2)
The main interest of a awning is to offer shade on command. On the other hand, when the sun plays hide-and-seek with the clouds or when it is welcome, as in winter, protection is no longer necessary. The blind, his arms and his canvas can then be stored in a chest, like here.
Three types of blind
There are three types of blind:
• the monobloc model: manual, without trunk and compact, it is suitable for laying under the roof.
• the semi-integral awning: it has a PVC or aluminum box, which fully protects the fabric from the elements.
• Integral boot blind: made of aluminum and hermetic (the model installed here), it protects the fabric as well as the structure against the weather. It is more expensive but suitable for large areas to protect (up to 4 m). Before placing an order, it is necessary to note the length and the width of the terrace (or the balcony), as well as the available height of the wall on which the awning is fixed. The more the canvas must project away from the wall (4 m forward, for example), the more the fi xation must rise.
Total protection of the canvas: the storage box
Manufacturers have designed skins (called trunk or cassette) for their high-end blinds (see the purchase guide, System D n° 810, July 2013). Thus, in the closed position, the fabric completely disappears, as the armature (operating arm, load bars and winding). The set covers large dimensions: a blind like the one installed on this site can measure up to 11.82 m long and 4 m deep (or "advanced"). Its inclination is adjustable from 5 to 45°.
The installation of a blind can not be improvised because of the settings it requires. Regardless of the length of the blind, its mounting plates must be on the same plane, adding shims if necessary. It is also necessary to guarantee to these plates anchors of a sturdiness solid, by envisaging threaded rods M12. Depending on the nature of the masonry, they will be laid with chemical anchors (solid masonry) or with nylon screens (Ø 20 mm) and a two-component injection-sealing resin (hollow masonry). Available in trading, these anchors do not expand, which allows hole spacings close enough. Dry in a few tens of minutes, the injection sealing resin makes it possible to immediately install the fixing plates. The awning is installed about half an hour later.
- Using a meter, locate the center of the bay at the lintel level.
- Carried up with a spirit level, this mark is the vertical alignment axis that will center the blind.
- The side of the awning is tilted to the side, locate the arm brackets away from the center axis - align with the wall mark.
- From the center mark, transfer the dimensions to the desired height with a cord or a rotating laser level.
- The height of fixing takes into account the slope (about 30 \%) and the advance of the blind.
- Present the mounting plates starting with the center one.
- Check their verticality and point in pencil the fixing holes.
- Drill the holes with the perforator (here the masonry is hollow).
- Introduce the sieves.
- Push them down to their collar.
- Then inject the resin with the spray gun.
- Be careful to avoid product reflux by placing a finger next to the nozzle.
- Insert the threaded rods one after the other, leaving only the required length (here 20 mm).
- Immediately remove excess resin overflowing around the hole.
- Check and tighten the nuts of the central mounting plate moderately: it must be able to shift slightly to reach the required height before locking the fasteners.
- All turntables must be on the same plane.
- If necessary, slide the shims behind the corresponding plates.
- After having verified at the laser level that the plates are all at the same height and horizontal, lock their nuts with the socket wrench.
- Knowing the exact location of the blind on the front, drill from the inside the hole required for the power cable.
- Drill the wall perpendicular to the nearest socket (flush with the baseboard) to get the cable through the bottom of the flush-mounting box.
- Fix the corresponding chute lengths.
- Unwrap the cable 5 to 8 cm.
- Strip off the conductors for 1 cm.
- Twist their souls and introduce them into the terminals of the socket.
Tip for the handyman
- At the top of the chute (under the drilled hole at the start), attach the end (unsheathed) of the cable to an improvised wire puller: wire, passed through the front wall.
- Pull the cable and close the chute.
Installation of the awning and the wind sensor
- Lay (two or three people) the awning on its fixings.
- Tilt it backwards to first engage the arm supports in the upper groove of the decks.
- With a spirit level or a cleat, check that the shade is centered on the bay.
- Tighten the setscrews so that their heads are flush with the lower wing of the decks.
- Connect with a domino the conductors of the power cable with those coming from the power supply boxes.
- Adjust the inclination (ideally at 17° or 30%) from one side to the other.
- Check the horizontality of the load bar.
- Lock the setting.
- Put the power back into the socket circuit that provides power.
- After gluing the wind sensor base to the back of the load bar, open it to insert the batteries.
- Follow the procedure to program the sensor.
- Reinsert the wind sensor into its hood and re-seat it on its base.
- The installation is now almost complete.
- All that remains is to clip the upper and lower trim profiles of the boot.
- To stretch the fabric, remove the cheeks at the ends of the load bar.
- Then screw back the stopper into the leg of the cheek.