- Practical tip
- The material needed for laying a washbasin
- Laying the sanitary
- Evacuation and connections
- The installation of the basin
- The evacuation
- Arrivals of water
- Finishing: laying the seal
Do not take your feet in the washbasin's column anymore! Instead, play the card of modernity by taking advantage of the shapes and materials of the new sanitary facilities. For example, this "design" model, whose thermoformed glass blends harmoniously with the chrome and copper of its equipment.
The assembly of the discharge pipe is carried out by soldering with tin, by means of a torch operating with butane gas. This requires tinning the ends to be joined before soldering them permanently. To do this, they are first rubbed with the emery cloth and then coated with a stripping flux. The pieces are then heated uniformly and, as soon as the color of the copper changes, the solder (in coil) is presented on it. The diffusion is superficial and it is enough of a stroke of rag passed quickly to keep only a thin film.
After tinning, the pipe is fully assembled to weld the joints one after the other. The entire fitting is heated to flame until it reaches a dark red color, then the tin wire is pointed at the joint to spin capillary all the way around. The connection is immediately wiped off with a cloth. For the evacuation enhancement, the copper is polished with a special paste and covered with a thin layer of metal varnish, aerosol.
If the pedestal sink hides the piping, it does not facilitate cleaning around and its appearance lacks originality too often. Unlike washbasins and basins, the possibilities of more extensive development. The first being placed on furniture and the second hung on the wall.
A very attractive blue, the model installed (reference "design style" collection "Fluensis": € 567 Leroy Merlin) is characterized by its slender shape that minimizes congestion. While offering a large surface area. It is installed on two chrome consoles matching the towel bar that joins them to the front, as well as mixer and siphon.
The apparent evacuation is made of copper tube Ø 32 mm, finished with a presser foot. It joins the wastewater column by passing through an existing cast iron tube (internal Ø 40 mm) sealed in the thickness of the masonry and sawn flush with the wall. The hot and cold water supply is provided by Ø 12 mm copper tubes from a water heater placed in the kitchen. Finished each with a threaded (and welded) connection at 12 x 17, these lines are left on standby and thus temporarily closed by plugs.
The material needed for laying a washbasin
The vanity top comes with its drain plug, the two consoles, the towel bar and hardware for assembly. The mixer tap, its two feed hoses and the siphon are purchased separately.
The bung is in two parts: an inner grid and an outer body with the dump lever. They are screwed into each other, on each side of the drain hole of the basin, with the interposition on the underside of a Neoprene gasket.
To complete the seal, the orifice may be coated on its periphery (before tightening) with translucent silicone sealant.
The equipment is complemented by a plastic corrugated pipe to connect the overflow grid, already in place, to the entrance on the bung.
Laying the sanitary
The two hoses are first connected to the base of the mixing valve, inserting an O-ring seal and then passed through the opening of the wash basin provided for this purpose. The valve is put in place and maintained from below with its retaining flange, equipped with a Neoprene seal. Fixing is completed by tightening the central screw with a pipe wrench.
For practical reasons, before fixing the vanity to the wall, it is essential to assemble the two consoles. This is done using chrome screws, associated with plastic spacers. The heads of the screws are embedded in the thickness of the plane, tightening just enough to avoid splitting the glass. The whole is stiffened by the towel bar, fixed at each end by a screw (also chrome).
At the chosen location, a horizontal line is drawn in the felt at 85 cm from the ground, thus materializing the rear edge of the basin. After marking the exact middle, the appliance is presented to identify the anchor points of the consoles. For this operation, it is better to be two because one must at the same time control the upgrade...
Fasteners are made with stainless steel hexagon socket screws (supplied) and plastic plugs Ø 8 mm. An already large diameter, which requires pre-drilling holes in the tile with a smaller drill. By drilling at slow speed, the percussion is systematically disengaged to cross the tile then it is re-engaged as soon as the masonry support is reached.
Evacuation and connections
After having screwed the siphon under the bung, the evacuation pipe is made by means of welded connections. From the siphon, we find: a horizontal tube, a 90° elbow, a vertical tube, another 90° elbow, a short tube and finally a 45° elbow connected by a small sleeve to the presser foot. This is extended by a fall of hot-bent copper tube, which leads to the opening of the wall to the cast iron column.
Finally, a disgorging plug is installed in front of the crowbar, and the remaining space between the latter and the cast iron tube is filled by a quick cement seal. It remains to connect the hoses to the water inlets, screwing their threaded ring on the connections pending.
The installation of the basin
- The emptying system must be mounted first.
- Equip the bung body with its Neoprene gasket, then screw it under the basin to join it to the inner part that carries the grille.
- Connect the two flexible hoses to the base of the mixer, fitted with an O-ring, and pass them through the drilled hole in the middle of the plane.
- By handling the sanitary carefully.
- Place the support gasket and the half-moon flange on the underside, then tighten the central screw with a pipe wrench to secure the whole.
- Take the opportunity to connect the overflow pipe to the bung.
- Assemble the basin to the consoles and present the assembly at its location to locate the anchor points. If you are alone, provide a shoring that will facilitate the level adjustment.
- Given the 8 mm diameter of the ankles, first make smaller pilot holes.
- Drill at low speed, knocked out to cross the tile, then reclosed to finish in the concrete.
- After pegging, fix the brackets with the stainless screws provided by the manufacturer. As these have a recessed hex head, a suitable Allen wrench is required to tighten them.
- As evacuation is made to measure with Ø 32 mm copper tube and elbow fittings, some elements can be prepared separately.
- Prime the parts to be assembled before final assembly.
- Once the pieces are nested, heat the fitting to a dark red color.
- Then point the solder wire that will wiggle around the junction.
- Wipe immediately with a damp cloth.
- The presser foot retains a free entrance on which a disgorging plug is mounted. The remaining space between the copper tube and the cast iron wall penetration is filled with prompt cement.
- For a finish consistent with the rest of the installation, the exhaust pipe is finely sanded to the emery cloth and then polished to the polishing paste.
- A varnish for metals will protect it from oxidation.
- Connect the bung to the siphon, inserting a flat Neoprene gasket, and tighten taking care not to mark the ring.
- For more safety, it is possible to wrap a piece of fabric.
Arrivals of water
- Connect the hose ends from the mixer tap to the hot and cold water outlets coming out of the wall, 12 x 17 thread.
- Use two wrenches: the 17 mm flat prevents the solder connection from turning.
Finishing: laying the seal
- Between plan and tiling, place a line of silicone sealant, smoothed with a finger soaked in soapy water.
- Previously, for a flawless finish, mark the joint with two strips of masking tape.